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Brake Master Cylinder...

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Malachai, Dec 22, 2008.

  1. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    Anyone have an exploded view diagram of it? I am going to be working on it this week and things would go a little smoother if I had something to work off of...I picked up a repair kit, but forgot to search out a diagram... :D
     
  2. Dec 22, 2008
    WYOMIKE

    WYOMIKE Oct 1971 pic

    Parkman, Wyoming
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  3. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    To be honest, I am not sure which I have, but that appears to be it, thank you very much! :D
     
  4. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    Actually, now that I have had a moment to sit and look at it, it looks like this one bolts on either side of the piston assembly, where mine bolts from the side...are the two similar enough that I can reassemble one by following the other?
     
  5. Dec 22, 2008
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    not all that many parts in there, just watch how it comes apart, if it were me i would go new, if the inside bore has any pits you may be wasting your time, bought a new one for my 55a1, about $20 if i rember right, mine was shot, the whole system actually, new shoes,new master, new wheelcylinders, and all new lines and shoes was around $200 got them at my local parts store believe it or not, was in, in a couple days, need any part #'s pm me, i think i still have the recipt
     
  6. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    I thought about going new, especially since I cannot get the old off of the frame as it currently sits...but then I would also run into the issue that I might not be able to put a new one on if I cannot get the old bolts completely off...so I am actually going to be attempting to rebuild this one on the frame...fun times!
     
  7. Dec 22, 2008
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    had the same problem with mine, one of the bolts was froze up in the master, the welded nut inside the frame came loose, it was a pita, but i got it off(destroyed it) and the new one back in place, shouldnt have to fool with it for a long time:D
     
  8. Dec 22, 2008
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
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    Jun 17, 2008
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    On my ms job, one of the bolts that holds the ms on was very hard to remove. I think it collects mud and moisture behind the plate that is welded to the frame where the bolts screw into. I generally spray everything down with PB Blaster the night before and while I'm under hit parts even if they don't need it. When I removed one of the bolts on my ms the threads were rusted away except the very end where it screws into the frame. When I remove old hardware I try to work the bolt back and forth with lots of PB. Alway try to clean your hardware up with wire wheel, tap and die before installation.

    I wouldn't rebuild a ms on the frame but I would hate to see you break that bolt off. If you do, make sure you get all the grit out of it before you put it back together and remove the lines so you can flush it a couple times. I'm assuming you run a hone through the unit to clean it up?
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2008
  9. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    I sprayed down with PB once before, to no effect...but then, I didnt have a breaker bar at the time either, and now I do...the only thing I really dont like is the fact that there is no room to get a socket wrench in there to remove the bolts, there is barely enough room to get a wrench in there!

    As far as the hone, I plan on it, just got to see if I can get it apart first or not, if not, my mechanic said I can bring it to his shop after the 1st of the year, but he does not know how much he would charge me for putting on the repair kit, said it would be determined by how much work it is to get the thing off the frame first...can we say ouch?
     
  10. Dec 22, 2008
    Don X

    Don X President for Life Staff Member 2020 Sponsor

    San Diego,...
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    I have to agree a new MC is the way to go considering the price. I'd try whatever you have to do to get it the old one off.
     
  11. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    Alright, yall have convinced me. Now, the next question, where would I find one that mounts through two long bolts in the side of the unit. The Diagram shown above is not quite what I have, it looks like it mounts from the front(back?). I have looked around a bit at a few sites, Walcks only carries them for jeeps later than mine according to serial number, and 4wd shows pics of the same one shown by WyoMike above...am I seeing something wrong here?
     
  12. Dec 22, 2008
    w3srl

    w3srl Semi-homeless in Florida Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Look at KRAGE www.jeepdoc.com and you'll have some photos to compare. If yours has the two bolts that bolt the MC to the frame, make sure you get the correct one! One model has both bolt holes bored all the way through the MC and th eother only has one hole that way and the other one is tapped.

    Also your FLAPS should still be able to get a MC for you.
     
  13. Dec 22, 2008
    lynndiwagon

    lynndiwagon New Member

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    I know this is a stupid response, but you do know that you need to remove the floor pan panels to gain easy access to the MS?
     
  14. Dec 22, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    yup, I do know, but, even with the floor pans removed, there is only enough room on the head of the bolt for it to move enough to remove the MC, the engine/transmission is right there otherwise....
     
  15. Dec 22, 2008
    Steelwheels

    Steelwheels New Member

    Central Calif. Coast
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    Jul 22, 2008
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    With patience, the right tools, the right weather or a cozy garage, and :coffee: or :beer:, you can do it. I put a new one on my '65 a year ago. Pretty sure it is the same as yours, two bolts through to the frame. Wasn't "easy" and there wasn't much room, but it can be done.
     
  16. Dec 22, 2008
    Steelwheels

    Steelwheels New Member

    Central Calif. Coast
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    Just went out to the garage to take a look and refresh my memory. Mine has a heat shield above the exhaust pipe and below the mc. Remove that. Then undo the brake lines from the mc and the plunger rod from the pivot. Then remove the 2 big bolts and the plate between the bolt heads and the mc. Also undo the cotter pin fastener at the pivot to remove the plate. At that point you should be able to wiggle the mc out. Then, :beer::beer: Anybody, sound about right?
     
  17. Dec 22, 2008
    peter

    peter Member

    Roseville, CA.
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    Aug 26, 2008
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    I have the original master cylinder from 67 and it looks like the drawning from Wyomike. I did install a d30 with disk breaks up front and had to have pressure valves put in both front and rear in line. I am wondering what others think about if there would be further improvement to put in a new MS? What woulld be the correct one to go with given the d30 disk set up?? It does stop decently at the moment but if it could be improved with a new MS that would be worthwhile.

    Peter
     
  18. Dec 22, 2008
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yep, a '61 will have a single cylinder. I think '67 was the first year that the DOT mandated a dual cylinder for safety.

    The dual cylinder is better, if you have that. If not, you could upgrade.

    My experience - rebuilt master cylinders don't last very long. I would always use new master and wheel cylinders, unless it made the difference between paying the rent or not.
     
  19. Dec 23, 2008
    kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

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    here is the part # for the MC BB mc2796, sorry dont know what brand it is but it should be a number that can be cross matched, the single resivor system is nothing to play around with, one busted line=no brakes, other than parking brake or downshifting, like said mine was a pita to get off, i ended up taking a airchisle to the cast mastercylinder and removeing it in pieces, not the best way to do it but efficent
     
  20. Dec 23, 2008
    Malachai

    Malachai Total Newbie! :D

    Plattsmouth, Ne
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    if I wanted to upgrade to the dual, what steps would I have to take? Keep in mind that I have never welded a thing in my life, and have no access to a welder to do so...
     

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