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flanged axle upgrade for 66 cj5?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by cabz, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Jan 9, 2014
    cabz

    cabz Member

    Ocala FL
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2010
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    106
    I have a d44 19 spline axle in the 66 cj5. is there an axle upgrade to do away with the 2 pc axle?. I am pretty sure the axle nuts on my d44 are rust welded on tight.
     
  2. Jan 9, 2014
    sgogpn

    sgogpn I speak fluent Jeepanese... 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Glendale, AZ.
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2002
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    343
    70 1/2 thru 71 CJ5's had a Dana 44 rear axle with 30 spline 1 piece axleshafts. They are rare, but that is the axle you want if you can find one.

    Mike
     
  3. Jan 10, 2014
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Dec 17, 2002
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    2,108
    It is not possible to put flanged axles into a tapered axle housing. But you can upgrade to FF axles.
     
  4. Jan 11, 2014
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Norco, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
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    2,039

    Why do you want to do away with the 2 piece axles?
    For strength? Flat towing?
     
  5. Jan 11, 2014
    cabz

    cabz Member

    Ocala FL
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    Sep 18, 2010
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    106
    I guess to be able to work on it easier, unless theres a way to remove the brake drum or replace the outer axle bearings without removing the axle nut.
     
  6. Jan 11, 2014
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    You can convert to full-floating axles and hubs, or try to find one of the scarce '70-71 CJ axles.

    Seems like a lot of trouble and expense over an ease-of-maintenance issue. Removing the nut and hub isn't that big a deal if you have the right tools and know what to expect. You should not have to be into the brakes and bearings more than about once every 20,000 miles... that's usually a long time for a hobby car. I would spend $150 (or whatever) and buy the proper big puller. Buy a 3/4" breaker bar and big socket if you need more oomph.

    Examples:
    http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Universal-Hub-Puller-P32680.aspx
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200382234_200382234

    Not sure which size socket you'll need - but you can likely get the whole Harbor Freight set for the price of a single name-brand 3/4" drive socket.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-34-in-drive-sae-impact-socket-set-67960-7925.html

    "Go big or go home." :coffee: :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2014
  7. Jan 11, 2014
    ziv

    ziv Member

    Israel
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
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    293
  8. Jan 11, 2014
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Re that puller, I changed the link from the HD puller http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Universal-Hub-Puller-HD-with-Plate-P177757.aspx to the standard puller http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Universal-Hub-Puller-P32680.aspx

    The description of the plate on the HD puller says that it will work on a 4"-5" bolt circle, which is too small for our Jeep hubs, which have a circle of 5 1/2". The description of the regular puller specifically mentions Jeep applications, and suggests that you buy an additional two arms so that you have an arm on each wheel stud. It might be worthwhile to ask OTC about this, considering the cost of the puller.

    IIRC long ago JC Whitney sold a puller that looks the same as the OTC puller, and many here got satisfactory performance from it. Regardless, that's the type of puller you need.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
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    3,784
    Your nut could be rusted on but once you get the nut off more than likely the taper on the hub is more likely to be rusted on and a much greater job to remove...............takes an incredible amount of force to then get it off and sometimes heat via a OX/AC torch also needs to be applied. The Posi-Lock puller shown on the left is a 20 ton puller and is the only one I have had success in removing those stubborn hubs. Not any easy job when there frozen........when you do get them apart clean them up and use a then coat of anti-seeze between the two surfaces.
    And there is a solution to putting a flanged axle into an early tapered axle housing that I worked out with Dutchman axles a while back..............Nothing is easy on these old Jeeps!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Jan 11, 2014
    kamel

    kamel Senior Curmudgeon

    Erlanger, Kentucky
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
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    891
    I've swapped in a flanged axle before. You will need the following parts:

    Complete dana 44 flanged axle assembly from a 70.5-71 CJ

    2 inch U bolts - 4 of 'em. Note they are the same U bolts as on 72-75 dana 44 rear axles

    rear spring hangers - 2 of 'em. Note that you can use 70.5 - 75 rear spring hangers, and I'd imagine '86 spring hangers (from the CJ7 that had a dana 44 rear)

    Remove the old and install the "new to you" parts. You may have some bushing problems with the shocks, but that is pretty much a non-event.

    Bear in mind that the "new to you" axle will have 10 inch brakes, and the 66 cj you have may have 9 or 10 inch brakes.

    Also bear in mind that the differential gear ratio may be different between the remaining front axle and the "new to you" rear axle, and unless or until those ratios are matched, you do not want to put the jeep in 4wd

    I still have the jeep that I did this with, and it functions well.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2014
  11. Jan 11, 2014
    tomatolane

    tomatolane Lane

    Chattanooga...
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    Sep 3, 2012
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    465
    Nice pullers tarry.

    They look like they could pull apart kryptonite :)
     
  12. Jan 12, 2014
    sgogpn

    sgogpn I speak fluent Jeepanese... 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Glendale, AZ.
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    And there is a solution to putting a flanged axle into an early tapered axle housing that I worked out with Dutchman axles a while back..............Nothing is easy on these old Jeeps!

    This is correct. I have an older model Dana44 housing that was given to me a few years ago by a guy who moved on to newer Jeeps. The axle was under his dads flattie and the boys parted his Jeep out when he passed. It has a 19 spline Detroit in it with Summers Brothers 1 piece flanged axles that the old man had made up decades earlier. Seems like the old guys were way ahead of us all.:)

    Mike
     
  13. Jan 12, 2014
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
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    Aug 23, 2009
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    601
    As to a puller, I just bought a puller from CalVan Tools for $82.00 free shipping.. It is awesome, pulled my hub yesterday. It is just like the OTC universal puller with the stricker (hammer stricker). The claw pullers can bend your hub, I found out the hard way, luckly I have another hub for it.
     
  14. Jan 13, 2014
    djbutler

    djbutler Sponsor

    Rio Linda CA
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    So, not trying to sound argumentative with I guy I know to be knowlegeable but...I wonder about the following statement "........when you do get them apart clean them up and use a then coat of anti-seeze between the two surfaces"

    I have been told that these tapered hubs should be re-assembled dry, because you WANT a positive lock on the taper to prevent the hub from working back and forth on the key.

    What is the consensus on this, dry or coated with Anti-sieze?

    Don
     
  15. Jan 13, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Don, let me expand on that...........a thin coat, that's a couple of tenths, to serve as a barrier to not allow rust or them to be frozen together.......the taper with the proper pre-load from the large nut will still do its job with the added help of the key-way.......any time a taper has been allowed to rust and become pitted that interference fit needed to allow the taper to do it's job has been diminished.
     
  16. Jan 13, 2014
    oldtime

    oldtime oldtime

    St. Charles,...
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    Aug 14, 2006
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    2,805
    I coat them with a thin coat of aluminum anti seize.
    But that's on a Hurricane CJ and not a Dauntless.
    Otherwise sometimes they freeze up together and they can be just too darn hard to break free.
    I don't think they can work loose if the key is good and the nut is properly torqued down.
     
  17. Jan 13, 2014
    OHALE

    OHALE New Member

    TEXAS
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2010
    Messages:
    21
    There is a company that makes new axle housings to upgrade to onepiece axles, But do to my old age i cant remember the name of the company right now. Also Moser makes a kit for the Studebaker guys to convert the two piece d44 axles to one piece. Bet they could furnish a kit with the correct axle shaft lenghts to fit a jeep.
    check them out. I also have been looking to do this.
    ohale
     
  18. Jan 13, 2014
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Mar 4, 2003
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    4,697
    For years we just wiped them down with a rag that had been used around oil or wiped my hands off with and put them together... Now we don't have as much rust as other folks, but even wheeling in the snow, mud, and rivers didn't get them to the point of rusting together.
     
  19. Jan 13, 2014
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    Apr 11, 2012
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    While I went the full floater route on my cj6, with old Chevy spindles, Ford internal spline hubs and disc brakes, and Moser shafts, in retrospect I would've just cut down a Scout Dana 44 on one side only. Woulda been much cheaper and easier.
    Frank
     
  20. Jan 13, 2014
    Jeepenstein

    Jeepenstein Me like Jeep..

    Central FL
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2003
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    1,684
    I built my own of sorts.. I used Summer Bros. One piece axles and sourced my own bearings and such. Made my own shrink on collars.. I should have documented it all but it was back a ways..
     

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