Figured I'd start a separate thread from my build so this was easier to find in the future. I bought some Warn M2 locking hubs to put on my CJ5. Having more money than time (and working between 50 and 75 hours a week means I don't have much of that either...) I found a cheap set that needed some caring. I've got a full shop at work full of cool tools to use, but I'm trying to keep this as shade tree as possible, mostly because that's all they ever need. Here's where we are starting: Ok, took them into the parts washer to clean them up, but a guy could just as easily use WD40 and lots of rags. After around 50 years of use, that crud can really be on there. Gasket scrapers are nice for cutting through the first layer. First step, and you are going to have to use your imagination here a bit, but we are looking at your lockout bolted onto your hub. Remove the 6 bolts from the outside. There should be a tabbed washer on each one under the crud, so make sure the tabs aren't bent up before wondering why your socket doesn't fit. 9/16" is the size. You might have to give the dial body a smack with a dead blow or a block of wood and a hammer. You can get a nice sized dead blow from Harbor Freight for about $7 and you really should have one anyway. 3/8-16 is the thread size and if a guy wanted to get fancy and replace the bolts with studs I'd use at least a 2.5" long. The hub from back face to the bolt surface with the washers is just a hair under 1.5". Now, with the dial body off, we are looking at the hub body. Again, imagine there is an axle shaft stuck inside that snap ring. Take special note of those dowel pins around the outside of the dial body to the left. Most are removed in this picture, but 5 are in place. There are 12 of them in each hub. They should be firmly in there with old grease, but may not be...so don't loose 'em. A box placed underneath to catch stuff as it falls out is really handy. Easier to find in there then after it goes bounding across the garage floor and into the pile you've been going to clean up next weekend for the last 12 years. Remove the snap rig from the axle shaft and the hub body slides right off. Might need some love from the ol' dead blow here too. Now, time to clean them up. Once you have them looking halfway decent you can see what's actually going on in there. The hub dial has a left hand 4 lead thread. When the hub is in the free position, the locking mechanism is screwed all the way down. When it's in the lock position, it is just about flush with the back lip of the dial body. You can remove the dowel pins and screw the locking mechanism all the way off. Now you can clean it all up a bit better in there. Unfortunately, the allen bolt that retains the dial is staked in (punch between the edge of the head and mating part), so you are really risking trouble trying to get that loose. A guy could use a drill bit to open that punch mark up, but then you risk it all coming loose down the road. If your hubs are in bad shape and need it, by all means do it. Just use some locktite when you are done. On that note, what does a guy do if one of the hubs is stuck and he doesn't want to remove the staked bolt? No problem, all you need is a few chunks of old leather belt, a pair of pliers, and a vice. If you don't have a vice, you could thread two bolts back into the hub and do the same procedure. If you look closely, I wrapped a piece of belt around the two bolts and snugged that into the vice. Now I could carefully work the hub dial back and forth with the pliers to try and get it moving. Unfortunately, someone tried this on the jeep at one point in the past without the leather so one of my dials is a bit marred up. Oh well, it's a Jeep. Once the dial starts to move, squirt some WD40 in there and keep at it. It will eventually loosen up and should turn just fine. Mine was VERY stuck, so keep at it, it will eventually come out this way. Alrighty, someone magically took all the junk off that hub with some 400 grit sand paper and it looks plenty fine to go on our Jeep, so we are going to set that aside. Now for the fun part. The hub body is full of those evil little needle bearings that we should take out, clean, and re-grease. When you flip the hub body over, you'll see a snap ring on the back. That's all that is between you and spending the rest of the afternoon looking for all 51 rollers. Grab that box you used when you took the dial body off and set the hub body inside of it. I like to throw a few paper towels in the bottom, makes it more comfortable for the needle bearings. Take the snap ring off and carefully lift the hub body off of the splined shaft. The rollers should stay in the hub body. Depending on how far your parts washer solution or WD40 got, they may stay put in the old grease pretty well. Or not. Don't ask...#51 is always a real you-know-what to find. The rollers are .090" diameter, I'll get the length later today...just in case you needed to find them on mcmaster-carr or something. A dental pick works really nice to roll them out of there onto your papertowel. Wipe them out and clean out the inside of the hub body. Wipe some grease all the way around the inside of the bearing and put them back in. A pair of tweezers are indispensable for this. Ask the wife first. Or don't, but make double sure they don't smell like grease when you put 'em back. On second thought, $0.99 is cheap insurance to just buy a new pair and keep in the tool box. I like to VERY VERY carefully put another finger tip of grease over the top of the rollers after they are in place, just to be sure they are lubed. Once you get #51 in, there shouldn't be any open space. Good way to double check your counting. All your fingers three times, your toes twice, and the big toe one more time. Slide splined piece back in there and get the snap ring on before those rollers get any bright ideas. That's pretty much it, I plan to use RTV to seal it up, but the gaskets are available or a guy could easily make his own. I know some don't even use a gasket, your call.