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Brake MC question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 1964_cj5, Mar 14, 2008.

  1. Mar 14, 2008
    1964_cj5

    1964_cj5 I'd rather be Jeepin'

    Aiken, South...
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2006
    Messages:
    85
    I got to work replacing my leaky MC last night and everything was going fine until I went to put the new one back on. Now the brake line doesn't line up with the valve coming out of the back of it for some reason. The new one looks identical to the old one, but now the valve is cocked up and on the old one it was cocked down. What's the easiest way to remedy this? Also, in the manual exploded view of the MC, there is supposed to be 2 seals on that end where the valve and the brake light switch are, but there are none on mine. Where can I get these? Could I just use washers? I bet if I had a washer or seal or something on there, the valve would be pointing down and I could reconnect my line. Should I try this or will I have to get new line bent? Anyone else ever had this problem, and how did you go about reconnecting it? I can't wait to get this new one on. The old one leaked all over the place! I got the new one bench bled and ready to go on. :)
     
  2. Mar 14, 2008
    66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    NorthWest Indiana
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2003
    Messages:
    2,069
    pics would help.

    depending on age of brake line, it might be possible to rebend it, or you could add a short section of line.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2008
    1964_cj5

    1964_cj5 I'd rather be Jeepin'

    Aiken, South...
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2006
    Messages:
    85
    I will try to take pics tonight and post them up. It's only off by a couple of inches.
     
  4. Mar 14, 2008
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,020
    Does yours have a fitting like this threaded in the end of the MC?

    [​IMG]

    Only with one connector? If so, you should be able to remove the brake switch, unscrew the bolt:

    [​IMG]

    and rotate the fitting so it matches your brake line.

    The seals are copper washers, you should be able to get them at your local FLAPs, or Walcks always has them.
     
  5. Mar 14, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl Semi-homeless in Florida Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    3,959
    Always replace the copper washers once you loosen them, your life might depend on it! ;)
     
  6. Mar 14, 2008
    1964_cj5

    1964_cj5 I'd rather be Jeepin'

    Aiken, South...
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2006
    Messages:
    85
    Yes I have that same fitting, but doesn't the hole in it need to match up to the hole in the bolt? That is my problem. My old one didn't even have copper washers on it. I will have to pick those up!
     
  7. Mar 14, 2008
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,020
    If you look at the fitting, you will see that the area around the hole is recessed, so it doesn't matter where the hole is. Brake fluid will still flow out of the hole, around the recess and out the brake line, regardless of its orientation.
     
  8. Mar 14, 2008
    lynndiwagon

    lynndiwagon New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2008
    Messages:
    14
    Sorry for the slight change of subject, but how did you get that back mounting bolt out to remove the old MC? Mine has a plate under it and the back bolt hits on the engine before clearing the hole. Thanks.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2008
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,020
    IIRC, I think I had to remove the front bolt first, and then take the back bolt out with the MC. I couldn't remove the bolt from the MC without having it interfere with the engine.
     
  10. Mar 14, 2008
    lynndiwagon

    lynndiwagon New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2008
    Messages:
    14
    I'll give that a try. Thanks Eric.
     

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