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headlight/dimmer switch wiring

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by piffey263, Jul 2, 2012.

  1. Jul 2, 2012
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
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    I can get everything to work correctly however when I look at the diagram for v6 electrical from Earlycj5.com it shows 3 wires coming from one terminal not 5 like I do. so i decided to rewire it again... because i installed a cigarette lighter (it lights up :) ) and I couldn't fit another wire on that circuit and don't want to cause a fire...


    here is what I got: my headlight switch has three terminals like the diagram but the terminals are in the back and what diagram shows there in the front.
    so would I have dash lights,tail lights on the terminal with power when switch is pulled, then would I have constant power regardless of switch to the dimmer switch? which leaves the parking lights that I would assume should go on with the dash lights but I don't want to have 4 wires to one terminal

    which makes me wonder if my dimmer switch is wired correctly (I took that apart and it makes pop noise like it should the brass piece is turning another words)
    second picture is what I think it should do, but im not entirly positive (is the diagram showing the switch with terminals facing up or is it down)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    made two diagrams in photoshop to confuse less people with my chicken scratch

    I can easily put my wiring back to the way it was but I don't want to have 5 wires to one terminal and i wonder if that's why my brights don't work.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  2. Jul 3, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    I could spend a lot of yours and mine time to get things to work but it would not be correct. First off on your diagram showing the headlight switch and the terminal that is always hot. The only HOT wires all the time, should only be the input from the ignition switch to the circuit breaker and another wire from the output terminal of the circuit breaker down to the stop light switch. No terminals on the light switch should be hot when the switch is off. You either have a bad switch or one that is not designed for this circuitry. What say you?
     
  3. Jul 3, 2012
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
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    that's what I was thinking is its wrong switch, I guess for time being I will rewire how i had it and wait and buy a switch that does what I want it to..

    Thank you, that does help out allot knowing that the non of the switch should be hot when its off, except the circuit breaker part.
     
  4. Jul 3, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    You have a P.O. wired set of switches, maybe.

    The light switch has one always hot terminal. The BAT one. All the rest are activated by the switch itsself.

    The dimmer switch (which should be on (or in) the floor) has a lead going from the light switch terminal that is for the headlights, and either of the two terminals is hot depending on if it is on high beams or low. The high beam will have the lead going to the bright light indicator in the speedometer. The dimmer switch is only hot when the light switch has been pulled all the way out.

    You could have the light switch wired so it can only be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position, but this pulls an awful lot of amperage through the ignition switch that it really isn't built for.
     
  5. Jul 3, 2012
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
    Joined:
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    I will end up buying a new switch, because I had 4-5 wires on one terminal to get it to work correctly. (that's just not right)

    I have thought about running it from the ignition and that way lights turn off when the key is off but like you said an awful lot of amperage going threw the ignition. I want to keep things fairly balanced I would hate to have a fire, like previous owner with the heater system.... (just realized that probably why my electrical is uhh ya)

    thanks for dimmer switch part, I wasn't sure if you needed both sides to be hot to activate the brights or just one (I know now thank you)
     
  6. Jul 3, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Not correct on dimmer info. The center connector is the hot terminal when the light switch is pulled on. That terminal power is switched by pushing the dimmer switch and it switches to either left terminal or right terminal. When you connect these terminals to your lights it doesn't mater which terminal is for low or high because the switch is a flip flop and is only switching the center (power) from one terminal to the other. The main thing you have to do is connect the dash bright indicator with the wire that goes to the bright side of the lights and to one of the other remaining terminals and then the last remaining wire to the remaining empty terminal.

    P.S. It may be illegal in your state to have the headlights turn off with the ignition switch. The power going to the headlight switch is power "ON" all the time and also feeds the brake lights power ON all the time.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  7. Jul 4, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Walt, my brake lights only come on when the ignition switch is either in accessory or run positions. Was that way when I got it back in '05. I don't see any reason to change it.

    Pif, If you are worried about the wiring handling the load, put in relays for the headlights. They are the biggest draw on the electrical system.
     
  8. Jul 4, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Not sure of code now but it used to be a safety code requirement for stop lights and headlights to be hot wired through a circuit breaker.
     
  9. Jul 5, 2012
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
    Joined:
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    thank you both, I planned on running relays but one of those things I will get too in a couple months. I did pick up a new switch at napa today, and
    one would assume if you had headlights wired to turn off with ignition it would be fine as long as taillights would be working no matter what. I will keep in mind though if I do anything crazy to look at vehicle codes.
     
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