Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.
thanks - axles back in...going to wait until tomorrow to bleed brakes and test out...
In planning for the rubicon trip I wanted a good way to carry a water jug...I used to strap a plastic jug to the side roll bar on top of the fender, and while a bit simplistic it did work just fine. But with ideas of mounting a rack across the back cargo area using the roll bar (hopefully more to come on that soon), I needed a new place to put the water. When I first got my jeep, it came with a vintage aftermarket tire carrier and dual fuel can rack that was body mounted...here is an old pic:
This rack was damaging the body where mounted along with other rust issues and it didn't allow for use of the tailgate - which was important for me. After repairing some of the body issues, I got a Tomken rear bumper and swing away tire carrier with some modifications to tie into an early cj5 frame. But I needed a way to carry some extra fuel at the time, as the cj only had the 10 gal under seat tank. So I cannibalized the old rack and made up my own jerry can holder that has 2 pieces: a plate that goes behind the spare tire with a square tube (male) that comes out through the center of the spare. The jerry can holder has the female square tube that slides onto the base piece and I hold it all together with a hitch pin type set-up (this was my second welding/fab project - after the welding cart - so its not pretty or square but it does work).
Once I installed the dual tanks a few years ago, I stopped carrying the extra fuel can. When thinking about a place to carry an extra water jug, using the fuel can rack on the spare tire made a lot of sense - except the jerry can holder is kind of old school, and uses the metal lip along the bottom of the can to hold the can. Thus all plastic water jugs and even quite a few of the new fuel cans will not mount on the existing set-up. I was just about ready to begin making a new can holder when I came across this RT Offroad water can with FDA approved food grade liner. Its a bit pricey at $50, but it is exactly what I was looking for. It has the metal lip along the bottom edge, and mounts almost identically to the rack as a the old fuel cans do.
I did have to make a small mod to the latch - but it still works with either the fuel or water can. Score!
Now on to finishing the cargo rack mount.
Now on to the cargo rack...I started with a HF hitch rack. HF actually calls this an ATV rack as its a bit smaller and has the raised rail only around 3 sides - both of which I considered to be better than the standard rack for this application.
Obviously I had to cut off the hitch tongue.
Then I had to make some brackets that I welded onto the shaft collars. I only used one collar on each side - the collar itself will be plenty strong on the roll bar, but it does put a lot of stress on the relatively small welds between the bracket and collar. My wife said I should have used two on each side...she may prove to be right...I was being a bit cheap maybe.
Bracket mounted on the roll bar
The rack resting on the brackets - I do need to drill the 4 mounting holes to connect the brackets to the rack. Then I can finish it up and make it all pretty.
Finishing up some Rubicon prep. Needed to top off knuckle pudding. I have always used the homemade knuckle pudding of mixed gear oil and grease...recently saw a post from duffer and Donny about using lubriplate. My local FLAPS didn't have that specific brand but had a sta-lube engine assembly lube with moly graphite. It's a NLGI grade 0...seems about the same as the knuckle pudding I would make up....maybe a bit thicker or more viscous. Comes in an easy to Squeeze into the filler hole tube and there is no mess. And its pretty easy to squeeze it in to above the fill hole. Thinking of using it in the Ross steering box as well.
Its a little thing...but should be nice and functional....my driver side mirror 'pivot' or adjusting ball has slowly been becoming non-functional. You can see the triangular crack that has completely surrounded the pivot ball and makes the mirror useless. The mirror housing/backing plate you see is plastic so not much of a way to fix it up.
I like the size and orientation of these...they are a bit smaller and I like the slightly rectangular shape better than the ubiquitous ones you can find on all aftermarket retailers. TlmE sent me some that are a pretty good replacement....I intended to clean them up a bit and paint them etc...make em look all nice and new...but after 2-3 months I just decided to throw them on as is (with a bit of lubrication for the pivot ball and hold-down screws). Thanks TlmE - looks like they will work perfect and I won't worry about smashing them into rocks or trees too much on the Rubicon!
Looking good James. Other than my shop door being closed, our pictures of the same mirror are eerily similar...
Not the best pic, but I have the little round ones on there now...
FWIW I run the same mirrors they are made by grote 10 bucks or so at the flaps
The black rectangle ones or the round ones?
The black rectangle ones.
I like the round spot mirrors on my Jeeps. The wider range of view appeals to me for some reason.
thanks to Tomtom for getting me to think about what mods are needed now that its run the Rubicon . In a perfect world, I think that means power steering and some sort of traction device in the front axle. As I would prefer to keep my D27 (for now), I don't think a front locker is all that viable due to breakage issues, but I think a powerlock would work really well, and that would probably require power steering. So all this means looking into either the traditional Saginaw, or possibly the Herm set-up. With the herm set-up, not sure how well that works with the V6 mechanical fuel pump as well as would require a rear dump driver side exhaust I think (not to mention I have the frame mounted MC in that area as well). So, most likely its a Saggy swap... and while I had always figured on manual saginaw, worked fine on my cj7 and I thought it turned reasonably easy, but with the powerlock in the front I would probably prefer the power. Am I thinking along the correct lines...a selectable locker is always the most ideal (much appreciate the e-locker in the rear), but just don't think its a good idea to run a full locker in the D27, and I don't want to dump too much money into it? At this time, I'd prefer to keep the D27 open than swap to a D30 with regear and locker. I know Doug has run a PL in his D27 with manual steering before moving to power...
Although its probably not the easiest way to do it, I think I would go with the AA method for the saggy swap...keep my current steering column and cut off the worm gear:
6) Steering Conversions Jeeps prior to 1971 | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters
Looking under the jeep currently, I am not sure how much I have to modify to fit the Saggy steering shaft. The current Ross draglink is far enough 'inboard' of the driver side frame rail to go next to the block with the exhaust outside of it (which I like because it gives a bit more space from the fuel pump).
I think I can fit the saginaw steering shaft where the current ross draglink is, but probably have to raise the steering box end up and go through a portion of the front cross-member...Guessing I would also need some sort of double u-joint setup at the base of the column....
Looking forward to seeing how your PS comes together . My only advice is don't hook up the hoses backwards, bad things.... I'm told.
Like broken wrists.....I’m told.
Its going to be awhile...the jeep funds are depleted with the upholstery work and the rubicon prep (locker etc). But kind of beginning the thinking aloud...maybe this winter if all goes well.
I've been thinking about welding the front and rear on my 3b junk. It's supposed to be a trail only rig but I've had other thoughts...
Fwiw the lunchbox lockers that were in the zuk survived my abuse and 35's. The steering (manual) wasn't bad either. Definitely better than a ross box imo.
There’s a third option...
Rebuilding An Old High School Friend!
My advice is don't overlook the simplicity of the stock intermediate setup. I know the early's have exhaust and crossmember issues to deal with, but I can't imagine a 304 intermediate has any more room between the exhaust manifold and the frame than a v6 early. Pick up a used late model xj steering shaft as they are almost the correct length or a length of DD stering shaft and play around with routing options.
I went this route to stay away from my frame mounted Master cylinder, and leave the front dump exhaust as is. I kept my stock column from the floor up also. Something to consider.
Here are some thoughts I'll drop on your garage floor - and I can help with some of it for you as well.
Seriously consider the D30 and Select-able locker up front. I love my setup and OX Lockers front and rear. You also usually get disc brake upgrades that way too. I liked the 25/27s I ran for years, but this was an excellent upgrade.
Yes, you can run Saginaw with stock Dauntless exhaust. Takes a bit of 'imagination' on running the shaft or hammer work on the tube. The best setup I did used a pillow block and worked real well.
You can start with a Manual Box and then upgrade to Power later - I have power boxes and manual installed. You simply build the mount to fit a power and install the manual as they use the same bolt patters. You just need to account for the bigger power box when you set them up.
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