Herm's MC conversion

I had the MC conversion done on my jeep during the rebuild (including disc front brakes and 11 in rear drums). The install kit instructions mentioned the rod from the MC to the brake lever had to be shortened. I had it done only it is not short enough. Does anyone have a pic of this conversion with the size of the rod? ALso, the person who installed the kit said there was an offset of the MC and brake pedal lever causing him to have to weld the pieces together on the side.
I posted a while back about my brake lights flickering and the front brakes dragging. ( http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84306 ) Removing the rod and all tension seems to have fixed the front tires dragging.
My camera took a dump after I took pictures..I will upload as soon as I get it figured out.
Any pics of Herm's conversion with the rod will be greatly appreciated.
Also, does the rod from the MC have to be straight back to the brake pedal lever or can there be a slight offset (angled)?
Hope this question is not confusing.
Thanks,
Paul

 

If the rod to the MC is not straight going in, it will put a side thrust on the MC piston causing a possible fluid leak and premature wear between piston and wall of MC. Straight in is the name of the game since it was designed to operate that way for several reasons.

 

got some pics...there are 2 nuts on it. One os for locking the other adjusting nut. Notice how the pieces were welded together to make it a straight shot from the MC to the brake lever.

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Is there a special rod that can be purchased or do I likely have to buy a new one and cut/weld it?

 

my rod dies not look like the one you have. i also have a 70 so i'm not sure if they changed these or not. i sent you a pm. i can show you pics when i get home.

 

google image "jeep master cylinder push rod"

 

I don't like the looks of that at all..
but it's your life...
needs to be/should be a straight shot as mentioned above

 

I would prefer to have a straight shot but for some reason the MC is offset from the brake pedal lever. Any thoughts as to why? The original MC was sort of mounted in the same area, just a smaller one. I don't know why the MC is offset. Any where to purchase a smaller rod (or just as small but adjustable) that would work?

 

Something about the one side pinned to the lever bothers me as well ... wouldn't it be better to have a yoke on the arm with a female thread on it for the rod to screw into and out of?

Something more like this:



You could then make the push rod about 8" long with 1.5" of thread on the end and then cut the non-threaded end off to a custom fit

 

Troy (is it?),
Is that set up what you are running? What would be the difference in running the eye of the rod on the pin, and adjusting it via a nut on the rod itself? I do like your idea though. ANy idea on where to get the parts including a new rod?

 

Paul, I am in the process of the Herm MC upgrade and have not yet seen how things are going to line up, so I can't say yet, but it may be what I end up trying to do. I might think about drilling the rod as well and putting some safety wire in there.

Maybe something like this would work if I can find the right size:

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=740

Troy

 

I am sure the pedals go on a certain way on the pivot bar with spacers. Anyone have a pic of the proper sequencing of the pedals and any washers/spacers so I can make sure that is alright?

 

I just emailed Herm with pics to see what his suggestions would be... Troy, I would appreciate you keeping me posted.. Thanks,..I will let all know how I overcome this speed bump..

 

correct me if I'm wrong
the pin on the actual brake pedal the the push rod attaches to, it's to the frame side of the pedal, correct ?
could you not shim the master cylinder out away from the frame and/or mount ?
the pedal will not slide over enough on the shaft to meet your requirement.
I would need to see a picture of the mounting.

 

never mind, I see how it's supposed to mount with his bracket.
can't do it.

 

Yes. The pin is on the frame side. The brake lines are already bent and everything is already in place. Would I have to get new lines or would a little movement of the MC cause any line issues?

 

Would something like this work?

http://www.ssbrakes.com/commerce/detail/index.cfm?nPID=8892

I think the biggest issue is having the rod fit the MC right? Or will any rod pretty much fit, just a length issue?

 

I just measure my pushrod. The length from end of stylet eye tp and of rod is just under 5 3/4. The offset is just under 1/2 inch. The pin on the brake pedal lever is roughly 3/4 inch long. If only it was slightly longer (that would alleviate the problem). Looks like pin is pushed in and maybe welded. wonder if I can push in a longer one? would it be just as strong? Also, just a quick question. I was able to easily pull the push rod out of the MC. Is that typically the way it is supposed to be?

 

My brother is a machinist. He said he could machine a new pushrod that adjusts the right length. He also can put a machined bend/curve in it to match the offset that may be there. I say may as I am going to get under my Jeep and see exactly how much there is fo an offset. I was in touch with Herm and he said there should not be any offset with his conversion. Who knows.
1) with a machined piece with a curve, shouldn't it still be just as strong as straight?
2) How about a yoke with an offset to allow the rod to screw into it?
3) which would be stronger?

Any more suggestions?

 

The pin is 3/4 inch long. That piece is over 1 inch from outside to outside. Still, a good idea. I am going to see if my brother can machine me a piece like it though. I may be able to make it work.