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1972 CJ-5 Almost Restoration

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by pritchaj2000, Jul 16, 2010.

  1. Feb 10, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Wiring progresses. Not as hard as it looks, or sounds. But it takes time - at least it's taking me time. Having all the wires marked is making it easer, but I still spend a fare amount of time scratching my head and wondering if I'v got it right.

    The horn is a perfect example. The wiring harness has a "horn" wire that's part of the front wires. But it's one wire, the horn has 2 spade connectors. After staring at it, and double checking both the diagram form Rebel and the factory schematic I was left clueless. A quick call to Rebel - on a weekend solved the problem - just run a ground to the other post. The fuse block has a relay for the horn and it's triggered with the ground wire that you run up the column. Rebel also let me know they would be at the workshop late this week, so calling after 8:00pm would probably get some one that could answer a question. That is customer service! :)

    So the horn is wired, along with the lights on the grill. I added a relay upgrade to the harness for the head lights. And ran dedicated ground wires to each corner of the harness.

    Not sure if I'v got this part right or not. So feel free to comment and point me in the right direction.

    The battery positive (+) will run to the starter solenoid, with a branch wire running to the circuit breaker. The breaker is rated to trip at 100 Amp. From the breaker, power runs to the buss and then to the main power wire in the harness as well as a dedicated 12 gauge wire that runs to a fusible link and then to the headlight relays. (Also have a 30 Amp breaker mounted next to the headlight relays)

    The dedicated ground wires also originate from the buss. When a ground is needed, I pealed back the insulation and soldered on a wire to run out as a ground.

    I mounted the buss behind the battery to try to keep everything clean. Im planning on using a gel battery - if I understand correctly they don't gas off like normal batteries. So it should limit the potential corrosion on the buss. The circuit barker mounts just to the side of the battery.

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    A little look at building the conduit.

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    Couldn't find the parts to rebuild the bulb sockets. So I played around with some solder… Seems to have worked well.
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    Last but not least, if you are looking for one of these. NAPA has them but finding them in the system is a bit of a PITA. Just ask them to look up 2-1000.
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  2. Feb 12, 2013
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Messages:
    1,532
    awesome work... subscribed
     
  3. Feb 12, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,484
    Very nice. Where did you get the woven conduit? Is it split or do you have to feed the wires through it?
     
  4. Feb 12, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Thanks ReJeep.
     
  5. Feb 12, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    I got if form WireCare.com. It's the PET, Tightweave product. Not split so you have to feed it through. Once you get the hang of it it's fairly easy - kind of like force feeding a snake. Shove the wire in, then compress the conduit pinch at the far end and stretch the conduit.
     
  6. Feb 28, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Lighting continues - Tail light and back up light installed.

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    And the front side marker lights
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    I will admit I'm thinking of not installing the rear side marker lights. Something about drilling a 1 1/2 inch hole in the fresh paint has me a little wary.





    Have a little bit to do to the starter relay, then the engine bay is complete and I can move onto the dash
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    And last but not least my puppy stopped by to check on the progress of "his jeep". From the smile on his face I think he is happy with the overall progress.
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  7. Feb 28, 2013
    toy89yota

    toy89yota Member

    ND
    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2008
    Messages:
    70
    Wow, your work is immaculate. The Jeep looks new.
     
  8. Mar 1, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Thanks toy89yota. Although I think the pictures are making it look slightly better than it actually is. :p
     
  9. Mar 5, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Not a lot of photos to show for it - but fixed a lot of "stupid mistakes' this weekend. At least it's done and best I can test at the moment done and working....

    Tail lights and backup lights mounted
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    Finished up the starter solenoid and regulator install and wire. I "think" i got that worked out correctly. If not I guess I'll do it again.
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    And last but not least, started to clean up the gauges. Getting ready to wire up the dash. The speedo cleaned up well using a little cutting compound on the dial surfaces to work of the 40 years of oxidation. Then new paint on the needle to make it look new. Finishing up the outer ring this week after work. Then it's on to the oil and ampere gauges.
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    I'm not planning on using the ampere gauge - but I need it to fill the hole until I find a suitable replacement. That should prove to be a good challenge.
     
  10. Mar 5, 2013
    2manytoys

    2manytoys Member

    minnesota
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2007
    Messages:
    282
    Nice. I think they made a clock in some cj7 that might fit that hole.
     
  11. Mar 7, 2013
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2010
    Messages:
    1,001
    You can splice the 2 wires together where the ammeter was and install a voltmeter powered off any 12v keyed source.
     
  12. Mar 7, 2013
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2005
    Messages:
    197
    Nice work man!!!!
     
  13. Mar 8, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Just so I make sure I understand. I simply run a keyed 12v power lead from say the fuse box. Seems so simple in comparison. Thats very helpful! :stout:
     
  14. Mar 10, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Still to cold to do the last of the painting and assembly on the dash and steering. So I thought I'd tackle the last of the major mechanicals. The Dana 44 outer bearings and seals. They have ben slowly seeping onto my rims for the last year, and it was starting to annoy me.


    Getting the axles out took a little persuasion, but with a little leverage I managed to get them out without bending the brake backing plates.


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    Ordered the Timken Set 10 bearings from 4wd as well as the seals. Bearings came in last week - and the seals ship direct from Timken so they have not showed up yet. Typical!


    Removing the bearing retainer is a PITA. Drill a 1/4 in hole in both sides of the retainer and start whacking it with a chisel. They never split for me, but they did start to slide off after a fare amount of persuasion. Only managed to miss the chisel once - dam that hurt.


    I'll get a local shop to press off the old bearing and press on the new seal and bearing next weekend. At least thats the plan...
     
  15. Mar 25, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Axles bearings pressed in and axles installed. All buttoned up and no leaks! At least for now, only driving will show if I actually did it right…


    Ordered the clutch linkage kit from Quadratec, they have it on sale for $59.99. For that price I could not pass it up. So its time to upgrade from the cable clutch to the linkage…

    Install was very straight forward, one bracket bolts on to the bell housing and the other attaches some ware. I say some ware because I'v seen examples of it on the tub, on the tub hat channel and on special brackets mounted off the side of the frame. I decided to mount it on the tub - simple solution and the frame rail on my reply tub does not extend far snuff forward to use that.

    It's mocked up now and will get painted this weekend if the weather ever gets above 50.

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    And on a side note I need to move my brake lines - again! :mad: This will be the 3rd or 4th time I'v had to bend up lines from the master cylinder.
     
  16. Mar 30, 2013
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    4,572
    Just a note - I tend to bend that last section around MC's last so that everything that needs to fit in (large stuff wise) is in and I can snake around stuff. I also like having a Union in the area so I can pull MC's and work on them easier.
     
  17. Apr 1, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Couple of shiny bit on over the weekend. Starting to look complete - aside form the lack of a windshield.
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    Picked up a pare of the "stainless" hold down latches - wow are they flimsy looking compared to the originals. They will do for now, but I'll be on the look out for a better pair.
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    Was finally warm enough to start painting agin, so the prop shafts got painted along with a couple of other items. Including my new clutch linkage. I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone who still has the cable clutch.
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    Started working the pitman arm on. Need to look up the torque speck for this. It doesn't look like it's on far snuff.
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    Nice shiny prop shaft with new joints and straps.
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    I should point out that at this point my weekend started to go down hill, fast!
    1st, while pushing in the u-joint caps on the front shaft I dropped a roller bearing. Didn't know it until I had the cap seated and cracked the cup.
    So then I started mounting the carb. Guess I didn't pay attention when I bent the rule lines because it's to far back and points to the side of the carb. Not the front. Luckily I had just enough tube left over to bent one more line from the pump up to the carb. And was good enough to kink the line on it's last bend. Do you see a trend with me and bending lines?
    With all that out of the way, I figured I'd move away from the Jeep and do some blasting - if I was having a destructive weekend I figured I'd destroy some more rust. Boy was I wrong. After changing the oil in the compressor, and compressor engine I gave it a quick pul and watched a steady stream of gas pore out the bottom of the carb. Guess that will need rebuilding!


    At that point I packed it in, went home and watched a movie.
     
  18. Apr 3, 2013
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2012
    Messages:
    947
    That jeep looks fantastic. The rear driveshaft prob could use a CV at t-case end and point the pinion at the t-case though.
     
  19. Apr 3, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
    Messages:
    188
    Thanks fhoehle!

    I'm afraid you may be right. It's only a 2 1/2 in lift, so I'm hopping it settles once all the systems are in and I can bounce it around a little. I did drop the t-case 1/2in, but that was more to prevent the tub from rubbing the t-case. And I cant drop the t-case any further or I throw off my new clutch linkage. (Some where in this statement there is a lesson about the pit-fals of fabrication and restoration).

    I think I'll start looking for a CV "just in case".
     
  20. Apr 3, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
    Messages:
    4,484
    You can take a little of that driveshaft angle out with a pair of castor shims. Most lift springs have those already installed on the rear springs. If you go this route don't buy aluminum shims, steel only.
     

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