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Full float axle shaft measurements

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by xtrm4xjp, Nov 5, 2010.

  1. Nov 5, 2010
    xtrm4xjp

    xtrm4xjp Member

    Kenosha, WI
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2005
    Messages:
    70
    I'm going to be converting an axle from a 65 to full float in the somewhat near future. I looked at the write up in the tech section and plan on doing the machining for the shafts myself. I'm having issues reading the dimensions in the picture that is posted in the write up. I'm wondering if anyone might have a better copy of the picture or know were I might be able to find a better/more readable picture. I'm trying to do the shafts first so that I have everything machined and ready to go before I pull the axle apart. Thanks in advance.

    Anders
     
  2. Nov 8, 2010
    Jim Wiseman

    Jim Wiseman New Member

    Palo Alto, CA
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2002
    Messages:
    36
    Ya know, I haven't visited this website for a looong time and when I do, this is what I see! Makes me feel useful. I've got 'em in a file at home. I'll send it to ya (or post details here).
    -jvw
     
  3. Nov 8, 2010
    Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Chanute, Kansas
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
    Messages:
    817
    Got some pictures for you.
    I’ll edit in what each picture is once I get them all posted.

    [​IMG]

    The display on my callipers doesn't show up very well but that should read 1.249".

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    This is a seal surface that is between about 6 5/8" and 8 1/2 from the outside end of the shaft and 1.251" diameter.

    [​IMG]

    The splines are 1 3/16” long and there his a shoulder that buts up against the drive flange at 1 ¼”.

    [​IMG]

    Diameter of the shoulder.

    [​IMG]

    The shaft necks down to this 1.1885" diameter.

    [​IMG]

    The drivers side, long, shaft is 31 1/2" long.

    [​IMG]

    And the passenger side, short, shaft is 23 1/16".
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  4. Nov 8, 2010
    Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Chanute, Kansas
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
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    817
    Hope that helps.
     
  5. Nov 9, 2010
    xtrm4xjp

    xtrm4xjp Member

    Kenosha, WI
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2005
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    70
    That helps out alot. Thanks. Are there snap ring grooves on them? I so were are they located?
     
  6. Nov 9, 2010
    Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Chanute, Kansas
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
    Messages:
    817
    None that I saw, which surprises me a little. You’d think there would be something to keep the shaft from sliding in too far. I’ve even got a topic I started where I found this to be an issue.

    http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78319

    Check out the pictures towards the end, you can see how the axle shafts have been worn off by the Power Lok cross shaft.
     
  7. Nov 9, 2010
    Jim Wiseman

    Jim Wiseman New Member

    Palo Alto, CA
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2002
    Messages:
    36
    Here is what the file I submitted to the tech section had for that drawing of the axles. I can't cut and paste the figure from my original .doc file so here is the text to help you read the tech section article:

    Left side:
    Dana 44 19-spline powerlock differential
    1.25" dia spline x 1.5" (min) long
    3.5" (min) to shoulder

    Right side:
    Warn 27-spline
    1.20" dia x 1.5" (min) long
    7.0" (min) to shoulder
    Seal area 1.375" dia x 1.2" wide

    Two axles, 31.75" and 23.50"

    Snap ring 0.25" from end
    Groove width 0.06
    Grove dia 1.06
     
  8. Nov 10, 2010
    Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Chanute, Kansas
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
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    817
    That’s very interesting.
    I’ve always thought mine might be an early “home brew” conversion. Now I’m pretty sure of it.
    I assume the snap ring grove is at the hub end of the shaft? I definitely don’t have that but it would make sense.
     
  9. Nov 10, 2010
    xtrm4xjp

    xtrm4xjp Member

    Kenosha, WI
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2005
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    70
    I'm thinking really it should have two snap rings. One inside of the hub/driveflange to prevent it from coming out, and one on the outside to prevent it from going in. I wonder if this would take care of some of the hub breaking issues guys are having.

    Does anyone know if Herms kit is machined on both sides?
     
  10. Nov 10, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    They are not.
     
  11. Nov 10, 2010
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,471
    You know - I believe my Warn setup has the snap ring. Nick has worked on enough of them (my memory is not clear) - do you recall? I don't have a spot to work on it right now with the weather, so it would be a bit before I could open them up and see.

    I believe Herm's are based on Dutchmen specs?
     
  12. Nov 10, 2010
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    The Warn FF kit has the snap ring just on the outer end. It keeps the axle from sliding inward. Really all that should be needed imho.
    Herm's are built to Herm's specs. Dutchman doesn't build them for him from what he's told me. Dutchman built all mine but I had to supply all the specs for them. They will build them with or without the snap ring groove. I had mine built with and haven't had an issue.
    I have a couple of the Warn spacers Jim Wiseman mentioned at home somewhere. I tossed them in the Jeep or motorhome but have never needed them in around 15-18 years since I built my FF kit. I got them when Warn started building their kits and had some issues.
    My experience has been that most of the FF hub issues have been caused by bent housings, damaged spindles or locking hubs, or housings flexing too much. There have been a few anomalies that have crept up but mostly those were the causes.
     
  13. Nov 11, 2010
    Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Chanute, Kansas
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
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    817
    And that may yet be what my issue is. It’s been an ongoing problem since I’ve owned this Jeep.
    I’m not going to spend a whole lot of time or money trying to fix these axles because I have a set of Waggy Dana 44’s to take their place but how would I go about measuring that?
    My first thought is to find a good flat piece of garage floor and measure from the bottom of the axle tube to the ground going from one side to the other and writing down measurements.
    That sound right? Got a better or more accurate method?
     
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