Jeff, pistons will be the most expensive part for a real rebuild. You have two choices: reuse your old pistons or buy new ones. If you buy new ones they will be oversized and the machine shop will bore the block and fit the new pistons to the bores. This is not something you can do yourself. If you reuse your pistons, you will be putting the original pistons back into a worn bore. The rings wear away the bores unevenly, so the bores develop a taper, top to bottom, largest at the top. It's a judgement call whether you can reuse the pistons, hone the bores, and fit the old pistons and new rings. The more taper, the shorter the life of the replacement rings will be. With crooked bores, you must use cast iron rings (no chrome or moly) because they are soft enough to wear-in to the imperfect bore. This also means that the rings wear out more quickly, because they are soft and because the constant flexing of the tapered bore fatigues the ring metal. A rebuild is considered reconditioning to "like new" performance and longevity. You can rebuild an engine yourself. Some things you have to send out, like the head and fitting new pistons, but you can do it. You can also do an old fashioned overhaul, which is rings, rod bearings, and valve grind. Or something in between. Lots of possibilities, and a good outcome requires some judgement. Also, in this age of factory rebuilds (or "remanufacturing") doing it yourself could end up costing as much or more than a factory built block. With an iron crank (like the 232), the crank itself wears about as much as the bearing material does. I suspect you'll either be able to leave the bottom end alone, or you will need a crank kit. The kit has a crankshaft that has been precision ground slightly undersized, and slightly oversized bearings. You can check the fit with gauges or Plastigage. You could start with this book, if you're keen on reading: https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Builders-Handbook-Tom-Monroe/dp/1557882452 These engines are very conventional, and you don't need a lot of specialized knowledge to work on them. Also read the TSM chapter completely. Ask questions. Just me: I would set the new engine in the chassis or on a home-made engine stand and start it. See what you get. Oil pressure and compression test first. The 232/258 typically wears out the rings before the bottom end fails. A running engine will tell you a lot more than one that is sitting on the floor.