Disc brake conversion, thicker inner race and snap ring

I mocked up my disc breaks on the passenger side today with the original bearings and races -race LM 503110, and I think that I may needed the thicker inner race to center the caliper to the rotor.
I was able to get the pads on and everything has pleanty of clearance.
but I noticed that the caliper is about 1/8 inch from contacting the backing plate.( this would be eliminated if I installed the thicker race LM 501311 ) and would push the rotor and hub out but it looks like I would not be able to install the snap ring on the end of the axel.
Is the snap ring needed to center the axel in the differential or can it be eliminated.

1968 cj5_ dana 27A - 10 inch drums

 

Re: Disc break conversion, thicker inner race and snap ring

I have read in other threads several people say that No it is not needed. I don't know for sure what leaving it off would affect but if your wheel comes off don't blame me.

 

You can leave the snap ring off with no issues. Pretty much all the conversions that require the thicker race cannot use it and tons of Jeeps are running around without them.

 

Something isn't right here. The purpose of the conversion race is to space the rotor/hub about 1/8" outward so the pads and caliper can be bolted on. No other reason to use it. If they couldn't get the caliper on then either they had an early hub and didn't need the thicker race or had other issues. I prefer to use the conversion race because I know everything is nice and square but a spacer can work ok too.

 

On my D27 I didn't need the thicker race, but the D30 did. Since you converted a 27 you may be good as is. FYI with the thicker race there's only about an 1/8" clearance on the 30.

 

Thank you everybody.
being this was(is) my first convirson I was kind of confused about the thicker race. In my case with the 27 every thing bolts up and the pads install easily with out the thicker race, so I am going to go with out the thicker race
I will have at least 3/8 to 1/2 inch of caliper travel before it will make contact with the knuckle.
For what it is worth the hubs are new and I purchased from Kaiser Willys # 927348
Backing plates,Calipers and knuckle studs from complete off road. (it was a kit)
so for me its on the the residule valve in the MC and new brake lines up front

nothing like learning on the job
David

 

I'm now at the point you were.... What M/C and brake lines did you go with? Was it a dual reservoir, frame mounted replacement? Any problems with the end hoses?

 

this is the master cyclinder , had to drill some ne mounting holes and , rework the push rod to the pedal,
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-7563/10002/-1?parentProductId=756328
I will have to look at my parts list on the hoses . I wi;; post up some pics to night after work.

 

That is really nice, to be able to mount the fluid remotely, put them where you can see them and fill them easily, but ouch that is pricier than I want to go. I have been trying to find a 67-71 frame mounted dual pot but even those are over $100 if you can find one. and a rebuild kit half that.

I might have to stick with the stock single cyl. MC for now or get a regular high mount type and make a frame bracket to hold it, as I don't want to convert to swinging pedals if I can avoid it.

Anyone know where to get conversion brackets for this type of application? That's probably a moneymaker for someone with the skill considering how often this is done.

 

Hermtheoverdriveguy sells a dual reservoir under floor kit with m/c and bracketry. Might do a search as there can be some challenges to mounting it and getting the lines hooked up.

 

Have a look at Napa part number 10-1854, that's the Dual Chamber out of an Early Ford Econoline HD, which was pusher pedal equipped, and the same one I've got in my '41 Ford street rod (Discs in the Front, Drums in the rear). Worked real well for me in every application I've used it in, and is easy to adapt to just about any bracket you might be working with.

 

Thanks
Nothing came up on that PN though. What year Econoline? I tried 67 but it too drew a blank.
If I use something other than an OEM replacement - what do y'all do about the stoplight switch on the front of the old one??

 

if you're using napaonline.com, toss that number I gave you in, and make sure the "Interchange" box is checked.

 

I thought the 67-71 frame mounted bodies were different from the one you show. I know all the parts lists show those numbers you mentioned but I wonder how to mount it out of the box.

I can't find a pic of one at the moment but I think the 67-71 OEM look like the old single reservoir from 66 and before except with two reservoirs...

hmmmm... I don't seem to have permissions to upload a picture, but the one I am referring to is the Dorman M2796 (aka 163.63003).

It has two holes thru the main body to bolt to the frame while the one you show has two ears on the back (like most) which will require a special bracket be fabricated. Don't know if I can easily do that. I see that it appears to have the hole to mount the stoplight switch, so if I do have to make a bracket, that is the P/N to use. Does the switch get activated by the hydraulic pressure or how?

The P/N I have found for the frame mounted dual reservoir include: Raybestos MC36365, Centric 29602G and Unk 945556 which all have a $ of 112+ when I can find them listed.

Thanks
Al

 

Well, I have no idea if my M/C in my 1970 CJ5 w/ 225 is original or not, but it doesn't look like the picture above. And if a MC was originally intended for all drum systems (which my 70 is), they generally won't push enough fluid to properly actuate Disc Brakes, As I recall, you need a minimum of a 1" Bore (and preferably 1-1/8" or larger) to get the right amount of fluid to the calipers.

The Brake light switch, you can pretty much tie in anywhere in the brakes, it just picks up pressure off a brake line, and sends power to the brake lights. I know on my hot rod, I've just got a "T" plumbed in to one of the lines after the Master Cylinder, and the brake lights work fine.

This is the one I've got in my hotrod, it's just a simple 1/8" NPT connection, to a Normally Open Switch. https://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=MPESL147SB_0249830861&An=0
Napa part number SL147SB if the link doesn't work.

 

X2 on steves post,
when i put the dual mc from wilwood I only had to drill 2 new holes in the original mount, adjust the length of the push rod from the peddal to the mc + about 1/2 inch.
simple mod with the blue wrench and a welder, here some pics of mine
Also I did not save the part # of the breake lines but mine were 20 inches and did away with the king pin mount