Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Johns1967CJ5, Jan 12, 2019.
Those damned machine shop people ..... always slowing down such a detailed Build !
nice, looks good
Well after yanking my rebuilt motor back out and fixing the machine shops mistake (put cam bearing in backwards) shes back in, looking pretty again. Runs like a new motor, great oil pressure, no smoke after break In and a new clutch installed. On to the next phase
Due to the close proximity to the fuel line I heat wrapped the exhaust
Good job on the engine rebuilt. But as for the radiator shroud it wont be very effective. I would close up the side on the shroud to the radiator. If not done the air will be draw from those opening and will not go trought the radiator.
Its the factory shroud ?
I looked back through your pictures to see what Jonyboy was talking about. Factory shroud but not the original radiator. There is a gap around the edge that could be closed up with a strip of rubber. Along the top there is core exposed that is offering little cooling. I would run it first to see if coolant temp is an issue. Project is beautiful.
I see.....this is why this forum rocks....
My latest break and fix on the truck from hell....opened the hood and the tab for the support arm was broke off
Made this up
Works like a charm
If that radiator is sized as a replacement you probably won't have trouble. My wagon doesn't even have a shroud and it never ran hot. I will get one eventually but more for the safety and it looks better with a shroud.
Driving it around today on some side streets. Still having an issue with the trans , will only go into 2nd when running, I have to shut the truck off to get it in any other gear. Clutch is disengaging. But if I remove the rear drive shaft it shifts fine ?? Consensus is a tight pilot bearing
That's a new one to me. How much free play is there when you push the pedal?
Hey, John, someone stole the bed of your truck. Looks very nice.
Less than an inch
Seems like even with the drive shaft off that 1st and reverse would still grind if the pilot bushing was tight enough to make the input shaft turn no matter what.
Yeah. It's a mystery I'm trying to solve before pulling the transmission out again
Have you ruled out a clutch linkage problem? Have you had someone push down on the pedal while you watched it all move? Arm moving far enough to fully disengage clutch?
Yes. Been thru that. Clutch disc come right off flywheel
Darn. Sounds like it's time to take the top off of the transmission. I think I'd take the coil wire off so it won't start, push the clutch in, crank the engine over and watch the input shaft.
Of course make sure it's in neutral before you take the cover off.
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