Not my stuff just a friend who also plays off road with Jeeps and makes & sells just the axle housing brackets for $50.00 a pair shipped to help support his habit.............He has these on his early CJ rig with 35" tires and swears by them.......he suggests at least a change to a dual reservoir master if you still have the under floor setup...... No recommendation on my part just thought I would pass this along as it looks like a quick , cheap , easy and viable solution for a disc brake conversion on the early CJ's ..........These have 11" rotors and some caliper piston bores are just under 2" while others in the group are just over 2"...........do your math and make sure this is a viable solution for your Jeep application..........keeping in mind that excess weight , larger wheels , tires and auto transmissions require more braking torque to stop... His name is Brennan Metcalf & can be contacted at: Brennanmetcalf@gmail.com or check out his Facebook page at Brennansgarage Notes: This conversion will work on 1941 to 1986 front axles and 1941 to 1970 rear axles, including those with a full float conversion. -Use 1995 or earlier Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick front rotors and calipers/caliper mount/pads ( These are available at any parts house or online at places like RockAuto ). This kit is designed around using the NON-vented rotor and caliper. Rotors- GEO TRACKER 1989-1995 SUZUKI SAMURAI 1988-1995 SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1989-1995 SUZUKI SJ410 1983-1984 SUZUKIX-901996-1995 Calipers/Mount/Pads- ASUNA SUNRUNNER 1992-1993 CHEVROLET TRACKER 1989-1995 GEO TRACKER 1989-1995 GMC TRACKER1989-1991 PONTIAC SUNRUNNER 1994-1995 SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1989-1995 SUZUKI X-90 1996-1995 -The rotor goes OVER the wheel bearing hub like the later drum/disc systems On the early D25/27 front axle you will have to press the studs out to remove the factory drum and then reinstall the studs. A D23 rear axle will be the same as the early front axle ( press studs out, replace without drum ). The D41/44 rear has the drum brake on the outside of the flange and is easy to replace. A dana 30 front axle will have the drum on the outside of the flange also, no need to remove the studs. -The holes in the rotors for the wheel studs need drilled out to .609 with a 39/64 drill bit. A good hand drill typically works fine. I have heard of the register being up to .614" in some cases -You need M12, 1.25mm pitch x ~25-30mm long metric bolts for the caliper mount ( I recommend using loctite 243 blue as a minimum along with approx 70ft lbs torque with 10.9 or 12.9 fasteners ). Depending on washer thickness, pleas check that the bolt does not extend beyond the bracket towards the rotor. Finding good quality 10.9+ grade bolts is difficult. Fastenal is the best place I have found to order these online -You need a shim/bushing to offset the OEM caliper mount from my bracket. Depending on the bearing hub ( or rear axle ) is should be about 5/16"/.313"thick. (Note:These are now provided with each bracket ) I have had the odd setup happen where this shim is the wrong thickness. This typically only happens when you mix and match the hub/spindle/axle flange between different versions. -The brake hose fitting on the caliper end needs to be a 10mm banjo style (I use 1985 honda accord front brake hoses on my flatty and they transition to hard lines at the frame). Be sure to use the appropriate banjo bolt and crush washers. I have some shops that I use for custom brake lines once you figure out what length/end you require. -You need to chamfer the ID of the center hole of the bracket to clear the machined corner radius on the spindle step. A file or 4" flap wheel works fine for this. You want to make sure the bracket has no air gap behind it. Note: I have elected not to perform this operation on my end. I have had people clock the brackets into a different position front vs rear and side to side to help clear shocks, steering, etc. The caliper should be positioned with the bleed screw at the top whenever possible. -The bracket goes OVER the spindle just like the stock drum brake backing plate did. -I use 1/4" cold roll steel for the brackets. If you go thicker the spindle studs/bolts start to get in the way of the bearing hub. You can use the stock spindle studs and nuts typically.