Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.
Just get thin top lock nuts.
Just to update for the people doing this, you will absolutely need a hub puller, and a 39/64" drill bit to open the mounting holes in the rotors.
X2 on the hub puller for the rear!
You're upgrading from 10" brakes? Are your wheel studs larger at the hub?
So I did a mockup on a parts jeep today. I wanted to see if the vented rotor setup from a 4-door Tracker would work with stock wheels. I left the pads out and pushed the caliper all the way towards the wheel. There's no interference with a 16" wheel or the steering knuckle. Note - the wheel I used is a welded 16" 'creased disc' type. I plan to look at how much interference there is with the 15x4.5 and 15x5.5 wheels.
A comparison of the 2-dr and 4-dr Suzuki brakes...
The 2-dr rotor (top) is ~3mm larger diameter.
The 4-dr pads have a slightly larger contact area.
The 4-dr calipers have larger pistons.
4-dr = 2.100"
2-dr = 1.887"
I plan to use the vented rotors up front and the solid rotors on the rear.
Stock 9" drums.
I think either the studs are a fuzz larger or the geo disk mounting holes dont quite line up with old jeep stuff. Its sooo close.
My Geo rotors slipped right on. Did not have to drill out.
Am I wrong thinking that there should be more holding the rotor to the hub than the wheel lugnuts?
Yes and no. The wheel lugs are what actually hold the disc in place but, the Suzuki discs are drilled and counterbored for retaining screws just like the 9" drums. You could drill and tap your hubs if you like.
Your not going anywhere without wheels so no need for anything BUT the lugnuts.
ill post a pic of my rotor on the hub pre drilled out. its close, but not going on w/out drilling. it is the same on all 4 corners.
It's been a year so maybe I've forgot something, but I don't remember having to. If I had to drill them out, I'm sure I would have mentioned it here My Geo Tracker Disc Conversion Experience
I'd like to see you setup. The vented discs slipped right onto the hubs in the mockup I did (early 5 w/ D25).
So very close...
Does this hump thingy stay with the new brake system?
still using the old tapered axles? then Yes..
Yup, figured it's the oil drain thingy...
From page #1 Notes:
-The holes in the rotors for the wheel studs need drilled out to .609 with a
39/64 drill bit. A good hand drill typically works fine. I have heard of the register being
up to .614" in some cases
Yup. Some people get lucky and dont have to drill. I did though.
So your wheel studs are larger than 1/2"-20 thread? Or are they just larger at the knurled end and keeping the discs from sitting flat on the hubs?
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