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Chassis Painting

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Allan, Dec 22, 2019.

  1. Dec 22, 2019
    Allan

    Allan Member

    Olympia
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    I am hoping to get unanimous opinions on this subject, what chassis satin black paint is the best one to use, or do I need to use a gloss to get the longest lasting, I want it for all surfaces that get exposed to UV lightand with what primer? If any. Is good ol fashion krylon or rustoleum just fine?
     
  2. Dec 22, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    :clap:

    Good Luck with that. :whistle:
     
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  3. Dec 22, 2019
    Fireball

    Fireball Active Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    I always use Rustoleum Satin Black. It looks great and is really durable. The only downside is it dries slow, so you usually have to wait overnight before handling the part. If you have a spray gun, Home Depot and other stores sell quart cans.
     
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  4. Dec 23, 2019
    IrishCJ6

    IrishCJ6 Member

    Wicklow Ireland
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    I've always used Tractol paints for mine, it's a heavy duty plant/machinery paint that's very tough. So tough you can hit it with a hammer and it wont mark, it's a single pot paint that can be sprayed or brushed on. Not sure if you can get it in the US but if you can use it.
     
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  5. Dec 23, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member

    exploring the...
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    Cheap black paint and fluid film.
     
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  6. Dec 23, 2019
    Allan

    Allan Member

    Olympia
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    This is what I’ve been using for the small parts. Great results
     
  7. Dec 23, 2019
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    I like the POR 15 products, POR15 (because I had it but top coated the last frame with the Rustoleum seemed to work well. Its out back under the shelter waiting it's turn and still looks great.
     
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  8. Dec 23, 2019
    Allan

    Allan Member

    Olympia
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    Has anyone tried this, I just assume it has more pigment and must be more durable right? And I will be blasting frame, so an etching primer underneath?
     

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  9. Dec 23, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I wouldn't use an etching primer. Rustoleum "rusty metal primer" works very well over freshly blasted metal, and rustoleum satin black is very durable as a top coat. Keep it simple with tried and true products. Just expect a day or two between paint and prime, then let it dry for about a week.
    -Donny
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
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  10. Dec 23, 2019
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Volvophilic

    Post Falls, ID
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    That the same stuff I used, but Massey Ferguson Gray, and I added the hardener. No complaints so far. It took some time to set up, but I loved how it laid down.

    [​IMG]

    It’s my understanding that etching primer is only needed if the surface is too smooth for the primer to bite. (Body guys, correct me if I’m wrong.) Sandblasting usually leaves enough of a texture for regular primer to stick. I used Rustoleum Light Gray primer. I have to hit the topcoat pretty hard for it to chip.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
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  11. Dec 23, 2019
    timgr

    timgr Eppur si muove. 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    In terms of hardness, gloss paint will be hardest. Flat paints are made by adding flattener (usually powdered talc) to gloss paints, and the added material makes the surface softer.

    The hot rod guys like black epoxy primer as a general purpose "chassis" paint. Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) adds UV protectant to their primer, since typically epoxies are not very UV tolerant.

    Note that chassis are painted black so they will disappear and not detract from the shiny and curvy sheet metal of most cars. Black is not the toughest pigment - it's carbon black, aka soot. I suspect the aluminum pigment paints are toughest, like Aluthane or Rust Bullet. These are also MCUs (moisture cured urethane) which scavenges moisture from the surface and is quite tough and impermeable.

    Yes, etching primer is most favored by body shops for metal contact, I believe because it cures very quickly and can be top-coated right away. These shops like the fast throughput it provides. Hot rodders prefer epoxy primer as a base coat, from what I've seen. The epoxy primers have a top coat window of about a week, and afterwards must be scuffed before top coating - they get too hard and nothing sticks.

    My usual choice is cheap flat enamel - I have a few dozen partial cans that were discarded by my work, so I need to use it up. Or Aluthane.
     
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  12. Dec 23, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member

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    Etching primer gives great adhesion to bare metal of most any kind typically used under “conventional “ primer to prevent adhesion issues it is useless over any paint no adhesion there. most times I only use it on aluminum cause paint and aluminum don’t play well together. Have used it with various results over galvanized.
     
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  13. Dec 23, 2019
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
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    I have been using VHT CHASSIS and Roll Bar Epoxy in Satin Black. It requires no primer sticks to metal with a 220-400 grit tooth like crazy and has no tendency to chip. I went a different way on my chassis and wish I haddn't.
     
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  14. Dec 23, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs 2019 Sponsor

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    I'm a big fan of this too.
     
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  15. Dec 24, 2019
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
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    I love the DEEP Black color it has and it sticks like the devil.
     
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  16. Dec 24, 2019
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

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    What good choices; I understand that it is better to take time to apply and let dry.
     
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  17. Dec 25, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    I’m with keys5a. Rustoleum rusty metal, then black. Use it all the time in the mill. Give it a few days to dry.
     
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  18. Dec 25, 2019
    supertrooper

    supertrooper Member

    moreno valley, ca
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    I really like that paint. I wish i used it on my frame.
     
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  19. Dec 26, 2019
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
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    The thing about the VHT paint I like is that it can be touched up so easy. Mask off what you don't want Black rub the area with a Gray scotch brite pad wipe clean with Prep-all allow to dry and spray. It blends perfectly and adds more protection. WHile still having my Willys in two major assemblies the Chassis and the Tub (with almost all Dash and Electrical as well as Roll Bar Air tanks and Fuel tank installed even my Fuel Pump and most pumping that attaches to the Tub installed) I had a damn light stand fall over on my Chassis and the Black Iron pipe the stand was made of left a couple of nasty scratches on the Rear Cross member. Well a little Sanding and filling the resulting divots with spot putty and 3 coats of the VHT and it looks great.
     
  20. Dec 26, 2019
    Allan

    Allan Member

    Olympia
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    No one has mentioned Eastwood ceramic? Hmmm
     

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