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Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick Disc Brake Solution For Early CJ5's

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by tarry99, Mar 23, 2018.

  1. Mar 23, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,508
    Not my stuff just a friend who also plays off road with Jeeps and makes & sells just the axle housing brackets for $50.00 a pair shipped to help support his habit.............He has these on his early CJ rig with 35" tires and swears by them.......he suggests at least a change to a dual reservoir master if you still have the under floor setup......

    No recommendation on my part just thought I would pass this along as it looks like a quick , cheap , easy and viable solution for a disc brake conversion on the early CJ's ..........These have 11" rotors and some caliper piston bores are just under 2" while others in the group are just over 2"...........do your math and make sure this is a viable solution for your Jeep application..........keeping in mind that excess weight , larger wheels , tires and auto transmissions require more braking torque to stop...

    His name is Brennan Metcalf & can be contacted at: Brennanmetcalf@gmail.com or check out his Facebook page at Brennansgarage

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    Notes:

    This conversion will work on 1941 to 1986 front axles and 1941 to 1970 rear axles, including those with a full float conversion.

    -Use 1995 or earlier Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick front rotors and
    calipers/caliper mount/pads ( These are available at any parts house
    or online at places like RockAuto ).
    This kit is designed around using the NON-vented rotor and caliper.

    Rotors-
    GEO TRACKER 1989-1995
    SUZUKI SAMURAI 1988-1995
    SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1989-1995
    SUZUKI SJ410 1983-1984
    SUZUKIX-901996-1995

    Calipers/Mount/Pads-
    ASUNA SUNRUNNER 1992-1993
    CHEVROLET TRACKER 1989-1995
    GEO TRACKER 1989-1995
    GMC TRACKER1989-1991
    PONTIAC SUNRUNNER 1994-1995
    SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1989-1995
    SUZUKI X-90 1996-1995

    -The rotor goes OVER the wheel bearing hub like the later drum/disc systems
    On the early D25/27 front axle you will have to press the studs out to remove
    the factory drum and then reinstall the studs. A D23 rear axle will be the same
    as the early front axle ( press studs out, replace without drum ). The D41/44 rear
    has the drum brake on the outside of the flange and is easy to replace.
    A dana 30 front axle will have the drum on the outside of the flange also,
    no need to remove the studs.

    -The holes in the rotors for the wheel studs need drilled out to .609 with a
    39/64 drill bit. A good hand drill typically works fine. I have heard of the register being
    up to .614" in some cases

    -You need M12, 1.25mm pitch x ~25-30mm long metric bolts for the caliper
    mount ( I recommend using loctite 243 blue as a minimum along with
    approx 70ft lbs torque with 10.9 or 12.9 fasteners ).
    Depending on washer thickness, pleas check that the bolt does not
    extend beyond the bracket towards the rotor.
    Finding good quality 10.9+ grade bolts is difficult. Fastenal is the
    best place I have found to order these online

    -You need a shim/bushing to offset the OEM caliper mount from my
    bracket. Depending on the bearing hub ( or rear axle ) is should be
    about 5/16"/.313"thick. (Note:These are now provided with each bracket )
    I have had the odd setup happen where this shim is the wrong thickness.
    This typically only happens when you mix and match the
    hub/spindle/axle flange between different versions.

    -The brake hose fitting on the caliper end needs to be a 10mm banjo
    style (I use 1985 honda accord front brake hoses on my flatty and they
    transition to hard lines at the frame).
    Be sure to use the appropriate banjo bolt and crush washers.
    I have some shops that I use for custom brake lines once you figure
    out what length/end you require.

    -You need to chamfer the ID of the center hole of the bracket to
    clear the machined corner radius on the spindle step. A file or 4" flap wheel
    works fine for this. You want to make sure the bracket has no air gap
    behind it. Note: I have elected not to perform this operation on my end.
    I have had people clock the brackets into a different position front vs rear
    and side to side to help clear shocks, steering, etc.
    The caliper should be positioned with the bleed screw at the top
    whenever possible.

    -The bracket goes OVER the spindle just like the stock drum brake
    backing plate did.

    -I use 1/4" cold roll steel for the brackets. If you go
    thicker the spindle studs/bolts start to get in the way of the bearing
    hub. You can use the stock spindle studs and nuts typically.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
  2. Mar 23, 2018
    jeepstar

    jeepstar Member

    Sheboygan
    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2006
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    937
    wow. thanks! another option for us dana 27 people.
     
  3. Mar 23, 2018
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2012
    Messages:
    627
    Who hoo more parts for me to by and shelve till I'm ready to use them!
     
  4. Mar 23, 2018
    jeepermc

    jeepermc Member

    Western WA
    Joined:
    May 25, 2011
    Messages:
    852
    Brennan's stuff. Good guy.
     
  5. Mar 23, 2018
    bty34

    bty34 New Member

    NY
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2017
    Messages:
    2
    I have his setup on my 3a. It's a well put together setup. Fits under my stock 16" wheels and no modifications that would prevent going back to stock if you ever wanted to.
     
  6. Mar 23, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it! Sponsor

    Northern Minn.
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    Nov 14, 2014
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    302
    Thanks! Another upgrade "as long as I have it apart"....:clap:
     
  7. Mar 23, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Bowbender likes this.
  8. Mar 24, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    5,410
    Great info.. Thanks for posting.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor Sponsor

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    Jan 23, 2014
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    This setup sounds like a natural to go with a full-float 44 rear. Just bolt the adapter on with the spindle, slide a rotor over, and drop the caliper on. Plumb up the lines, and all is good. Using the parking brake on the T/C adds to the simplicity.
    -Donny
     
  10. Mar 24, 2018
    Focker

    Focker Ran when parked... Runs while moving. Staff Member Sponsor

    Tri-Cities WA
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    I just might change everything so I can get stock wheels. :shrug:
     
  11. Mar 24, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Those rotors will fit the 15" wheels also.............If you thinks it worth saving change it over...
     
  12. Mar 25, 2018
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs. Sponsor

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
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    11,350
    R&P Early Jeep Parts has started the 1/4 ton kit back up that uses Suzuki rotors and Camaro or S-10 calipers. I think Richard is selling just the brackets at this time but he had a mess of the brackets at the Puyallup 4x4 swap meet. Works very similar but other than the rotors uses domestic vehicle parts.
    Just another option.
     
  13. Mar 25, 2018
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Destroyer of Jeeps Sponsor

    Clinton, Mississippi
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2014
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    881
    There are a few people selling kits on the G503. I was looking at this for my GPW. IIRC you need a 1/2 inch spacer to run combat wheels.
     
  14. Mar 25, 2018
    Karl Childers

    Karl Childers Member

    Taos New Mexico
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2017
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    134
    My drums work fine for the speeds I go but I still find this set up tempting.
     
  15. May 5, 2018
    71CJ54WD

    71CJ54WD Member

    DC
    Joined:
    May 3, 2018
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    140
    Hmmmm - gonna have to do this to the front now. Question is what non-power master cylinder to use for disk/drum though. The factory 71 dual circuit will have the wrong bias for disk/drum.
     
  16. May 6, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it! Sponsor

    Northern Minn.
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    I believe you can remove the residual check valve from the front cylinder and it will work with disc brakes.
     
  17. May 6, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
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    You will need a 2 lb residual pressure valve for disk brakes in front if you leave the stock underfloor master cylinder. I have a 71 with the factory MC and disk brakes up front a 2 lb rpv for the disk and a 10lb rpv for the rear drums and the factory ones removed from the MC. It stops great and has been on there for around 12 years now.
     
    71CJ54WD, Bowbender and mike starck like this.
  18. May 6, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Active Member

    Republic of Texas
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    I have read on the 2a forum that there are guys with the original single resevor running this setup without a valve?
     
  19. May 6, 2018
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Anytime your master is below the level of your calipers or wheel cylinders a residual valve should be used on that circuit.
     
    Bowbender likes this.
  20. May 6, 2018
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
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    Yes!
     

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