Brakes?

Well I had an appointment today to get the jeep inspected. The garage was 4 miles away so I figured I would flat tow to the appointment. About 1.5 miles into the tow I noticed the engine on the tow vehicle working harder. At about 2 Miles one of the wheels locked on the jeep. All wheels were very hot and smoked some mainly the rears. After letting it cool off I brought it home and now need advice. I have 4 wheel disc and bought the M/C from Herm and told him I was running 4 wheel disc so I am assumed the residual pressure valves were 2 lb. how can I check them? Or could it be that I didn't cut the old push rod on the brake pedal that goes into the M/C enough when I did the switch? When I pump the brakes the wheels are hard to turn by hand or is that not a fair test to see if the system is holding to much pressure? Also I'm running a speedway adjustable proportioning valve. What would you guys check first? Thanks in advanced

 

it started to pull fine 1.5 miles problem the 2 miles major problem? was the transfer in N with gear box in 1st?
I assume that the tires are match set along with axles?

 

tires match. gear box in n . transfer in n . I think as the brakes heated up things expanded

 

I'd crack the lines and see how much pressure is present, if any.
prtoect your eyes while doing this just in case.
if you have a pressure build-up problem, then something is wrong in the m/cyl I suppose.

 

Since you said all the wheels were hot.. I am thinking the master cylinder is the culprit. Perhaps it has 15lb residual valves. I'm not sure about the push rod.. as long as the master cylinder push rod comes out fully when you depress the pedal, it should be ok. If I remember right, there is a spring to pull the brake pedal back into depressed state.

 

I cracked the bleeder on the front and rear wheels and enough pressure was there to push fluid about 6 inches up a 1/8 in. tube seemed like a little more in the rear. Now the wheels spin freely so it must be the M/C or proportioning valve. If I take out the M/C where are the residual valves? And same ? for the adjustable speedway proportional valve. Can I just remove them and put 2lb in-line valves in?

 

If you bought the M/C from Herm, I'd contact him.

 

I contacted speedway their proportioning valve has no residual valves. I keep getting no answer at Herms #

 

OK I talked to Herm and he said a lot of people using his kit to go with 4 wheel disc are having this problem. He recommended to pull out the residual pressure valve and see if that works with just the proportioning valve. If I need to pump brakes put in-line one in.

 

Sounds like a good solution to me. I'd put in a inline one anyway.. 2lbs.

 

I was looking under mine today and noticed the push rod going into the M/C has a lot of play is that bad.????

 

Not if you have good pedal and the brakes work good.. how far down does the pedal go before you start getting brakes?