hanging clutch pedal

I am converting to a hydraulic clutch and will need to convert to a hanging pedal ( I think). Wilwood has 3 types..ther is a fwd mount and an under dash mount. They also have a through the floor pedal system. Before I purchase anything, would it be easier to fabricate a support for the under dash, fwd mount, or floor pedal? For those who have completed this conversion, what type of support did you fabricate?
Thanks in advance...
Paul

 

Just a quick thought, what about using a later model jeep swing peddles. They can be found on craigslist or ebay easly. That is what I did for my 58 and all the brackes and clearances where spot on. Spent about $75 for a set I think. Then I used a MC out of a s10 and fab'd a bracket to mate it to the jeep peddles assy and bought a hydraulic clutch master and slave from a jeep website. The peddles fit real nice in the older jeeps.

 

I just fabed up mine. I use a 1/8 aluminum backing plate on the firewall and ran 1/8 steel angle to brace to bottom of dash-that also gave more support to steering column. Here is the clutch pedal-made of 3/8" flat stock.


I never did get a shot of the bracket assembly.

 

Wilwood makes a pedal that they call a "clutch pedal" and its a 7:1 ratio. Thats the one I used. Works great.. I also went with the wilwood master and slave for my setup. It all went in pretty easy and works great, and is adjustable. This was in my 66 cj5 with the :v6: and a sm420 trans.

 

I am in the process of buying the pedal from Wilwood (same 7:1 ratio) and their smaller master cylinder. I already have the retrofit setup from Novak, 3/4 bore. Anyone have some pics of the bracket setup against the firewall? Is that enough support for the pedal? I mean just placing a bracket against the FW and mounting the pedal to it, or do I need a brace like Duffer?

 

You will need to add support to the firewall. The factory heater will need to be removed as well. If you have the "heater delete" cover plate you will need to remove it and put a flat plate on the firewall or it will flex too much. The heater delete plate is raised and can cause mounting challenges. If you do have the delete plate and decide to get rid of it please contact me....
It's pretty standard when converting to hanging pedals to cover the heater opening and add support to the firewall. 18 gauge sheet metal works well and is fairly easy to work with. It can be bolted or welded in place.

 

I have an aftermarket heater installed, a summit heater. How big does the bracket/plate need to be for support and does it mount to the engine or interior side? Can I see some pics of a swinging pedal installed? Where is the heater delete cover plate and what does it look like?
Thanks,
Paul

 

When I did mine.. I put a support plate that covered the heater holes on the firewall engine compartment side. Then I made a bracket that the pedal frame bolted on and though the firewall. This bracket also extended ontop of the pedal frame to the dash board for extra support.