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1965 Cj5 Body Mount Questions

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Paul Munson, Jan 14, 2020.

  1. Jan 14, 2020
    Paul Munson

    Paul Munson New Member

    Minnesota
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    Jan 13, 2020
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    14
    Hi, I am finally getting to the point of wrapping up this project I started 4 years ago. I have taken every nut and bolt apart and rebuilt nearly every piece. The engine is a 1975 Buick 231 oddfire that I picked up from a widow who was married to Jeep fanatic. It was rebuilt by a shop and never ran until about 2 weeks ago when I tested what I had put together.

    The question I have is concerning the body mounts. I have pretty much figured out from searching high and low on the net where they go. What I am not sure of is what type of bolts (carriage, hex, etc.) were used and if they were all drilled through from the top or not. The previous owner had done a lot of patchwork and gave me the new floors and rear fenders to put in but they are not located for the frame.

    I have the body resting on the frame to make sure what I had everything that I welded right so far. I have to weld a few more places including the rear fenders and my thought was it might be best to fasten the body down to make sure it all stays squared up correctly. Any help here is appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jan 14, 2020
    Paul Munson

    Paul Munson New Member

    Minnesota
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    Jan 13, 2020
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    I didn't realize the pdf pictures were not going to show so I will try this as a jpeg instead. 20130530_164452.jpg 20130601_192244.jpg 20200112_185352.jpg 20200114_072319.jpg 20200114_072414.jpg
     
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  3. Jan 14, 2020
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    when I replaced all the hat channel with rectangle tubing . had to drill two front ones and add a spacer in tubing
    and one in tool box
    I set tub on frame and drilled holes from bottom
    just nuts and bolts washers and bushings
     
  4. Jan 15, 2020
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    Welcome from Michigan. After putting new floors and hat channels in my body I lined up the four rear mounts on the rear cross member, that helps square the body to the frame. I then took a 1/2" bolt and drilled a 1/4" hole through the middle on the drill press, then put the bolt in the frame brackets and drilled a 1/4" though the hat channels and the floor so it was centered in the frame brackets. I then checked out the alinement and when felt it was right I enlarged the holes for the right size bolts. I used stainless carriage bolts from Lowes to bolt my body down, you have to file the holes square in the body for the carriage bolts but that is no big deal, worked out good for me. Something to consider, I put a frame mount bracket on the frame under the gas tank, instead of the one on an angle by the drivers side rear wheel well, this allows you to mount the body on the frame the same way as the other three are mounted instead on the angle like it was from the factory. I shimmed my gas tank up about 3/16" so the carriage bolt under the tank does not rub on the gas tank, and air can get under the tank and dry out any water that gets under the tank, it does not affect the filler pipe, it still lines up in the center of the filler neck hole, and you can blow dirt and debris that gets under the tank out. Good Luck
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2020
  5. Jan 15, 2020
    Paul Munson

    Paul Munson New Member

    Minnesota
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    Thanks for the very helpful information. My thought process was moving along those lines but I really wanted to hear from someone who had actually done it that way. I had already bolted down the rear feeling that would be the best way to start squaring it up myself. The tip on drilling out the bolt is a great idea. With this I can now get moving down the home stretch. The weather outside is hovering just above zero to negative digits but the garage is a comfy 64 degrees. Perfect combo for working on these type of projects. Thanks.
     
  6. Jan 15, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2003
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    340
    This is useful information. I have replaced the hat channels, but worry about alignment when re-mounting the body.
    This information helps out a lot.
    I like the idea of using rectangular tubing in place of the hat channels.

    Still trying to figure out how to weld a patch in the floor under the tool box without removing the tool box,
    since it is in pretty good shape except for the toolbox floor on the M38A1.
    Complicating this is the fact that the body is still on the frame. This may take some figuring and laying on my back welding.

    Dave
     
  7. Jan 15, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Jan 6, 2005
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    198
    DCAB53B0-4712-4FD2-A830-EF2FED2AE79C.jpeg Looks good! As for hardware I use elavator bolts, their like an over sized carriage bolt head. I use tire side wall cut up rubber for body mounts. For drilling holes for mounts, measure 4x times drill once! With body sitting rough on frame measure side of frame to edge of body. I had to use rectangle hat channel as get ce parts into Canada was not economical.
     
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  8. Jan 15, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Paul, this looks to be a good project.
    Thanks for the pictures.

    Dave.
    That looks really good. I like the rectangular hat channel. Thanks for the information. I think that Jeep will last a long time with those rectangular hat channels. Gives me some good information and some good motivation when I can get some shop time,

    Dave
     
  9. Jan 15, 2020
    Paul Munson

    Paul Munson New Member

    Minnesota
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    Jan 13, 2020
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    I like the idea of elevator bolts. I checked and McMaster Carr has them available. I should be able to get started on the layout of the holes this weekend if I'm not moving too much snow. They are saying a foot is on the way...
     
  10. Jan 15, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    33AB11EC-FB60-4F1A-B5BE-25855B775594.jpeg Thanks Dave, tubing in only 14gauge so I stuffed them with some plastic board material from Lowe’s to stop the tube from crushing at the mounting points. Its costly but I really prefer auto body epoxy gluing as a means of putting tub back together... that stuffs awesome!! As for Pauls question about placement of hat channel, you just kinda line everything up, making sure that hat does not obscure say gas tank drain and lands where bolt hole need to be. Warlocks build was very helpful in ref material, I even used his pics to scale to build some of my floor parts. Check out Jeep metal shaper on you tube, Brian is very good as remanufacruturing cj parts. Jesse QUOTE="Dave Deyton, post: 1536477, member: 1468"]Paul, this looks to be a good project.
    Thanks for the pictures.

    Dave.


    That looks really good. I like the rectangular hat channel. Thanks for the information. I think that Jeep will last a long time with those rectangular hat channels. Gives me some good information and some good motivation when I can get some shop time,

    Dave[/QUOTE]
     
  11. Jan 15, 2020
    Rustman

    Rustman New Member

    Charles Town, WV
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    Dec 28, 2019
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    In your very first picture I see a blank off plate in the floor below the gas tank. My 1970 DJ has that. I had assumed the DJ was using an M38A1 floor and the blank was to cover the gas tank well since the tank is in the rear on the DJ. But now I see it on your CJ-5. Is that a normal piece on CJ-5 floors? The repro pans are all one continuous piece.
     
  12. Jan 15, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Jan 6, 2005
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    198
    You are right about floor gas tank filler panel is from A1. Check out Jeep metal shaper he makes a replacement one, as you said the re pops are just stamped out sheet material. I wonder would a 1974 cj 5 floor still have the filler panel as the flooring is different with those raised up areas plus rear gas tank too. Looks like Paul might need or have to fab factory up a need trans floor cover... the drivers side lookin pretty rough.QUOTE="Rustman, post: 1536498, member: 95859"]In your very first picture I see a blank off plate in the floor below the gas tank. My 1970 DJ has that. I had assumed the DJ was using an M38A1 floor and the blank was to cover the gas tank well since the tank is in the rear on the DJ. But now I see it on your CJ-5. Is that a normal piece on CJ-5 floors? The repro pans are all one continuous piece.[/QUOTE]
     
  13. Jan 15, 2020
    Paul Munson

    Paul Munson New Member

    Minnesota
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    [/QUOTE]
    I wasn't sure on the floor panel from my original floor if the blank off panel was correct or not. There were so many patches on the floor and bed from previous repairs. I do have the transmission cover. I just had it off to see how I was lining up. Both sides have had all rust cut out and new sheet metal other than one small spot by the top front of the rear tire. At times it felt like a new tub wo lo have been easier but the previous owner gave me all the new floor, bed and fenders. It was a project he never got to and let it all go for $800. I stumbled into a few good deals along the way. The rebuilt odd fire ran $100. All by being at the right place at the right time. The advice I have received here is really going to help me get it done. I am sure I will be back with more questions as I get closer to the end.
     
  14. Jan 16, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    What are the rough diameters of your rectangle tubing? Seems that would be even stronger with an actual bottom.
    And what thickness is the tubing.
    This whole thread gives me some great ideas for getting the body back on the painted frame.

    Dave
     
  15. Jan 16, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    9FCADCBB-DCB2-4EA2-A8C8-BF54CB42D3EA.jpeg Good score Paul, $800 awesome...one mans loss another mans gain. Floor hats are 14 gauge with plastic blocking stuffed inside 3x1 under seat areas and front feet area 2x1 also filled with plastic. Metal was cheap.... but labour figuring correct miter joints and butt welding I’d be making less then a Mc Ds burger flipper. If your state side the Ce repops really are a good deal!
     
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  16. Jan 16, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    That is some nice work. I like how it looks close to original, but so much stronger.

    I will be getting some rectangular tubing.

    Dave
     
  17. Jan 16, 2020
    durk

    durk Member

    Ontario/Canada
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    Jan 6, 2005
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    Thanks Dave, as you already know the tub mount points need something to stop collapsing the metal of hat channel weather it be plastic board like me, a metal bunge support like Ce uses or as my Mj repop rear floor uses some exotic philpino wood. Garbage but cheap uhhhhh. Maybe 1/8 wall rectangle still even better... good luck soldier.
     
  18. Jan 16, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    I have thought about spacers out of that engineered wood, or some phenolic plastic.


    Dave
     
  19. Jan 16, 2020
    zinertia2

    zinertia2 "and which part are you keeping?" 2020 Sponsor

    San Diego
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    I am using something very similar to these in my build, will try to find part number tonite
    Dennis 3C72A05B-C05B-4FD7-989E-D77B717A8094.jpeg
     
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  20. Jan 16, 2020
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I have rebuilt a tub floor and used surplus rectangular tube in place of hat channels. To keep the rectangular tubing from collapsing, I welded in short stubs of 1/2" pipe on an oversized hole through the tubing. I aligned the tub on the frame, used a punch from the underside to mark the mounting holes, then used a step bit to drill for the pipe stubs.
    As far as the floor area under the fuel tank, yes, the factory CJs had a flat filler panel in place of the A1 tank well. There is a lap seam in the floor around the front edge of where the tank sits. I haven't found anyone supplying the rear flat floor for the area under the tank. Anyone have a source?
    As far as the forward section of left floor, the factory has a short diagonal depression pressed into the sheetmetal. I have only seen Midwest Military that duplicates this feature, but they only supply a tank well for the rear portion.
    Does anyone else make a correct reproduction front floors with these original features?
    Durk, Who are you referring to as "Ce"? I'm assuming "Mj" is MD Juan?
    This is all good information regarding rebuilding our tubs!
    -Donny
     
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