My Jeep finally runs...sort of...

So, after 20 years of sitting neglected in a barn, my project jeep has finally moved under it's own power. Aside from the heater core gushing antifreeze everywhere, the motor is running like crap. Super rich (new Solex), tough to start when cold even, fuel enrichment adjustment is all the way forward (choke off) and even just a little adjustment on the choke even on cold start and it won't even fire. When it does finally start it will idle ok, but very sluggish throttle response and you pretty much have to goose the gas until it warms up. No power, you step on the gas and it wants to die.

To recap, here's what's done and what I've been over.

Motor had good compression, everything looked good inside to fresh gaskets, took .080 off the head and re-adjusted the valves, new Solex carb, installed MSD and used new stock points for the trigger on the MSD, MSD coil, 10si alternator, new plugs and all tune-up parts, new fuel pump (vacuum delete), new fuel tank, all new lines..everything attached to the motor is new. Timed to 5 BTDC. I have not checked fuel pressure.

My big concern lies in the PCV system. I'm running only a single line, strait off of the bell assembly that attaches to the exhaust valve cover, into a rubber hose and over to the intake fitting just below the carb. My valve cover does not have a vent on it. As far as I knew, there was a valve assembly inside the fittings that attach to the bell assembly at the exhaust valve cover - any chance something's wrong here? I guess I could test by removing the rubber hose from the fitting below the manifold and try to push/pull air through that? I assume on a normal PCV system you should be able to draw air from the crankcase side but not push it back? I did buy an additional aftermarket PCV valve that screws directly into that fitting below the carb if needed.

Also, I have not checked vacuum yet but will do that in the morning. The solex carb's idle mixture screw is backed out so far it's about ready to fall out, which I think is full lean (unless I'm backwards) - screwing it in even 2 turns and the thing stumbles and wants to die.

Before I start checking and double-checking everything...any ideas? My big concern is one, do I need to worry at all about the PCV system or am I OK here, and 2, do I need a FP regulator for the Solex as I'm hearing from some you do.

 

If all you have is a line from the valve cover bell tothe fitting below the carb you are losing to much vacum you have to have the pcv valve in line somewhere or it wont run right. .
I dont know why evrybodey is down on the solex carb. Mine works great.run your idle mixture screw all the way in and back out 3 turns after you fix the pcv it should run and can fine tune it from their

 

Plugs are black...running too rich.

I will try putting the PCV valve in there and see what happens.

 

Hey guys, this is kinda a continuation of this thread, so I decided not to make a new one. I ended up getting the Jeep to run great but I'm still having a major cold start issue...so here's what I've done so far.

For the time being, I removed and plugged the vacuum source fitting coming from under the carb and let the PCV hose just vent. Hooked a vaccum gauge to the fitting under the carb as well, and carrying a steady 20 inches at idle. Timed the thing to 5 BTDC and it still wasn't running well...very sluggish throttle response, so I stepped it up to about 12-14 and it ran great...quick throttle response, still starts fine when hot, and I adjusted idle mixture screw and took it for its first drive in 20 years...everything good...good idle, good power...good...except I'm having MAJOR cold start issues with the solex.

Just for note, I still haven't checked fuel pressure and am not running a FP regulator. New fuel pump with vacuum delete. When the jeep is attempted to start cold (it's between 20 and 30F here in Michigan right now) the thing will fire and run for maybe 2-4 seconds with the choke pushed all the way in if you pump the gas a few times before starting(regular operating spot on the choke). When you pull the choke out any at all (which you should be able to when its cold) the thing will not even fire. If you pump the gas a few times with the choke pulled, it will very occasionally fire and backfire through the carb or cough. If you put the choke all the way back in though, pump the gas a lot and / or shoot some starting fluid in it, you can get it to fire and run for about 10 seconds while goosing the hell out of the gas and eventually it will run longer and longer until it finally stays running, warms up, and then everything is fine. If any time during the running process you pull the choke, even a little bit, it will sputter and die.

The solex is new, and to re-cap, I'm running an MSD ignition driven off of the points as a trigger. Once the thing is warm, it runs great....just getting it to that point is utterly annoying. I am currently running the carb open and not through the air horn / air filter just to get things set up...I can't see that being a major issue though. Do I have a problem with this new solex? Seems doubtful. I've just never seen a carb be this tempermental on cold starts. I'm about to grab a piece of flat metal and block off part of the carb by hand on top like a make-shift choke rather than using the actual fuel enrichment and see if that helps. Also, I checked to see if gas is physically coming out of the top accelerator tube when you pump it...and it is, so it's not running low on start up. I don't know what else to do here.

 

If you are pumping the pedal with it pulled out you could be flooding it.What happens when you pull it out and dont touch the pedal try to start it?PUT the PCV in it that helps vent the crank case.
Do you have a fuel filter is it clogged if its not and you dont have one you could have sucked up some dirt in the carb even if your fuel system is new