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48 Willys - Weirdest Engine Problem Ever

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by sweetguardian001, Jan 26, 2011.

  1. Jan 26, 2011
    sweetguardian001

    sweetguardian001 New Member

    Massachusetts
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Messages:
    47
    So, i have a 48 willys pickup, go devil,

    problem. truck idles and starts great! i mean perfectly. truck also runs even better when i start this thing in 5 degree weather it idles happily and will idle till the ends of the earth. problem is that whenever i drive the thing, about 4 miles from the house, it starts to buck, and cough, and choke, and die. i let off the gas, she idles perfectly. then if i try to get it to idle up, it will the first time i try it, but as soon as i go to give it clutch, she dies right out and comes back to idle. then if i try and idle it up again, she WILL NOT do it, it will choke itself, and pop and fart and buck, then return to idle. once it stalls (which it will after a while) the starting is very difficult, and often kills the battery.

    ive never seen an engine run great in cold weather, and get worse as it warms up. she died today plowing my cousins driveway, which it had only been doing in low range. i barely was able to get out of the street by letting it idle, and barely letting off the clutch to get it going on idle/

    we're getting 8 inches over the night, and she's pregnant.

    anyone know whats going on.

    if i went out to it right now, and started it up, it would idle great, drive perfectly fine, and have all the power in the world for like 5 minutes or so. then the problem arises.
     
  2. Jan 26, 2011
    curbcrawler

    curbcrawler Hacker

    Ohio
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2010
    Messages:
    59
    Had a problem similar to yours on my v8 conversion. Heres what I did, I would drive it till it died or sounded like it would die, then I sprayed I little starting fluid with someone on the throttle. When I hosed it would not die, this let me know it was a fuel problem. turns out my float was too low. It took a while for it to finally drain the bowl that is why it seemed like it was getting hot and would run forever at idle. Try the starter fluid trick to see if it a fuel problem. Good luck.
     
  3. Jan 26, 2011
    Chuck

    Chuck Sponsor

    Southshore Ma
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2004
    Messages:
    1,463
    X2 on the float level
     
  4. Jan 26, 2011
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    I'll throw out fuel pump diaphragm as a possibility.
     
  5. Jan 26, 2011
    sweetguardian001

    sweetguardian001 New Member

    Massachusetts
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Messages:
    47
  6. Jan 26, 2011
    EricM

    EricM Active Member

    Southern California
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2007
    Messages:
    1,019
    If it's an L-head, do you have a glass bowl fuel pump?

    If so can you see the fuel level?
     
  7. Jan 26, 2011
    sweetguardian001

    sweetguardian001 New Member

    Massachusetts
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Messages:
    47
    no, just a capped fuel pump. but it has a clear glass filter just before it, and its full with fuel.
     
  8. Jan 26, 2011
    haighfam

    haighfam Member

    Paradise, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2009
    Messages:
    368
    If you've done all the tune up things, check the distributor shaft for run out. I'm dealing with a similar problem, turned out to be a worn distributor. It flopped around enough off idle so the points weren't opening the proper amount. New distributor shaft bearings, and runs great now at any RPM.
     
  9. Jan 27, 2011
    avmechanic

    avmechanic Gearhead

    Langley B.C. Canada
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    Messages:
    263
    I am going to say you are having carb icing issues. With the current weather conditions you mention it sounds like classic carb icing. If you shut it off and let the engine heat get back to the engine compartment does it run fine again for a few minutes. You need to be picking up heated air into the carb from around the exhaust manifold. I am not familiar with what a stock flatty L head intake is like but I would think there is a way to pull heated air into the carb. This is why most aircleaners from 60s and 70s cars have a heated thermal valve on the snorkel of the air cleaner to pull heated air in when it is cold out. Hope the info helps you out. Good luck.
    Greg
     
  10. Jan 27, 2011
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    The L-head has a heat riser valve as part of the exhaust manifold, and they normally get rusted up to the point where they don't work. Check the counterweight, it should project from the front of the manifold just above where the header pipe attaches. Sometimes you can get lucky and hit it with PB Blaster or other penetrant and it will free up, but most times you will need to pull it apart to replace the shaft, flap, spring and counterweight to get it to work again.

    A temporary fix, if it is indeed carb icing is to partially cover the radiator on the outside with a piece of cardboard in order to help keep the underhood temps up where it prevents icing from happening.
     
  11. Jan 29, 2011
    drom68

    drom68 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2011
    Messages:
    1
    Had a very similar issue, everything checked out great- float level, fuel pump, distributor etc... drove me nuts.

    Finally checked the fuel lines and found a small crack in a rubber portion near the tank which let air in vs fuel. At idle, it would not have any affect, under higher rpm's it would create enough suction that it would suck in air versus fuel creating fuel starvation. When I let off the gas and let it idle for a short period it would fill the fuel bowl back up resulting in a great running engine.
     
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