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Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by chrisg, Nov 4, 2018.

  1. Nov 4, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Hey All: Just got my first willy's in October, and trying to get some things figured out. It's a 47, with a 67 Dauntless I think, SM420, DANA 20, DANA 30 front with locker, and DANA 44 with true trac..

    Issue number one: Have a bad exhaust leak I think. It has headers, that are beat up, and looking to change out. What is recommended ? It has saginaw power steering.

    Issue two: distributor cap (DELCO) not sure if in correct location, as the manual shows the points being reachable . The window is on bottom near power steering pump, and book shows on top... I put cap same position as I took it off. Any Ideas?

    Issue three: Fuel pump. It has an electric in line, as well as the one on the block. It left me stranded last week, couldn't get any flow. I changed all three in line fuel filters, this one has two tanks, along with a pressure regulator by the carburator. Filter doesn't get full, sometimes close, then barely any. This is strange to me.

    Four: wiper motor.. It has the Bosch bottom mounted wipers. The driver side motor works fine as installed, but the passenger doesn't. I removed both, and they work. They didn't have wiper arms installed, so I purchased new ones. It has toggle switches running the wipers, not the switch. Is the connector behind power? I have two wires that were taped up in front of dash. And trying to figure what size wiper blades as well... I have a 3A windshield.

    thanks ,

    Chris
     
  2. Nov 4, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    Welcome from Oklahoma.
    Here goes:
    1) There are block huggers available at Novak and other places, or a couple of sources for outside the frame headers, Advanced adapters and Hedman. on my Saginaw conversion I used a rear dump manifold from a 70s Buick 231 on the drivers side. This topic is covered well here:Saginaw Power Steering (pics) Please Add Yours!

    2) you can reposition the distributor body and cap, just make sure the rotor is still pointing the same direction an the plug wires are in the original clocking, ie the if you pull the rotor out while it is at the #1 post, make sure it is still at the number one post when you put it back in.

    3)the AC mechanical fuel pumps are notorious for not lasting long, they are made in China, and ethanol kills them slowly.

    4) I got nothing for you here, but others will chime in.
     
  3. Nov 4, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Thanks for your reply homersdog. I checked out the Novak headers, holy crap! They are pricey. Still probably leaning that way because the stock manifolds are probably not too good and probably 100 each.

    I tried to re position the cap today and it won't work. Kind of not understanding what you mean .

    It's the original pump, and it's got two ports. I've heard on other posts people been having issues with their fuel pumps.

    Thank you,

    Chris
     
  4. Nov 5, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    I probably made it more confusing than it needs to be. Leave the distributor body and cap in the hole, but loosen the clamp nut. Take a picture of the plug wire positions or make a sketch. remove the plug wires, rotate the distributor where you want it. put the plug wires back in the same position. When you rotate the distributor, the rotor will not rotate, so it is in the original position. The plug wires should go back in the same position relative to the rotor. for example, if wire #3 was at the 9 o'clock position, it still goes back in the 9 o'clock position, Not the original hole it was in.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  5. Nov 5, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Homers dog, wouldn't it be too much advanced if the distributor was moved? I first tried a different version of the cap,but it didn't match with what I had.. is the only difference is you can't get to the points? The next time they need replacement I'll be changing to pertronix.

    Chris
     
  6. Nov 5, 2018
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok Sponsor

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    There is no advance, the plug wires stay in the same position relative to the rotor, ONLY the distributor body and cap are rotating. Look at some Dauntless pictures all over this site and compare them to your engine. I have HEI on mine now otherwise i would take a picture to show you. With a Delco remy distributor typically the window point towards the front.
     
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  7. Nov 6, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Thx Homer's. I don't get it I guess.. appreciate your help

    Chris
     
  8. Nov 6, 2018
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    The odd-fire is a bit different when it comes to distributor clocking.

    The engine rotates twice for each completer rotation of the distributor. There is a firing order that is controlled by the cam timing, and a rotation direction for the rotor, so the wires can only be in one order, say 1-2-3-4-5-6 (not the actual firing order). With cylinder #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor must be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire, then all the rest of the cylinders fire in the order of plug wires going in the direction of rotation (clockwise IIRC). You can put the distributor in ("stab it") at any clocking wrt the engine block, as long as the rotor points at the #1 wire at TDC of #1's compression stroke.

    Here's where it's different. A "normal" even fire distributor fires at equal intervals, so with 360 degrees in the complete rotation, the engine fires every 60 degrees. Not so with an odd-fire engine. It fires at 45 degrees, then 75, and so forth. 45-75-45-75-45-75. Instead of six possible locations for wire #1, you only have three. You have to have the right firing angle between each cylinder, because that change in firing angle with every cylinder is built in to the engine and the distributor.

    Having never owned one of these engines, I don't know how you identify the location for #1 by looking at the cap. Someone here should know that.
     
    chrisg likes this.
  9. Nov 6, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    I have a bunch of pictures of this on my home computer...see if I can post when I get home (nothing on the internet seems to help right now). I think there are a couple of positions that the delco distributor will fit (well it fits everywhere, but only a couple that provide easy access to the points window and fit the vac can) - the one that works best for me...the delco cap 'window' should face forward toward the radiator at about 11 oclock, and the vac can will also point forward and a bit toward the passenger side at 1 oclock. So you may have to pull the entire distributor up and out of the timing gear and then rotate everything. After setting it back in, you may have to move the plug wires to different posts (keeping them in the same order of course). #1 post would normally be the post at the window.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
  10. Nov 6, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Here is a pic...might help give you some orientation...the window and vac can are toward the radiator and plug #1 is the post immediately above the window. the plugs go in order 1-6 as you go around the dist cap ccw from #1.

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Nov 6, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    I got it... that is the first cap I bought. The one I have has the window centered between two terminals...

    So what you're saying is have number one at tdc, remove the distributor and clock where you can get the points.. right? The only thing is go in firing order clockwise... I'll send a picture of my jeep tomorrow..

    Thanks
    Chris
     
  12. Nov 6, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Timer, appreciate your help.. I don't really understand these engines, but got a service manual and been reading..
    Thanks,
    Chris
     
  13. Nov 6, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Be careful...here is a thread discussing the two different caps and the one with the centered window is not for the v6 (although it seems to pop up in a number of part searches). see here:
    Distributor differences for the 225

    You should have a little indexing notch/key in the dist housing/cap - I found the one with the centered window could be made to work, but did not fit that index notch appropriately. For a few bucks, the appropriate cap may make your life much easier.
     
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  14. Nov 6, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    I though I had posted some pics of these differences when I went through this on mine...but here is another thread that brings up the differences in the two caps...it also suggests the cap with the post above the window is correct:
    Passenger side runs rougher than drivers side ...
     
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  15. Nov 7, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Oh crap! That probably explains why it runs kinda rough.. that means that the PO had the wrong cap on as well, and hes a shop foreman..... I did buy the other cap first, and it was 30 bucks at napa. This one was about 10 bucks... gonna order the correct one today.. thanks for all your advice

    Chris
     
  16. Nov 7, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Its rr189 napa number.. 32 bucks.. the other is rr184, and that's the early cap.. 15 bucks.. what a pain. Anyone need the early cap? Haha
    Chris
     
  17. Nov 7, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Ok, now I'm really confused. I got the other cap and it doesn't fit.. the hold down bolts don't line up.. there's a number on the breaker plate.. 1110322... the napa book shows the other cap for 110376 I think. Anyone know what's going on?

    Chris
     
  18. Nov 7, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Post a pic if your caps...
     
  19. Nov 8, 2018
    chrisg

    chrisg New Member Sponsor

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    Having trouble posting a picture. Update: I changed to other cap (window next to number one) wouldn't fire.... this morning, I moved each wire one over and fired up.

    Cap window still at bottom, what should I check out next?
    Thanks, Chris
     
  20. Nov 8, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    You have a timing light? Also a dwell meter or feeler gauge to check point gap. One big advantage of the delco cap with window is the ability to adjust the point gap with everything in place (technically you can adjust the point gap with the engine running - but generally that puts your hand pretty close to the moving fan, and you can accidentally touch a 'hot' spot and get a good shock with the allen wrench).

    Here is a way to post pics on this forum for free....http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/posting-photos-via-the-ecj5-media-gallery.78830/
    Otherwise you have to use a remote hosting location and link them in - many of us use Beaming Pix as it was created by one of our own (Focker) to help us out, but costs a small fee. I do highly recommend beaming Pix.
     

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