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E Brake

Discussion in 'Early CJ-5 and CJ-6 Tech' started by mickeykelley, Jul 1, 2019.

  1. Jul 1, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    I went to use my EBrake (on the tranny) the other day when leaving Willie idling and it was a real pain. It was difficult to pull out and again to twist to return. Additionally, it's hard to reach under there to find and manipulate. First I think I need it to take it down and try lubing the shaft. What should I use? Does the cable need lubing? With what?

    But, it seems to me that it is not much of an 'emergency' brake as a 'parking' brake, and pretty limited at that too. Not sure it would help much if needed because you lost your brakes.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2019
    Twin2

    Twin2 wasn't me Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    take in down from dash . spray it with WD40 or equivalent
     
  3. Jul 1, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

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    Technically it is an e-brake as there was (still is) a requirement for a secondary braking system, with the advent of dual circuit hydraulic brakes these things became "parking" brakes.

    When fresh they do actually provide a fair amount of braking force, you're not going to lock'em'up but if you have the biceps they will effectively slow you down.

    Sounds to me like you're on the right track with the cable, IIWM I'd just order a new one.
     
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  4. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Actually, WD 40 is NOT a lubricant. It's more of a solvent and is abrasive. Not good for cable at all. Try a silicone based lube or equivalent. I don't think WD 40 has much use around vehicles. But, that's my opinion and I am probably wrong. Can someone on the tech side change my mind?
     
  5. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Check out FMVSS 302. "parking brakes" are required to be dynamic brakes also. An added safety in case of brake failure.
     
  6. Jul 1, 2019
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist Sponsor

    Albertville, AL
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    WD-40 is not abrasive, (Water displacement 40th try) was invented to protect the outer skin of Convair Atlas missiles from rust and corrosion by Norm Larsen in 1953.
    People have speculated for years whats in it, I don't think WD-40 was ever patented, this was done to keep the contents secret.
    Its made up of mostly of aliphatic hydrocarbons.
     
  7. Jul 1, 2019
    Jrobz23

    Jrobz23 Member

    Northern, WI
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    Didn't someone do a disk conversion on that e-brake at some point? I swore I saw one a few years ago but can't find the thread now.
     
  8. Jul 1, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    The lower part of the cable (under the hood) probably has a twisted wire casing. They will absorb and hold engine oil or ATF if you drizzle it on the exterior. What I do.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  9. Jul 1, 2019
    Hellion

    Hellion Rust covered & junky

    Eastern TN
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    Graphite lubricant? The type recommended for speedo cables. The petroleum distillate (smells like thinner) is supposed to largely evaporate and leave the graphite behind.

    Otherwise, the cable lubricant most recommended for motorcycle use. WD-40 is not slippery enough IMO.
     
  10. Jul 1, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member Sponsor

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  11. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    It may be FMVSS 355. Been out of that business for several years now.
     
  12. Jul 1, 2019
    Twin2

    Twin2 wasn't me Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    low tech parking brake . and we have seen a lot of these :lol:
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    It's FMVSS 135. FMVSS FOR GVR above 7000 lb.
     
  14. Jul 1, 2019
    mike starck

    mike starck Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    I would use some ATF on cable and upper part where handle is. can't hurt and it soaks in pretty good. I use it on my winch lines.
     
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  15. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Not to be oobtrusive, but most articles I just read state that it is a rust preventive. Indeed, it was developed for missle rust prevention, but they almost all state it is not for lubricating. It was made for water displacement. Most sites recommend it not be used as a lube, but more as a penetrating oil. I see there is lots of disagreement on its usefulness. I am not changed. I will not use it as a lubricant. Way too abrasive and any lubricant properties it has quickly disolve and leave an abrasive film. Spray some on a non-absorbing item (glass, etc). Let it dry then rub the residue between your fingers.
     
  16. Jul 1, 2019
    Jw60

    Jw60 Recovering Jeepaholic

    Sedalia MO.
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    Whatever is used needs to be friendly to the plastic around the casing. The casing is a wrapped wire with plastic on top. Just like a bicycle shift or brake cable. I last used bicycle chain and cable lube (wax) in a liquid carrier and it's worked good but I replaced the inner cable with stainless aircraft cable in 2006.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
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  17. Jul 1, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member Sponsor

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    Some times WD-40 is preferable on things that you don't want to be oily. That's how I use it.
     
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  18. Jul 1, 2019
    Cowboyjeeper

    Cowboyjeeper Member

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    Napa chain and cable live worked well on park cables for me
     
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  19. Jul 1, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL Member Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    No plastic on the Earlies. Just oil the exterior and it soaks through.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  20. Jul 1, 2019
    Lee Bennett

    Lee Bennett Banned

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    Even more reason to use a silicone type product.
     

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