Dana 18 Rebuild

Ok guys. I tore this Dana 18 apart. It has a 4" hole with a 1 1/4 intermediate shaft. It came with the single stick shifter too. I got a bit overzealous and tore it apart without pictures or any documentation. I hate cleaning up these transmissions and transfer cases. They are caked with decades of ick. I believe this one rode behind a dauntless and a T-14.

This is not the one that is in my jeep, that one is small hole 1 1/8 intermediate shaft with twin shifters. I will leave that one in for now.



I have some questions.

I see that the output shaft interior bushing needs replacing. How have any of you done this? Removing it looks like I would use a cold chisel to peel it out of the inside of the output shaft? Installing I would freeze the bushing and heat the shaft? Any better ideas?

The next question is,

When installing the twin shifter, do i have to do anything to make the old housing work? Any modification or does it just bolt on?

This particular Dana 18 has needed to be rebuilt for a while.


it also looked as if someone drove around for like 500 miles with the parking brake on. The backing plate is almost worn through and a deep groove is worn into the drum. The shoes had no material left on them.

Many others have done this and there is plenty of info out there, but lets make a new thread anyway.
Details on Rebuilding the Spicer Model 18 Jeep Transfer Case
http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html
Howards documentation
Index of /Images/The Sludge Pile

 

Not a T14 transfer case.
What's the part number on the tag ?

 

Hello I have replaced several output shaft bushing. What worked for me was. Had to make a driver to install. I think it was a short chunk(3 inches long) of 3/4" (might have been 11/16) cold roll shaft. Turn one end down to a little less than 5/8" for about 3/4 of a inch. Put this into bushing hole until it bottoms out. Make a mark on driver. This will tell you how deep to set bushing. Bore old bushing out with a drill bit slightly less than 5/8". Press new bushing in to depth mark on driver. Probably will have to ream new bushing. I used a 5/8" reamer. I do this on lathe. Engine rebuild shop may be able to hone to fit if there is a little space left beyond bushing. (never tried this) They cannot hone a blind hole. Bill

 

A twin stick front housing will bolt on, in place of the single stick housing, with no mods to the housing itself.

 

I guess I will be doing this on a lathe too.

 

Awesome. Thank you.

 

I found this very helpful. Almost as helpful as the members here whose patience I wore thin with my endless questions about simple stuff.


MODEL 18 T Case Rebuld

If you make a tool for installing that bushing,....make 2 of them, ehh.

 

No, not a t-14 transfer case, but transmission.

 

Yes, apparently the Stivers write up is the standard. And yes, If the tool I make works correctly you can have one. I hope the Novak kit comes with a new bushing.

You can see that the bushing is egged out in this pic.

 

Might want to ask them if it's included in the kit or not. I don't recall. Folks without your abilities often just buy a new shaft with the bushing already installed. But, that ain't you. Have at 'er.

 

I got the skills of a hammer torch mechanic! along that thought line I think I can make a tool with 2 shoulders. One for the bushing and another to locate the depth where it would sit flush on the outside of the shaft. I bet I could freeze that bushing on the tool that i make and heat the shaft. I bet I could make it slide right on and ream to perfection. Might require a little bit of pressure, but I hope to avoid the deformation that may occur with the thin brass or bronze bushing with oil holes. I certainly don't want to deform it on the tool and not be able to get it back out.

Might be over thinking it on a rainy day too.

 

Thinking really hard about a disk parking brake setup.
Dana 18 TC Disk Emergency brake
Pielut's Driveline Parking Brake

 

That's right. I forgot that little tidbit. The t-14s used a 10-spline, right?

The one I sent you did come from behind a t-86.

 

This should be good! Can't wait to see what you come up with.

 

The Novak Guide to Dana 18 & 20 Gears Interchange 1941-1979

thats the gear interchange chart I used to figure out what I needed. The big hole D18 I got didn't come with the bull gear.

 

I was seriously considering using some eldorado calipers and a single rotor for same. The eldorado calipers I bought as a set a couple years ago from rock auto on clearance. They came complete minus the E brake arm. It seems that the E brake portion of the caliper does not work without brake fluid, so its not truly mechanical, unless I am missing something. The rotor and caliper are also large, 10.5 inches and weighs a lot.

It would be none too difficult to make a hydraulic E brake. An E brake arm on the floor attached to a clutch master would work.


Haven't guys used this concept of a couple brake masters on the floor for independent brakes on the rear for help with steering or some stuff?

The caliper can go either side, I just happened to unwrap this side a while back. Its large and could function as both an emergency brake and a mechanical parking brake. Its a lot of effort.

I am looking to this Wilwood 120-2374, Wilwood Mechanical Parking Brake/Spot Calipers | Wilwood

I dont see how this would work as anything other than a marginal parking brake and not at all as an E brake, but it is a lot smaller and less complex. Either way I still need to fabricate stuff.

 

Don't laugh, but if I ever do this, I'd look into a snowmobile caliper on a rear Subaru GL rotor.

93 arctic cat mountain cat ext 580 brake caliper and cable #A62

C-TEK BY CENTRIC - C-TEK Standard Rotor-Preferred - Part Number: 121.47004 - Mypartsgarage | mypartsgarage.com

I think the little snowmobile caliper would work fine in combination with the gear reduction in the axles. If more leverage is needed, just add length to the arm.

The Subaru rotor is nice because it is under 9" in diameter, thick enough it won't bend if you scrape a rock, thin enough to keep rotating mass down, and the center hole is big enough to adapt to.

The caliper link was just a random one I found, and the rotor might have to be turned down a little to fit, but you get the idea...

Just my $.02.

 

This is precisely the info I need. This is a much better direction that will be simpler and cheaper than what I have on hand. Whatever off the shelf parts I can use to make this faster, simpler and easier is the direction I would like to go in.

After all, its a parking brake, not a monster truck pinion mounted brake.