The alternator is in....the questions begin

OK so we fabricated the bracket and got that puppy in there, nice and flush, good and tight belt, all good! :stout:

I do not know if it works!

I followed the directions from another thread...I got a one wire Delco knock off, you can see pix of it at:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss14/mwinks-jeep/

Is this kind one I have to rev to get it going?

So I ran a wire from the red-backed smaller nut on the back of the alternator to the positive battery terminal. Ran the ground from the big bolt to the engine block.

I did not do the alt light wire or anything else, just those two wires....

Fired car up and could not determine if it was working or not (it was getting dark) but I have a sneaking suspicion it was not.

Did I miss a step? Did I misread the directions? Do I need a minimum thickness of wire required to run from battery to alternator? I used the wire from the generator that ran from the terminal to the regulator.

Also....no taillights! This may be a preexisting condition, I do not know if I had taillights before this job or not, but I do have brake lights and turn signals.

I have a multimeter to check things out once I have more light but a primer on what I should be checking would be great.

Or heck it COULD be working!

Any input welcome,

 

X2. This may be a 3 wire alternator. You can get the plug at any parts store and it is easy to hook up.

 

I have been following your posts, as I am doing a alternator conversion as well. I think you may have a 3 wire type alternator. That is the better one to use anyway. I am going to use a 3 wire 94 amp 12si alternator on my conversion. Where did you get the wide pulley for your alternator? Caterpillarman

 

OK the pulley came with it, I did not get a different pulley.

Now talk to me like I am 7, if it is a three wire what does that mean and what is not yet hooked up that needs to be.

Those two small flat terminals? is that what I need the plug for? One of those is for the amp light though right?

I am so confused. Also, thoughts on the taillights?

 

You need a minimum 10 ga wire from the BAT (red lug) stud directly to the battery plus cable. Make up another wire that will connect term #2 and connect it to the BAT term with the 10 ga wire on the back of the alternator. Now find the wire coming from the idiot light and connect it to terminal #1 on the alternator. You should be in business.

 

internally regulated,

i got headlights, brake lights, hazards and turn signals all working, no taillights.

So really I gotta get out there with my digital multimeter and see if I can get it to react to revving the motor.

Just wondering mainly if I missed any steps and/or if there is a minimum wire thickness for wire from Alt to Bat.....

 

And Walt was apparently answering while I was typing!

 

WAY easy test........put a DC voltmeter (multimeter on DC volts) across your battery terminals. With the eninge running, and all/any accessories turned on (heater blower, headlights, flashers, etc.) the voltage should be 12.75 (13) Volts to about 15 volts. If you need to rev up engine to obtain see below.

If you are reading below that, check your belt for tightness and/or glazing. If you can spin the alternator by hand (engine NOT running) with the belt engaging the pulley, the belt is too loose or too glazed or wrong belt. Could also be regulator, but not as common.

 

You can get the pully from Speedway Moters in Lincoln Nebraska Phone 1-800-979-0122. 14.99 plus shippping. Thats where I got mine and it works great.

GM Alternator 5/8 Inch Wide Belt Pulley - Plain Item #:
91016250

Price: $14.99

 

Catepillarman ask where to get a pully. First page forth post down.