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Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Oct 3, 2014.

  1. Apr 24, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Thanks to Tim E I have some set-up bearings to finish this up. Of course, it doesn't just go back together easily. My original trac-loc case has .049 on the bolt side and .040 on the tooth side (I assume this includes the .015 for preload as well). I started by putting the case in bearings and cups and all, without any shims to see roughly if the total amount of shims what amount of spacing was needed for zero preload - seems to be close enough around .080. I then removed and reinstalled with the shims as before...It was a lot of dead blow hammering to get it in and when it was eventually in, there was no backlash - it was too tight. Then trying to get the case back out was a complete PITA...I was about to give up. It took a lot of hammering on a small prybar to get it out, and when it came out, there were some metal shavings from the little circular edging at the ends of the carrier tubes. So I kind of feel like the preload was a bit too much - but my .080 measurement above suggests it shouldn't be. And of course I am going to have to increase the amount of shim on the tooth side to create some backlash. If I moved .010 shim from the bolt side to the tooth side, that would roughly create a little over .006 of backlash, but I think I would still have too much pre-load (or maybe I need to remove a bit of the preload just for set-up to make it easier to get in and out, and I can add it back in at the end).

    After re-reading the FSM, I think I may want to re-check the gaps with a better proceedure as I may not have taken the .080 correctly...try again tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2019
  2. Apr 25, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! Sponsor

    Washington DC.
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    There is a lot of trial and error sometimes. I had my D44 case in and out about 20 times. The D30 was done in about 3 or 4. Just take your time and don't force anything.
     
  3. Apr 25, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    ^^^ This.
    Also when not using a case spreader apply some grease to the tube end surfaces to aid the bearings to slide on those surfaces.
    Dana 44
     
  4. Apr 25, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    Likely what you are fighting is the elocker carrier being dimensionally different than the original carrier. Pinion depth should be fine. I would try taking out .010 preload from the bolt side, then move .010 from the bolt side to the tooth side and see where you are on backlash.
     
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  5. Apr 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    I agree...thanks
     
  6. Apr 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Allright...time for the idiot moment. After getting the case out yesterday evening I called it a night and just left it on the workbench. When I went to change the shims today I realized I had the shims packs on the wrong side of the case - arghhh! The .040 should go on the bolt side and the .049 on the tooth side (fortunately I am trying to keep good written records of what I had and what I have done). So, I am still going to remove .010 from the total to reduce preload a bit and allow it to fit in and out easier, and go with a test fit of .040 on the bolt side and .039 on the tooth side. I am guessing that will still have too little backlash, but will work it a little at a time. After this trail, I won't just remove a shim pack, but will move a shim from the bolt side to the tooth side (assuming the preload is about right for test fitting). Its gonna happen, just gonna take some time...
     
  7. Apr 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    So, with .040 on the bolt side and .040 on tooth side, it was much more reasonable to get the case into the carrier, and now I am getting .008+/-.001 for backlash - which is fine and close to the .009 with the old case and same R&P. Now for a pattern test...seems pretty close to what I had before: centered between the top and root and a bit towards the toe. I took this quick so they are not the best pics - but I think they compare favorably with the old pattern posted a bit back (Fino's 1970 Mini Build Thread)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Apr 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    ok...went ahead and finalized the install. I used .040 shim on the bolt side and .050 on the tooth side (although I test fit it with .040 on the tooth side, I added an additional .010 for preload). Then heated and drove on the new bearings (if I have to take this apart, getting these bearings off without damage will be difficult). The extra preload definitely made it a bit more difficult to get the case into the carrier, but I got it in and it did not seem to do any damage. I rechecked backlash, and still just over .009" so that should be fine for this used R&P.
    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Apr 27, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Axle shafts back in with brakes and pinon seal and yoke all taken care of. I re-greased the axle unit bearings and cleaned everything up. After checking to see how the locker is working, i will probably pull the shafts and get new unit bearings and seals installed. It's pretty easy pulling these shafts and it can be done easily with axle installed.

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Apr 27, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Repaired some dents and clean-up and painted the diff cover...its installed and all is ready to put back under the jeep.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Apr 30, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Okay - putting stuff back together - not sure you need photos of that....but I did get the wiring roughed in. I mounted the relay and 'suppression diode' up on the inside of the firewall where my 2 fuse blocks are. Since I had fuse blocks (both always hot and keyed 12V) - I simplified the wiring harness a bit using my fuse blocks instead of their inline fuses and breaker. I also decided to use my own rocker switch as it was easy to mount in place of their large rectangular plastic switch. As I didn't want to drill a new hole in the face of the dash, I am mounting the rocker sideways just under the dash (it also has a little red LED) in an existing hole. Its pretty close to the parking brake handle - see how well that works for now.
    [​IMG]
    Although nothing is clean and tidy with the wiring yet...I just wanted to see if the locker would lock...and it does! As I am working solo...I had to put the tires back on the rear, and with only one side jacked-up, I can spin the tire about a 1/8-1/4 of a turn and the locker clicks in either direction (when the locker is on). When off, the tires spin opposite when both are lifted. Time to finalize all the little stuff.
     
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  12. May 5, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Well...jeep went on a liquor run...so far so good. Cruised around the block and did some brake self adjusting stops. Then decided it was time for some beer! First time in 2 months the jeep has been out of the garage.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. May 5, 2019
    Lockman

    Lockman ..... He who dies with the most Tools... Wins ! Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    White City, NY 14617
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    Lookn' Good Fino.... U da Man ! ( The 'T's from your family are great , also ! )
    Richie-----Lockman
     
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  14. May 5, 2019
    neohic

    neohic Member

    Woodland Park, CO
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    Looking real good!
     
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  15. May 6, 2019
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
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    You do great work James. Let me know if you plan a trip in the mountains of CO. I would love to tag along.
     
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  16. May 6, 2019
    mike starck

    mike starck Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    salem,oregon
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    Nice jeep ! looking good been following your story. I like the slots on the ECJ5's
     
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  17. May 6, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    Eaton doesn't specify any break-in procedure, but this is what I am thinking:
    The R&P are re-used and set back up to match the previous wear pattern and clearances as best as possible, but its not EXACTLY the same. Plus with the e-locker case, the side gears are all new. So I am thinking SOP for new gears is 500 miles of low-stress use and keeping the gear oil temps from getting too hot before putting things to hard use on the trail etc. After 500 miles, I should probably change the gear oil - and maybe I can pull the axle shafts and replace the axle bearings and seals then as well (local NAPA can replace those for me...I dont want to mess with trying to get those on and off the axle shafts without proper tools.
     
  18. May 6, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member Sponsor

    Denver, CO
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    So, while thinking about replacing the axle bearings...I can get the local NAPA machine shop to replace the axle bearings, but what is the best way to pull the races out of the axle housing. Is this slide hammer territory with some sort of tool on the end that will go in and behind the race? My experience with removing races etc, is that it takes a lot of effort to drive them out, so not sure a simple slide hammer will give enough oomph to pull them out. Maybe I can use a 2 or 3 jaw puller, but would need some sort of plate or bridge across the the front of the flange for the screw drive to push against (and still allow the jaws to fit into the axle housing). Also, doing a bit of research on axle bearing parts etc, it seems there is the axle bearing and race, and a seal that goes on the axle shaft as well that sits outboard of the bearing, and then there is a seal (more traditional looking like a pinion or wheel bearing seal) inside the axle housing inboard of the bearing race. Does that make sense... Each side has a bearing, race, and two seals?
     
  19. May 6, 2019
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member 2019 Sponsor

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    Can sometimes run a bead of weld on ID of race. It'll contract when it cools and shrink it. No guarantee that it falls right out, but will be looser than it was.
     
  20. May 6, 2019
    TIm E

    TIm E Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    NW Arkansas
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    Right. The inner seal is to keep the diff oil in the diff/axle tubes, the outer seal is to keep the wheel bearing grease in; dirt, water, etc. out.

    For the wheel bearings, you will want a Timken Set10. It comes with the bonded race/cone and locking ring.
     

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