Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by alex211, Oct 4, 2009.
Wow. That's a serious hole saw fixture!
Ya Posi - I need to know what how where that thing is as I need something like that when I start to build my own frame(s). Got a good hole saw, and was thinking of fabing something like that up to keep things square.
I want to know where posi got that hole saw fixture, that would work nice for me.
I got the engine sitting where I think it should. I'm gonna put the tub on tomorrow to make sure it's far enough ahead or back. It is sitting 1" to the drivers side and the NP205 has plenty of clearance against the passenger frame rail. Those front springs still have plenty of arch with the drivetrain sitting on them.
I think the fixture is a Portalign. Sears made them. They may still be available. I inherited this one. It's basically a frame you mount your drill motor in. It definitely helps keep thins straight and square. I wanted it to be solid since I was only cutting part of a circle. I went to a real saw shop and bought the best hole saw and arbor they had. Well worth the money.
Working on getting the engine in position.
I had to destroy my floor for the transfer case to fit, I'll build some new support channels and transmission covers this week.
This won't be a problem. I'll limit some radical articulation but make it more stable over all.
I have a dilemma. Should I cut out the front cross member and replace it with square tube and then move the rad into the grill? I need to get rid of the stock cross member because it will get in the way the radiator.
The other option is move the engine back 2 inches and leave the grill alone, but a lot of the firewall will get cut out. What would you guys do?
In that case I'll just build a new front cross member, that part of the frame could use an increase in strength anyhow.
This is what the jeep will look like
Nice! It's going to be big. What size are your Swampers?
They are 38.5, I don't remember the width. I'm borrowing them off my buddy to roll it around on. I'm thinking about running some 37" cooper STTs.
I made some room for a rad. Do you guys think a 22x19 summit aluminum rad will cool a SBC? I have a hayden 16" pusher fan to mount between the grill and rad. I'm going to have to cut about 1" out of the top of the cross member, I'll brace up the bottom so I don't lose any strength.
I think I got the wheelbase set pretty nice, I really like the stretch in the front and rear.
Are you planning on cutting the rear wheel openings? Even going down to 37's they're going to eat that rear corner on flex if you leave it the way it is. You can call a tech at this site: http://www.rondavisradiators.com/custom.htm and they can tell you what minimum size radiator will cool your engine. I'm having them make me a custom radiator as I have an issue with the crossmember too because I moved my engine forward about 2 inches.
I'm planning on opening them up until the tires clear.
Not a whole lot new to add, I don't have a driver's license or a truck so I have had some trouble getting the frame to the sandblaster. I should have it there this weekend though. I got the NP205 bolted together with the 32 spline front output.
I'm planning on running a 1310 CV for the front driveline and a 1350 CV in the rear. I had to move the perch in on the Dana 44 because when I narrowed it I welded the perch on a 1/4" too far out. So I bought a pair of those mopar perches for 3" axle tubes. It fits the tube good but the center pin hole is way to big, I'm having the machine shop weld the hole shut and drill a new hole that will be a good fit for my center pins, the one in the perch allowed for around an 1/8" of play.
And I figured out that I made $1600 selling parts that came with the CJ6 I didn't want. Then if you take away $1200 for the jeep and $200 for gas it already paid for itself and $200. I still have a crap load of parts and a detroit for my Dana 44 too.
The plan for next week is to get the frame back and do all the finish welding on the suspension and motor mounts. Then I'm going to pick up some rectangle tub to build a new hat channel over the NP205 and build a floor over it.
NP205 with the ford output and 1310 CV yoke. My buddy gave me the ford stuff for $30 which saves me from having to buy a yoke for the chevy output shaft and I used the output bearings (front and rear) out of the ford case since mine were junk.
that jeep has a beautiful stance
Thanks, it's gonna be badass when it's done.
I got the spacers for the steering box mount machined. When ever ballistic ships me some DOM tube and inserts I can start figuring out the steering.
I also got the spring perch machined, they welded the old hole shut and machined a new one on the mill that is a precision fit to the center pin. I don't want the front axle to walk around any.
I'm taking Vo-tech next year for machining so soon I can start making some precision parts on my own without paying for them to be made.
The frame is sandblasted and primered, along with the rear end, springs, and skid plate. Tomorrow I want to paint the inside of the frame and weld in some boxing plates. There were no rust issues with the frame, just some minor pitting at the rear section.
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