75 CJ5 Clutch Linkage Help

I finally got around to taking the Jeep off-road on Saturday only to get into the woods, into 4-LO, and get it stuck in gear. Once I got it parked where I could take a look at it, I found that the clutch linkage was way loose and out of wack. I tightened it up and got it back to shifting and apparently tightened it up so good that now what I thought were transmission issues seem to be possibly as simple as a really bad clutch linkage setup.

The issue is at some point in my Jeep's past (I'm assuming PO since the part looks new) the linkage from the bellcrank to the clutch fork has been replaced with some sort of Home Depot turnbuckle that's not even close to the OEM setup.

My question to you guys is: is it worth it to buy the 125 dollar linkage kit to replace it all, or might I be able to get away with replacing just the rod and bushings that seem to be missing? I've tried to narrow down the parts list and so far I think I need 2 bushings, 2 clips, 2 boots, a lower clutch rod (fixed, ball joint, or adjustable?), and clutch pedal return spring.

Any thoughts?

Picture: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vfeepz6lcici0j4/2013-08-27 00.03.01.jpg

 

Looking at the setup you have, a new linkage is in order. The stock linkage when new works ok but may have a problem when off road and the frame starts to flex causing the rod to the clutch fork to fall out. One way to help this is to put the rod through the fork and put a nut and washer on each side of it. Also the use of heim joints at each end of the bellcrank. Do a search for clutch linkage and you should find lots of information on this. Take a look at upgrading to a hydraulic setup also. That is the way I plan to go next time . Good luck.

 

Just to amplify on what Rusty wrote, the two main liabilities for the bellcrank clutch linkage are the ball-joint pushrod ends, and the fact that the CJ-5 frame twists a lot when one wheel is stuffed and the other is hanging.

You can deal with the ball-joint issue by replacing them with Heim joints. This is an easy modification that I've done to my Jeeps. If you use Heim joints, you still need the plastic cups that turn on the bellcrank ends, and the grease seals. Everything else doesn't really wear out, so you won't need new unless there are parts missing. (Looking at your picture, you pretty much need all of it. The engine-side bracket has been modified with a welded threaded rod, and that will have to be replaced. Your only source may be a junkyard or parts Jeep).

The twisty frame is not so easily addressed. Keeping the clutch linkage properly adjusted and in good shape will help some, but if you get really twisted up the clutch will still cease to function. A hydraulic clutch conversion is an effective remedy, but they seem to be rather troublesome. Certainly the mechanical linkage will work fine ... except in the maximally twisted-up situation. If you are twisted up and stall, you are hopefully in low range, and you should be able to start the engine in gear and drive out of the situation. But that's not ideal...

 

Well it sounds like my first order of business will be to find a bellhousing bracket since mine has been hacked to pieces. That may be easier said than done around here.

It looks like the bracket can be found for the 76-86 in a kit like this:

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/4-wheel-drive-hardware/clutch-linkage/7205129-kit493003.html

Is there any way that would fit or were the linkages redesigned completely in '76?

 

(Nearly) everything changes for the 1976 model year. The dimensions won't be the same. You may be able to make it work.

I would inventory the pieces I need, and then advertise on the WTB board here, and maybe also at JeepForum and on the Willystech parts list. Very likely that J&W in Antelope CA has what you need. That will be retail prices though - private party is always cheaper.

There was a '73-ish CJ at the pick-a-part in Billerica MA last time I was there - likely had the pieces you needed. You could try car-part.com - it does not list clutch linkage, but if you try some other parts, it could give you leads for yards near you that have or have parted CJs - you want '73-75.

Maybe R&P (Oregon) has some of the pieces or a lead on some.

It would be good to put your location and Jeep details in your profile or in your sig - that would help us to make more specific recommendations.

 

Take a look on ebay , may be some on there that may work. You could place an add in the want to buy section an see what happens. Maybe a member that has changed his out might have the whole works ? Again , good luck.

 

Well I got lucky. I purchased a radiator from a guy locally (well, sort of local..2.5 hours away) a few weeks back. I dug up his number and he had everything I needed. 40 bucks for the entire linkage setup. I may still need to buy some boots, bushings, and clips (and the parts need some sanding and painting) but I'm excited to have everything I need (and some spares).

Thanks guys! This place is so much more helpful than any other forum I've ever been a part of.

 

I suppose I'm still going to need the bushings, boots, and clips for the bell crank ends. Other than that I think I have all the parts I'll need to revert to a stock setup:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5u51476h0q6958f/2013-08-27 13.40.36.jpg

Someone correct me if I'm wrong there.

If I wanted to do the heim joint upgrade, what would be the best source for the joints? McMaster-Carr?

Does anyone have a source for a write up (or even pictures) of this mod? I'm a little confused as to what is being modified..maybe because my setup is so far from stock and I haven't seen a stock setup in person yet.

Thanks.

 

You are a lucky guy!

Looks like the only part that is missing is the bracket on the frame, but you have that.

McMaster-Carr, yep. They are great. I used the joints with the 3/8"-24 female threaded joints. The short rod to the throwout bearing arm is the most problematic one. If you have a bench grinder or similar, you can grind off the crimped end of the rod and then thread it to accept the Heim joint. I think most buy a piece of 3/8"-24 all-thread and just replace the shaft part. I did not replace the top end of the long rod, but I guess you could use the same technique there.

No write-up, sorry.

Do you understand how the parts bolt on?

Your main objective is to replace the ball joint on the short pushrod. That joint wears out, and then the rod falls off somewhere on the trail.

 

Found this picture in another thread, on another forum ...



might help...

 

That picture's not working. Assuming JF doesn't allow directly linking to their hosted pictures.

I have a pretty good understanding of how it all bolts together. You're saying replace the rod circled in red with a piece of 3/8"-24 all thread and replace the ball joint end circled in blue with a 3/8"-24 female threaded heim joint?

I apologize if I'm missing something..this is my first project vehicle and my first vehicle older than 1998, so I'm piecing this together as I go. Thanks for the help.

 

Pic should be ok now.

Nothing with circles showing, but it sounds like you have the idea.

 

Sorry.



Confused on how the end that attaches to the fork could be converted to a heim joint.

 

It's not. Change the blue circled joint, and keep the adjusting nut. There is supposed to be a spring from the fork to the bellhousing (? IIRC) that holds the adjusting nut in the fork. The end of the adjusting nut sits in the pocket in the fork, and the spring keeps it from falling out.

You can reuse the red circled rod by grinding off the crimps that hold the factory ball joint to the rod, then threading that end of the rod. You'll need a die and die holder. Or you can replace that rod with a piece of all-thread. I had to buy the 3/8"-24 die, but I'd rather buy a tool and use the material that I have, than buy more material.

The picture above is the long rod for a later model Jeep. I think the long rod is not so much of a problem, becasue it does not move around as much as the short rod. The short rod moves every time the engine moves wrt the frame, so it wears out rather quickly. And the ball joints are of much lower quality than Heim joints. It's easy to replace the bottom ball joint on the long rod with an additional Heim joint. The top joint will take a little more doing.

 

Just a question, What is the condition of the pocket in the fork itself ? The reason I ask is if it is worn out the adjuster will keep pushing through and proper adjustment will be hard to maintain .

 

I actually thought about that yesterday when Tim mentioned the pocket of the fork. I haven't had a chance to climb under there and look, but my linkage parts came in yesterday and now I'm just waiting for the bushings, threaded rod, and heim joint. So I should know this weekend. I'll keep you guys updated.

 

The pocket of the fork in my 73 wore completely out and the adjusting nut pushed completely through. I welded a nut to an L bracket, filled the nut with a bead of weld. Then i shaped it with a die grinder inside and out. Welded it to the worn out fork while still in the Jeep and it is good as new.