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Manual Locking Hubs For The Rear Axle?

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by 67jeepster, Oct 26, 2019.

  1. Oct 26, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    I’ve searched a bit but I’m not getting the full answers that I’m hoping for. My wife and I are thinking of getting a motorhome and using a dingy. I know I can flat tow my 2015 JKU Wrangler with no problem. Question is on our 67’ Jeepster... tranny in gear tcase neutral... still might be an issue... I’m not taking disconnecting the drive shaft every day. I called DTS here in Michigan they think I need a larger/newer rear axle to put the locker in. Anyone have any thoughts?? Also thinking of disc brakes in the front as I do the rear. Swap out front and rear axles for “new reliability” ? Thoughts/experiences? We would tow the 67 instead once in awhile.

    It’s a very stock 67 and as one person said.. “oh look he has the wimpy axles” that was way back at a Midwest willys meet in Michigan btw lol

    Thank you in advance!
    Tony
     
  2. Oct 26, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    Does the jeepster run a D20? I’m not sure the D20 has the same possible oil starvation problem as the D18s can purportedly have when flat towed.

    as for rear locking hubs, that’s what you can use to drive your hubs , and therefore tires, when you make a full float conversion on a d44. Do a search for more information on that.

    people who ridicule your axles are ignorant. You can put any locker you like in your that come in 19 spline and 30. The shop wants to make money off you, a lot. If your d44 is a flanged center mounted carrier, you probably have 30 spline axles and any locker will bolt in.
     
    RATTYFLATTY likes this.
  3. Oct 26, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    Just went out and checked. I compared it to a chart and it looks like a Dana 30. Most of you guys have big rear ends... doesn’t sound right Change that to Dana 44’s... lol posting a not so good pick
     

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  4. Oct 26, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    I thought it was the D20 that has the issue & D18's are ok? :confused:

    Flat towing has been discussed here so often people have been known to develop a rash when they see the thread title- use the search function & you'll be bombarded with posts.
     
  5. Oct 26, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    Best I can get of the tcase at the moment. When I was a kid we towed it from Michigan to Nevada and back and there wasn’t an issue... lucky??? That was 1969. (now I don’t want to ask for a headache)
     

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  6. Oct 26, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    I have read the flat towing threads, general consensus seemed to be, in gear/tcase neutral
    But don’t go to far to fast and best to unbolt the drive shaft... I remember us doing the first two, but the latter... not so much. Lol
    If it’s behind an RV I won’t be able to really see, hear or feel much of anything that is happening back there until there’s smoke....
    If it’s not an issue then great, if I can/should put manual hubs like the front on also great. If I need a Dana 44 instead of the D30 then I’m good with that also.
    This winter she’s getting a new top and cleaned up she been sitting way to long and I’m not happy about that but life happens....
     
  7. Oct 26, 2019
    Focker

    Focker That's what I do, I know things and I fix stuff. Staff Member 2019 Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    I could be wrong (usually am), but I think there's more to it than that otherwise everyone would have rear floating axles.

    It sounds like you know about the requirements for flat towing, but here's a quick easy to read guide.

    Flat Towing Guide
     
  8. Oct 26, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    The Dana 18 has both outputs down in the oil so by having the Transmission I'm 3rd it keeps the upper shafts from freewheeling and if anything should bump into gear it will be least harm to the motor and Transmission. The dana 20 as pictured would have the rear output high and dry to speak.
    If you're only taking it on a few trips per year than maybe put the jeep transfercase in neutral and Transmission in gear and fire it up whenever you stop to oil the rear output.
    Long trips definitely pull the driveshaft.

    For regular towing full float and locking hubs make sense. Sounds like disk brakes are in the mix so instead of 1 off custom parts for a dana 30 rear axle. Maybe have a centered dana 44 built with disk brakes and lockout hubs (Hermtheoverdriveguy comes to mind) this might be cheaper in the grand scheme of things since it would match a lot of other rigs being built.

    Note: I see "locker" and "lockout hubs" getting used interchangeably here.
    Lockers typically replace the spider and side gears in the center of the axle to lock the axle shafts together side to side so left and right wheels pull in mud, snow, and such.
    Lockout hubs like on the ends of the front axle seperate the axle shaft from the wheel assembly so the gears don't turn as the jeep rolls along.
     
  9. Oct 26, 2019
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim New Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    Go with a d-44 centered diff with a flotation axle that has locking hubs.....that's the best way.
    I used to flat tow my Commando over 3K miles a year and never had a problem. Simply put the D-20 x-fer in neutral and went down the road. I did have a stock d-44 diff though.
     
    Jw60 likes this.
  10. Oct 27, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2020 Sponsor

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    Seems that the Dana 30 rear axle was used in 66-67 commandos and replaced with the D44.

    I would run that axle until it explodes, *IF* it ever does. You may never have any problem with it, but a centered D44 should be a direct swap provided the ratios are the same as the front. You can buy a locking differential for this axle, but I would hold off until you find a need for a D44 since the price is double what I would pay for a matching gear ratio D44 on the high side.
    DANA 30 LOCKERS, POSITRACTIONS
     
  11. Oct 27, 2019
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Riverside CA
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    I wouldn't spend the money to have FF axles made for the 30 rear axle.
    As others have mentiond, I'd look for a 44 which gives you more options.
    Don't toss the 30 until you have looked to see if it has a powr lok inside....
     
    47v6 likes this.
  12. Oct 31, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    Thank you for the replies! I’m thinking the plot just thickened... looking into the Dana 44 upgrade with manual locking hubs. Since she has 10inch brakes, looks like the front has to get and upgrade and the power brakes... lol
    Do you think I can do drum rear with manual rear hubs or at this point 4wheel disc? And at this point do I keep the closed knuckle 27 and convert to disc or change that to an open knuckle 30? Thoughts? (This can of worm is growing )lol

    since she’s tucked into the corner of the garage I can’t crawl under to measure the axles is the rear on my 1967 Dana 30 50”? Front Dana 27 is the same as the later ones? 51.5” ?

    thanks again!
    Tony
     
  13. Oct 31, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Beware the dreaded Project Creep. :(
     
  14. Oct 31, 2019
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Active Member

    Vestal NY
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    Iv seen a quick driveshaft disconnect kit they make for rv'ers I dont remember the details. Might be an option or something custom using a tractor pto quick disconnect. call a driveshaft shop maybe they have ideas
     
  15. Oct 31, 2019
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim New Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    D-30 narrow track frt. diff with Geo track disc brakes is a nice upgrade.
    FF centered rear diff are nice-----weak point----locking hubs---- they stripe out! might want to use the old spline hub like what is used on early CJ's without locking hubs. When wanting to tow, use the old style hubs with the splines removed. Like the old Warn summer hubs. Just a thought.
     
  16. Nov 2, 2019
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    The 30 rear has asmallerdiameter and different bolt pattern housing end with an odd offset. Ran into this when trying to set a customer up with a brake conversion. Forget trying to full float one. Get a 44 then do what you want with it. Right out of the gate they are much stronger and parts are readily available for them.
     
  17. Nov 4, 2019
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
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    I read the Geo tracker disc brake conversion. I like the idea of the rotors being able to be removed without tearing the hubs apart.

    Waiting for the quote for a rear D44 axle with manual hubs. And I looked up the wildcard of the disconnect drive shaft. If she was going to go banging around a trail... probably not but for our use.... it’s not out of the question! New drive shaft with the disconnect on it and the mechanism for in cab release. $1125 +$60 shipping. Here’s a link for it if anyone need some reading material. It’s meant for a dingy and our Jeepster isn’t a trail crusher..
    Front Page

    thanks again for your opinions and experiences!
    Tony
     
  18. Nov 4, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Hmmm- I may have to build me one of those :twist:
     
  19. Nov 4, 2019
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim New Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    Fantastic rock collector. Wonder how much mud it takes to jam things up.
     
  20. Jan 13, 2020
    67jeepster

    67jeepster New Member

    S.E. michigan
    Joined:
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    Front disc brakes for the 67 Jeepster, if I go disc on the Dana 27 and would like to have the disc on the outside of the hub for removal. And keep my stock 15” rims with the 2 piece hubcaps

    Pretend everything cost the same.... try not to flame please. experiences with either? Third? Fourth option? I’ve done a lot of searching hard to do a comparison. I understand cheaper (Dutch heritage!! Lol)

    • Geo tracker conversion currently all I could find are used/rebuilt calipers, some drilling and a metric to English brake line. And one of the member said 1/2 inch spacers(Maybe a bit of grinding but close)
    • Jeepsterman kit GM parts rotor on outside of hub bolt on... but maybe 1 1/2 inch spacers to run stock, might look goofy(er)? Lol
    Any thoughts? I would like to have easy maintenance (especially after this summers many brake jobs) on the other cars because of high water

    Thank you
    Tony
     

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