69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Any plans to take your jeep to the High Lakes when its finished?

 

That would be a great shake down. May be too much of the shakes for the first go, long way to walk if she fails me...

Philbrook would be a nice outting. .May be just a first ride into long lake the easy way... I don't know. I was last in there in my bone stock ranger in about 05.

Yes. It is a must go.

Ever see how that group squeezes in those Duce and half with the generator trailer to power their camp? Never seen them on the move, just when they were in and camped.

The initial descent to the right isn't for me, did it in my ranger once, no buttons left on the seat after that, but the stair step and the descent into Morris Lake have my interest for the jeep. Had to stack rocks for my ranger at the step. Almost got custom by crunchy leading into the step that day.

Haven't been to Morris lake in 30 years, dad and I packed a raft and our fishing gear in there when I was about 10.

Back in 95 we tried to get in there on July 4 and there was 5 feet of snow at the gold mine... Had a picnic at philbrook instead. Was about 110 down in the valley. It was beautiful.

We used to winch over the drifts back in the 70s in our Powerwagon in spring to be the first ones in. Brook trout were amazing back then, I think it was spring valley.

My last two f150s have running boards, I don't want to leave them on the rocks, I haven't taken them off, nor drug them off by thinking I can go in, plus there was a lot of narrow brush if I remember right. My Cadillac white paint might not like the pin striping from the brush.

Exciting to think about it.

FYI, my uncle likes to play there in the winter in his toyota crawler that has on board air, the 4.3l gm conversion and 35s I think. Something about 15ft of snow and getting stuck or swallowed by a hidden creek that I shy from.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

 

It's been 15 years since I was up there, sure much has changed. I moved away from Chico in 99, part of me would like to go back. A run to Philbrook would be an easy first outing.

Last time I was there I saw a group with a huge military style tent with a wood burning stove on the Northwest side of Grassy Lake. The descent into Morris is do able, my buddy did it last time we were there in his '72 CJ5 with 33's. I opted out as I had just joined the flop club 2 weeks before South of Grassy.

That same summer we got stopped going into Spring Valley in early July by huge snow drifts and ended up camping on the side of the road. I wasn't brave enough to tackle the snow with one vehicle and no winch. This was one of those, "hey lets go wheel'n" at 10 pm trips. I was surprised how many people were up there at midnight when we arrived.

We used to make snow runs from Butte Meadows to Philbrook. Pulled out many ill equipped vehicles from the snow banks on those runs.

I would love to go back there again and spend more than a weekend.

Anyway your build looks great, looks like you are moving right along.

 

Mike,

Thanks! The flop club is one I'm trying to not become a card-carrying member...

Haven't been to Grassy Lake.

So, this group: Friends of the High Lakes is doing a good job keeping things open.

Friends of the High Lakes

I'll check them out when I'm ready to head back in for OHV fun...

Dane

 

Haha, you know it. Once you are a member, it's for life! The spot where I flopped was lame, just not paying attention.

From what I remember, Grassy is exactly as it sounds. I have checked out Friends of the High Lakes before, looks like a good group with lots of information that wasn't available all those years ago. Now I can't wait to get back up there, maybe next summer.

 

Re: 69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep' - update 22-March-2014

More progress this week.

The T98 / T18 transfer case / Warn OD progress coming along:
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/show...e-T18-D18-and-Overdrive&p=1147435#post1147435

Managed to pull the motor from the frame to start wire wheeling and fixing cracks.

Will be boxing frame as well.

Looking to weld some nuts on the frame so bolts come up under rather than needing to get a wrench on them in the box... thoughts here?

more pictures:

My helper. Learning safety stuff such as keeping body away from heavy objects and other important stuff like being able to move away and expecting stuff to roll, etc.


Note the crust just visible in the bell housing. What a PITA to clean out. Scraper, wire brush, gunk-off and a lot of scrubbing.


Pulled clutch and flywheel off. Flywheel looks excellent, no grooving. Can this just be media blasted or should I have it turned?


Freshly assembled cardboard freight motor stand. Seems just right for this job (economically anyways). Always need a BFH near by...


T14 Transmission, Bell adapter, T18 transfer case and cross member lying on the ground. Soda can is the 'eye poker preventer'.


Motor is gunked. Particularly fond of the mud dauber's nest.


Used some gunk-off and a scraper and a couple different wire brushes to clean surfaces.
Mounted on stand and move to shed for later.

Novak headers came from Brown Santa. Will be now able to mock a power steering pump mount (fab needed). Can use the belt drive for the smog pump and most of the smog pump's mount for this purpose.

Frame work commences.

Anyone have a stencil set (name of / font / etc.) that I can use to repro the stock numbers on my leaf springs and frame?

 

Cleaning?............quarter car wash after dark!.........LOL.......I like your daughter getting her hands dirty...........builds character and she gets to spend some quality time with you!
On the subject of welded nuts inside the boxed area........you almost would have to have everything installed and put in place before you closed that off which can be tricky and real permanent and perhaps even have some provisions built in for future stuff......Can be done , just have to plan ahead................
On boxing the chassis you should leave some 1/2 round 3/4" radius notches at the base of that plate every foot or 18 " to allow moisture to escape , and in some cases that notch can be utilized for access to the nut?..............On the clutch , if your replacing the disc & PP I would have them dust it off...................

Dane , looks good!

 

I didn't mention that I had to scrub in the shower with dawn soap and a bristle brush to get the chunks of grease and goop from my furry legs as shorts were in vogue for the day. As the gunk-off and a high pressure nozzle blasted it to gunk-on my exposed skin.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not quite the sight I want to visualize! (LOL)

 

HA! Didn't think of that. There are many images burned in my mind I'd like to 'unthink'... this too may be yet another.

----

Another thought now crossing my mind (ooooh squirrel):

I looked a few threads re: engine mounts for the 225.

Was thinking I'd find poly mounts, but one thread says 'too much transmitted noise' (vvviiibbrrraaaatttitiiiooooonh)...

Another says Eric from Novak says to also look at stock '82 Buick v6 mounts (so I did, and looks like the Riv has mounts that are similar, but may be different - I need to pull mine to double check the 'shape' - and the price is good).

Another says 'poly mounts now reformulated' to isolate and dampen and not deteriorate... (this might be like 'under new management').

The AA and Novak mounts - whew, look good, but not really going to pass the budget litmus test at this point - and I'm not moving mounts on the frame, just thinking while I have it all apart, it be smart to replace the old ones.

SO...

What say you? Go with stock rubber? Go with new fandangled-refangled Poly? Anyone have a Napa part number for a direct 'old style' replacement (or any FLAPS for that matter), or a part number for a poly version?

thoughts?
regrets?

----
Other things making me pause slightly...

I changed the engine oil a bit ago before I parked it before dis-assembly. It was dirty but no shavings. Compression was good (somewhere here in this thread - wasn't overly off from one to another and given that it needs valve guide seals and likely to be run some more to clean up...).

I'm going to drain and pull the pan next. I'll pull the valve covers then too. I'm needing to replace the valve guide seals while I have it apart, and was thinking of making me a 'spark-plug-valve-inflator' ... since I don't have the proper valve spring tools ... I'm looking for a good way to do this safely (or is that a pipe dream)?

While I have it down this far, any other 'items' I might want to inspect (thinking may be of pulling the timing cover and water pump). I'm not all that interested in a full rebuild due to the cost-benefit ratio (sbc likely a much better option).

I'll add pertronix and likely a 12si alternator (the new loom can handle the added amps) after all of that - near the end...

Dane

 

Man that is allot of questions .............I'll take a poke at some answers and hopefully some of the other folks will chime in.............I've always ran the stock side mounted motor mounts........If you already have the stock metal mounts welded to the frame that I think is the best way to go............Changing stem seals while on the motor is OK by blowing air into the cylinder but you still have to have a fixture that allows you to compress the valve retainer and valve spring to get the valve keepers off.......Not sure if you can even find the old stock slip over seals anymore..........most shops use a crimp on seal that the head surface at the stem needs to be machined to accept. Timing cover and chain and oil pump look see is always a good Idea.

 

deleted - wrong thread.

 

Wait, you're supposed to wait until after dark?

On the motor mount rubber, I have always had good luck with the stock replacement parts.

 

Laughing. When I picked up the T98 combo i took it around the corner to the wash. The owner was there. Didn't say anything... Gave me a Hey, howszit goin... I guess the $10 I spent attempting to degrease it over rode the fact I fouled the return trap.


Fired my phaser at my abacus and it now hoses my grammar and spelling

69 Dauntless CJ5 - The Heep
Resto-Mod
(heep and jeep are four letter words)
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?99079-69-Dauntless-Project-the-Heep

 

Excellent - will do. Many thanks.

 

Re: 69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep' - update 22-March-2014

Looks like I wasn't the only one who had gunk issues on the back of my motor!! You also find any hair in the back of your engine? I found quite a few tufts in mine... mehh

EDIT: Also Danefraz, I dont know if you have a line on Buick parts for your engine, but I found these guys who are pretty fantastic for all those hard to find OEM quality parts! http://www.taperformance.com/

 

Re: 69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep' - update 22-March-2014

no hair here. Mice and other critters died and nested elsewhere. Bones, carpet pile, and stench was the soup of the day...

 

Hows your build coming along Dane?

 

End of October 2014... Build is stalled out as other honey do items have happened. Hunting season (deer) is closing this weekend. Bushes need one last haircut and a family vacation will slow me for another month.

first or next todo is my 11" brake swap. Then I should be coming back up from the ground to rolling again.

The the frame is bare, save a few odd pieces of brakeline I've not re bent to replace