1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

1969 CJ5 project

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by alex211, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. Oct 7, 2009
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288

    36" to the insides of the fender wells.

    The angle iron that frames the tailgate opening is about 1/16" thick-- so the tailgate opening is going to be about 35 7/8"
     
  2. Oct 7, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Thank you. Now I need to move it together about a 3/8 inch and it will be good. That explains why the rear of the tub is 3/8 of an inch wider than the front.
     
  3. Oct 7, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    So the frame is twisted a little, the passenger front frame rail sits about an inch higher than the drivers side. I measure the frame in some spots and it seems to start to bend up at about the middle and ends up an inch high in the front. Since I plan on taking it down to the bare frame can I just take the bare frame to a body shop to have them straiten it back out? thanks for all the help
     
  4. Oct 7, 2009
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288
    I live by the idea that anything that isn't human can be fixed. I'm sure the frame can be straightened.

    Mine is a bit of a rust-bucket jalopy too. I have put alot of time & effort into it. I still fail at not feeling a bit of pain when I see a MUCH more pristine CJ, that someone has merely had to 'dust off' in order to bring it to the 'pristine' state it's in. I urge you to consider conserving your time, energy & resources for a CJ that will require alot less 'dusting off', than this. In my expereince it is worth the wait...

    Now if you tell me that there is some sentimental value, to you, in this Jeep-- I fully understand your undertaking! :D

    I certainly do not wish to take any wind out of your sails... if you must forge ahead with this CJ, I'm here to help!
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2009
  5. Oct 8, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    So I have a plan. This weekend I am getting some angle iron and some 18 gauge sheet metal at the metal supply shop. I'm going to brace the top rail of the tub with the angle iron across and side ways to keep it straight. Then what left of the tub will be lifted off the frame and set on a table of some sort.

    I got the front clip off of the frame today, and after the tub is remove which will probably be this weekend I'm going to strip it to the bare frame. Then I want to take the bare frame to have it sand blasted to be sure there is no rust hiding any where. How much should it be to have the bare frame blasted? Then if there is any rust it will be patched with some 1/8th inch steel.

    There is only one spot on the frame that needs a patch from me grinding and poking at it all this time. It was behind a thick piece of metal just above the rear shackel. It is about 2x2 inches square of thin metal and a hole. I can just cut the bad area out and weld in some new metal right? And then put a fish plate of 1/8 over a portion of the frame rail and weld along the plate with some rosette welds also?

    I figure that should be strong enough there. And then I'll take the frame to a shop that has the means to straighten frames and have them take the twist out. For the tub I am going to get the rear fender repair panels so I have a good wheel well opening and corner. The rest of the tub will be fabricated out of 18 gauge sheet metal for the most part. Is 18 gauge thick enough for the floors, rockers, and wheel wells? Or did they use thicker metal? I got some measurements also, can anyone confirm these.

    Outside width of tub, 59 inches
    Width inside wheel wells, 36 inches
    Tailgate opening, 35 7/8 inches

    thanks for all the help
     
  6. Oct 8, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Here are some pictures.

    Frame rot

    [​IMG]

    Whats left of the tub. R)

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Oct 8, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    [​IMG]

    :shock:

    Don't take this wrong, but that really should be a parts Jeep...
     
  8. Oct 9, 2009
    twiggs

    twiggs Work in progress

    Blue Ridge, GA
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2005
    Messages:
    105
    ^^x100. That's not going to be the only frame rot you have. I would question the integrety of the entire frame now that I've seen that one pic.
     
  9. Oct 9, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I going to have the frame sand blasted and we will go from there. I have seen some Late CJ5 and CJ7 frames in much worse shape than mine repaired. The only reason it rusted there was because there was a 1/2 piece of metal bolted there.
     
  10. Oct 9, 2009
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Messages:
    637
  11. Oct 9, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    The only thing is that Classic Industries doesn't have any rear fender panels. I'm thinking about buying a pair of Quadratec's rear fender panels. Does anyone have any experience with the quality of their repair panels? I know I will need to cut the bow pockets in the repair panels and fortunately the passenger side bow pocket did not rust so I will use it to make templates so I can fabricate a bow pocket on the driver's side. And for all the other body panels I plan to just fabricate them out of some 18 gauge sheet metal, I want to buy some rear fender panels so I get the wheel wells and rear corners perfect. I got a lot of the jeep torn down today also. So far I have removed front clip, windshield frame, exhaust manifolds, steering shaft from box, pedals, tranny tunnel, and dash. These jeeps are so simple that tearing them apart is an easy task, now putting it back together I don't know. R)
     
  12. Oct 12, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Well I got some steel today, two sheets of 4x8 18 gauge sheet metal. Anybody have any experience with Quadratec's repair panels? thanks .

    Jeep with its crooked frame.

    [​IMG]

    Sheet metal

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Oct 12, 2009
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288
    I'm looking forward to watching you go through this. You are a better man than I! :D
     
  14. Oct 12, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Any ideas on how to remove these rivets, neither the air hammer or the BFH did very much.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Jeep's getting pretty bare.

    [​IMG]

    What was left of the tub.

    [​IMG]

    Jeep parts buried my quad. lol

    [​IMG]

    The other project, you guys can guess what it is. And it was almost as rusty as the jeep is now.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Oct 13, 2009
    JeepPower

    JeepPower Hopeless Gearhead

    Fort Mill, SC
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2002
    Messages:
    288

    I'm pretty sure you will also have to grind out the welds that are holding the bracket to the underside of the cross member.


    Wow-- the toolbox is still there! ;)
     
  16. Oct 13, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    Its gone now, just need to get rid of whats left of the floor. The tool box needs some work but it's nothing I can't fix.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Oct 13, 2009
    bobracing

    bobracing web wheeler

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2007
    Messages:
    215
    A small plasma cutter works great, cut (or grinder) the top off and then an air hammer to push it thru.

    I bought an inverter style plasma, works good at hacking and wacking, not so much for the nice edge you want when building something new.

    There are all kinds but this the one I went with.
    http://divtec1.startlogic.com/parkermp_002.htm
    He was giving a good deal on Pirate a while back.
     
  18. Oct 13, 2009
    alex211

    alex211 Member

    Pennsylvania
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Messages:
    441
    I already got the tops cut off, the air hammer does nothing to move them. The huge hammer barely moved them.
     
  19. Oct 13, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2002
    Messages:
    8,360
    Drill the rivets deeper and bigger.
     
  20. Oct 13, 2009
    bobracing

    bobracing web wheeler

    Richland, WA
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2007
    Messages:
    215
    PB Blaster?
    might get in a help loosen some of the rust.
     

Share This Page

New Posts