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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Aug 29, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    At the foot of...
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    That horn looks just like the one we got in a box of parts with my son's Willys pickup.
    It sounds cool.... :cool:
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  2. Aug 29, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    A step forward...and a half step back....trying to tune the quadrajet and realized I am missing a rod that goes from the thermal coil to the choke...
    [​IMG]

    should look like this:
    [​IMG]
    in other words, the choke has not been closed when trying to start with only flooring gas pedal (I really prefer manual choke). I think I can find the right pieces...hopefully that will make it a bit easier to cold start. Was also wondering about just running the manual choke cable to the spot, and activating by hand...but I would have to remove the the reverse 'L' piece with the tiny notch in the end that locks out the secondary throttle plate from opening until the engine is warm. Think I will try to keep it as it should be and not go customizing too much...but I wouldn't mind having the oem choke cable functional on the carb if needed.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2019
  3. Sep 3, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Got the thermal choke system figured out....working on getting idle speeds set.
    [​IMG]

    Setting cold/fast idle around 1000 and then hot/low idle at 650. From what I have read, the hot idle should be even lower - say closer to 450-500 - but I backed the hot idle screw all the way out and 650 it is. I tried trimming the idle down with the idle mixture screws, but they don't seem to have much affect. Guessing I need to look at the timing a bit more...at least it running with some decent timing advance, but I probably need to get the vac gauge out and really get it dialed in. Drove it down to the parts store tonight...its definitely started running a bit warm, so will continue to figure out the fan spacer and radiator....
     
    47v6 likes this.
  4. Sep 3, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    I wouldn't set the hot idle too low. I would call 650 good it still needs to turn the generator, move air, pump water, and occasionally drive the power steering pump at full lock when idle.
     
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  5. Sep 4, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    Don't forget that timing advance can also make it idle fast. I agree with Jw60 that you don't want it too low either.
     
    Fly Navy likes this.
  6. Sep 5, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Now that things seem to be running...I need to address the cooling system as it likes to get too warm. The radiator itself has some seeps, and looks like it could use a tank cleaning/rodding out and one of the mounting brackets on the top tank has broken loose...but there are some other issues as well - mostly that the engine is mounted pretty far back and there is a big space between the fan and the radiator and there is no shroud.
    There is about a 5" gap between the fan and radiator.
    [​IMG]

    I think I can put on a fan spacer that will bring the fan 1-2 inches forward, but I have to be careful as the engine is also mounted fairly low, and bottom of the fan will hit the front cross-member.
    [​IMG]

    Additionally, the current radiator doesn't fit in the oem mount opening behind the grill, and has been mounted rearward by 1.5". In a sense, this is good as it brings the radiator closer to the fan, but it also moves it away from the the inflow of fresh air through the grill, and I don't know how much of a negative affect that has?
    [​IMG]

    Most likely, I will be replacing this radiator with an aftermarket one that would fit exactly in the stock location (and is supposedly good for a V8), and trying to determine what would be the best plan for ensuring proper cooling.
    1) mount the new radiator in the oem location up right behind the grill, add a 1-2" spacer to the fan which would mean a 5inch gap between the radiator and fan, and add a shroud
    2) mount the new radiator with spacers that pushes the radiator back a couples inches (about where the current one is), add 1-2 inch fan spacer that closes the gap between the radiator and fan to about 3" and add a shroud. The gap between the radiator and fan will be smaller with this set-up, but the radiator would not be in the optimal location right behind the grill for fresh air inflow.

    Not sure which would be better. Probably start with mounting the radiator in the oem location, and add a fan spacer and shroud...if that doesn't work I can always try to move the radiator back towards the fan a bit....
     
  7. Sep 5, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

    Apopka, Fl
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    I vote for the new radiator in the oem location, and a good shroud and see how that does. Also before changing the radiator try flushing the engine to see if any kind of crud/buildup comes out. Wait on the fan spacer.
     
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  8. Sep 5, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    I realize I am about 2 weeks late but I just remembered and if I recall correctly the fuel pump push rod can be held from falling out by using a longer bolt temporarily on the upper front motor mount hole.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  9. Sep 6, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    A fan shroud will make a big big difference in airflow.
     
  10. Sep 6, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Just to ask....what do people think about using an electric fan with shroud mounted on the backside of the radiator....the Champion radiator can be ordered with electric fan/shroud...May also work on building my own shroud to use with the mechanical fan....I don't really have a clean way to bend sheet metal either for 90 degree corners or for the circular tube....not sure about fiberglass yet either....
     
  11. Sep 6, 2019
    45es

    45es Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I suggest you stick with the mechanical fan. An electric fans add quite a bit of electrical load and you chose to stay with a generator rather than a higher output alternator.
    While deciding your options, can the Champion shroud be made to work with a mechanical fan (possible option). Have you considered possibly using a declutching fan which would move the fan closer to the radiator. A slightly smaller diameter fan could be used if clearance to frame is an issue but with a shroud shouldn't create an issue.
     
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  12. Sep 6, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    thanks - great point - almost forgot about that.
     
  13. Sep 6, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    Is there a sheet metal shop in your area?
     
  14. Sep 6, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    I am sure there is...whether I can afford it is a different question....Wondering if I could make one out of flat sheet metal pieces that i cut and MIG weld together on a low setting along the corner joints. Thinking I could use a 2" strip of metal for the end circle and just bend it along tack welding it in place every inch or so. Might not be perfect round curve, but maybe could work? Certainly wouldn't have the clean finish of a brake bent metal as my beads would be a bit ugly....
     
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  15. Sep 6, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    That's along the line of what I was thinking. Something rudimentary/experimental to determine what will work.
     
  16. Sep 6, 2019
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

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    Maybe try some panel glue instead of welding?
     
  17. Sep 7, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member Sponsor

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    i used some fiberboard and an old t shirt as per the article in jp mag to make a fiberglass one wasnt too hard and works well.
     
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  18. Sep 7, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

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    Figured out why the driver side bench seat was having some issues....broken seat bracket...will clean it up and try to weld it back together...

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Sep 7, 2019
    jeep peep69

    jeep peep69 Sponsor Sponsor

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    Also the gap between the grill and radiator you should close up it help direct air into the radiator rather than around. Use rubber belting or I've used inertubes cut into strips.
     
  20. Sep 7, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

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    I agree with Ed, but only because you have a generator that won't push the amps you need with an electric fan. I upgraded my alternator to a 10si because i really needed more amps to power the thing. If it were me, I would install an alternator for the amperage you need to run a champion setup and all your lights at the same time above 12.5 volts.

    You would solve several issues without having to move the engine or run really long spacers and different fans..I will duck now..:poke:
     
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