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Dana 25/27 closed knuckle ?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 59willys, Mar 30, 2011.

  1. Mar 30, 2011
    59willys

    59willys Member

    colorado
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    Sep 25, 2010
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    is anyone familiar with how to take the steering knuckle off the axle on a dana 25/27? I have removed everything including the caps on the top and bottom of the knuckle. The upper and lower king pin bearings are loose in the races but the knuckle won't slip off of the axle. Should I be able to remove the bearings? Am I missing a step? Thanks
     
  2. Mar 30, 2011
    oddfirejeeper

    oddfirejeeper Active Member

    Hamilton, MI
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    i've never done it before but maybe need to remove the knuckle seals. i would think the bearings would need to be removed.
     
  3. Mar 30, 2011
    SIDSCJ

    SIDSCJ Jeep addict

    14th State
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    Yes, you need to pull the retainers and felt seals off the knuckle side. If the caps with the kingpins are off, it should slide off.
     
  4. Mar 30, 2011
    59willys

    59willys Member

    colorado
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    Sep 25, 2010
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    Thanks Guys! That was all that was holding it from coming off, the seal. Anyone know a good source for buying new seals?
     
  5. Mar 30, 2011
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
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    Walcks 4x4 has them.
     
  6. Mar 30, 2011
    59willys

    59willys Member

    colorado
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    Sep 25, 2010
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    Thanks, I'll check em out.
     
  7. Mar 30, 2011
    59willys

    59willys Member

    colorado
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    Sep 25, 2010
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    One more question? does anyone know the procedure to shim the king pin bearings?
     
  8. Mar 30, 2011
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
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  9. Mar 30, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Factory service manual has good info for that stuff :)
    Posted via Mobile Device
     
  10. Mar 31, 2011
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2010
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    958
    Trial and error using a fish scale. Leave the knuckle seals off until you get the load right. Only shim the top. I think you want to get it to 12-14 pounds of pull to get the knuckle to turn -- someone will correct me if I am wrong on that (I can't remember exactly and I don't have the FSM in front of me.)

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Mar 31, 2011
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sep 23, 2002
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    You were close! My Factory Service Manual says 12-16 lbs.

    You want to check it while it's moving as it will take more force to overcome the friction initially so your reading will be higher and inaccurate to get it moving.
     
  12. Mar 31, 2011
    thatch 65

    thatch 65 New Member

    Martinsburg, WV
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    Oct 29, 2010
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  13. Mar 31, 2011
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    Polish the fool out of the ball to make sure there are no voids or scratches that will tear the new seal and make it leak. Definately dont want any paint on the ball either-at least where the seal rides. If replacing the bearings, go with the 15 pounds of pressure. If re-using good bearings that have already been run then go lower as they are not going to "wear in" as much.
     
  14. Mar 31, 2011
    59willys

    59willys Member

    colorado
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    Thanks for all of the help. Looks pretty easy.
     
  15. Apr 3, 2011
    donoho34

    donoho34 putting it back together

    Gallatin, TN
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2010
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    36
    X2 on Walcks4WD.com

    Be sure to call if you don't see what you need on their website. They have lots of parts that are not listed on-line. Great guys to work with.
     
  16. Apr 4, 2011
    repeater

    repeater I'll break it.

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
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    kaiserwillys also has them. Make sure if you're doing everything on both sides, replace your upper and lower kingpin bolts with fresh new grade 8 bolts...won't cost you much. Also, make sure you RTV the threads on the bottom bolts and a thin layer on the flat surface of the bearing cap that mates to the bottom of the knuckle....this will keep any knuckle goo from seeping out. Preload is checked with NO seals on, just bearings and caps, torqued to spec.
     
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