1973 232: Should I Use The "i" Terminal On The Starter Solenoid?

Read through this, and it helped..: 75 Cj5 Solenoid Question

Still have a question though, and trying to understand wiring decisions the previous owner made..

Any reason I wouldn't want to run a wire from the I terminal to the Coil? 16 or 14 awg (or other)?

My jeep has always been hard to start, but I have attributed that to pretty much a non functioning choke on the single barrel.

Adding this isn't going to hurt is it?

 

What does the circuit diagram in the TSM say? Do you have the '73 TSM? I do not, but the '72 or '74 circuit should be the same. My memory says that the factory location for the starter solenoid is on the inner fender, not the firewall.

I would point out that the Delco points ignition is different from the Prestolite ignition used in 1975 - so don't follow a thread about the 1975 ignition too closely. The Prestolite ignition uses no ballast resistor, and thus may do away with the I terminal. There were otherwise-identical starter solenoids made for these Jeeps (and other cars) with no I terminal. The solenoid with an I and S terminal will work as a replacement for either application.

Looking at the '73 diagram for the Wagoneer (here http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/73/73_FSJ_WiringDiagramPage2.jpg ) the I terminal connects to both the coil and the voltage regulator. I would guess that the CJ is wired similarly.

 

I would run one and you don't have to run a wire all of the way to the coil, just to the coil side of the ballast resistor mounted right next to the solenoid.

 

If the relay doesn't have an R and S mark on the primaries it's a basic selonoid without the bypass. In this case you don't want to bypass your ballast resistor because you want the resitor in ciruit while running. Easy test is to see what you have. A basic unit (non RS) will have a slight resistance between the primaries with nothing hooked up to the solenoid. The RS type of solenoid is used to bypass your ballast resistor durring start only.

Also, if you don't know, verify the coil doesn't have an internal resistor. Sometimes it's stated on the side of the coil.

 

Easy to test ohms resistance in coil with ohm meter.

 

The coil is an Accell Super Stock 8140 , with the following specs:

Primary Resistance
1.400 ohms
Secondary Resistance
9.2K ohms

When i put the multimeter on the posts, it registers 1.4

My ballast resistor measures 1.8

So... correct me if I am wrong... in my scenario, i don't need the ballast resistor as the coil has a resistor built in?

So... if that's correct, just delete the ballast, wire straight to the coil and not worry about the I terminal?

(edit about 30 minute later)
lots of other posts say to run the resistor... can't find the instruction manual on the holley website... think ill just leave as is, but will explore that I side and test out the solenoid tomorrow to see what type I have.

thx folks

 

The description on Jeggs says this coil does not include a ballast resistor. The primary wire in the coil will always have some resistance, and a "hot" coil typically has a lot of primary turns using fine wire, so 1.4R does not seem like a high value. Also, the applications Accel lists for this coil have a ballast resistor, i.e. a '68 Dodge Coronet, so it seems unlikely it could be used without a ballast resistor with points ignition. It'll work without a ballast resistor, at least for a while, but I would use a ballast resistor for better points longevity.

 

I agree.

I quick search and I found that the ballast should be about 1.5 ohm and the coil should be about 1.5 ohm to make a total of 3 ohms. Sounds like your oil doesn't have the internal resistor. Now on to your relay.

You already checked and you have a slight resistance (continuity) through the primaries so that relay doesn't have a bypass which is typical for those firewall units so just wire the resistor inline with the coil and live with fact you may have a weak spark when cranking the starter. I think there is a way to wire up a diode to serve this purpose but I've never done this. This may improve your starting problem.

 

After reading about the diode solution it seems easy enough to do. You can run a 3Amp diode from the starter side of the secondary to the positive side of coil bypassing the resistor. The band of the diode should be on the coil side. This allow current to flow directly to the coil when the starter is cranking but not back to the starter when not cranking. A microwave oven diode would work.

This is for a Ram truck but same concept.

Electrical System:The Starter plus "R" & "S" Terminals - MightyRam50.net

 

The wiring of a D50 truck is not the same as a Jeep.

If you want to run the coil on full battery voltage while starting, use the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. It's there for that purpose. You do not need a diode in that circuit. Make sure you have the right part, a Standard Ignition SS581 or equivalent. The wiring path for this is shown in the factory wiring diagram I linked to above.

 

I realize it's not the same but it sounds like he wants to understand what's going rather than just follow a diagram. These things are usually bastardized and it's good to understand the different options.

 

Just for clarification if anyone stumbles on this thread in the future.

- Coil posts registers 1.4 ohm
- Ballast resistor measures 1.8 ohm
- I did not test the solenoid for resistance on the posts
- I will keep the ballast resistor



re: solenoid wiring, I will stick with the "S" and "I" terminology, as that's consistent with the ford style solenoids...


I have seen some replacement ford styles that eliminate the "I" connector entirely.



Since I have the dual p;ost, I've been going off diagrams such as the ones below...
so right now (without testing) I assume my "I" will act as a "I" is suppose to and carry full battery voltage when the key is in the cranking posistion
(will this ease my crappy 1 barrel / no choke starts...??? probably not, but we will see)

thx for the info folks...

 

Nice summery. I confused the 'I' post with what I usually refer to as the 'R' post on the starter mounted solenoids. Sorry about that.