1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Clutch Fork / Adjusting Rod Picture

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by peterc, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. Oct 23, 2010
    peterc

    peterc New Member

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    I'd like a pic of how the clutch adjusting rod fixes/attches to the clutch fork.
     
  2. Oct 23, 2010
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    It sits in a pocket and is held in by a spring.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Oct 23, 2010
    peterc

    peterc New Member

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    Holy cow...so it's just the tension that keeps it in.

    Yesterday, just backing up over some uneven ground and the bell housing came off and so did the adjusting rod.
     
  4. Oct 23, 2010
    pathkiller

    pathkiller Member

    Lorton, VA
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2005
    Messages:
    878
    The bell housing came off?:shock:
     
  5. Oct 23, 2010
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    That would be shocking! ;)

    The ball joint wears out, and the pushrod falls off. Very common problem. You can see that the factory ball joint on mine has been replaced with a Heim joint.
     
  6. Oct 23, 2010
    peterc

    peterc New Member

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    Already replaced the ball joint.

    Yea, bell housing came off....one plastic bushing missing. Rest seems OK. Just ordered stuff.

    Now, the "socket" in the fork broke, so there's an open hole. The adjusting rod ball still goes in...and kinda through. I ordered a new fork...but seems difficult to change without pulling the tranny. Rather just "repair" the socket, somehow....any suggestions?
     
  7. Oct 23, 2010
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Mmm... peterc, are you sure you know which part the bellhousing is? It's the big aluminum bell between the engine and transmission. I think you mean 'bell crank?'
     
  8. Oct 23, 2010
    peterc

    peterc New Member

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    Holy cow...yea, yea the bell crank...duh
     
  9. Oct 23, 2010
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
    Messages:
    23,596
    Also .. you sure you are referring to the fork? It would be difficult to change without getting inside the bell.

    You can fix the adjusting rod, or buy a new one.

    [​IMG]

    Here's the rod with the part I used to repair it. It's a 3/8"-24 female thread Heim joint from McMaster-Carr.

    [​IMG]

    Grind the sleeve off the end of the pushrod and thread the exposed end with a 3/8"-24 die. Or buy some 3/8"-24 all-thread to replace the rod.
     
  10. Oct 23, 2010
    peterc

    peterc New Member

    So. Cal.
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    Yea...the socket in the fork "wore" through.
     
  11. Oct 26, 2010
    lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Huntingdon PA
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,437
    If you have a welder you may be able to weld a washer in place over the hole, then cut the slot into it... that would save the effort of dropping the drivetrain.
    Of course, welding in that position may not be easy if you don't have a hydraulic lift...
     
  12. Oct 26, 2010
    73cj5

    73cj5 Member

    Maine
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2004
    Messages:
    905
    If i were you, i would drill a 3/8 hole in the clutch fork where it wore trough.
    and use a Inline ball joint from mc master carr , part number 8412K46
    [​IMG]
    Then use a piece of 3/8 24 all thread and lock nuts to connect the two.
    10 bucks and you don't have to pull the trans to replace the clutch fork.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2010
New Posts