Rebuilding a 67 CJ5 V6

Okay people, after owning this thing almost 30 years, and rebuilding in the 80's its time again. The jeep hasn't started in 5 years and the first thing I find is the ignition switch won't turn. The orginal key is here but is doesn't turn the tumblers, I sprayed with WD 40, no luck.
Where do you buy the parts for these things now, I've been out of the system for a long time. The parts will have to be shipped to Canada...
Stay tuned, all suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Here are a few places to start:

http://www.universal5.com/index.php?option=com_weblinks&Itemid=4&catid=71

 

Have you ever tried a product called "BP Blaster". I was an advid WD-40 user until I found about this product on one of the jeep forums.

http://www.blasterproducts.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1

I bet one of your auto parts stores has it. Also would bet you a cup of coffee it will save you the cost of a new ignition switch.

 

Welcome to the board from southern california Spanner. your in the right place

 

Hello Spanner, and welcome from Ohio! Whar in Canada are ya, eh?

Not sure what you mean by "doesn't turn the tumblers". Can you be a bit more specific please? Do you mean that the starter won't turn? Is the ign switch making noise, but nothing's happening?

Did the CJ run before it sat for 5 years? Do you remember if it smoked or not? The answers to those questions will help us determine whether or not a rebuild is in order. Hopefully you've already drained and replentished all fluids, inc. gas. The ignition switch can be bypassed for the sake of troubleshooting....just grab a screwdriver, open the hood, stand/lean over the passenger side, and place the screwdriver on the starter solenoid so the hot side connects with the starter. See if you get juice there. If not, jump the battery and then try it.

Lots of ways to skin a cat. Good luck, and if it doesn't work out, come back with more particulars and we can help!! Pics (pictures) are encouraged. Good luck. :stout:
-Alan

 

yep! BP blaster is good stuff. I just bought a can 2 weeks ago when I was taking off everything from the frame. The checker auto was out of their generic penetrating oil (pyroil) I liked so much then was forced to buy BP buster (5.00 a can!!!) but well worth it! I did not have to do any work on my rusted old nuts and bolts at all.
I am now sold on the product.

getting back on the subject...
I would spray the inside of the plugs with some wd40 to loosen the rings a bit before cranking her over.. then do a compression test on the engine (compression test set at harbor freight is a good deal) ..
let us know how it all comes out
welcome

 

Spanner: On the key switch, your last pin is probably stuck and not letting the key go all the way in. Soak it good in your favorite penetrating oil and run the key in and out rapidly. It may work it loose.

 

FWIW

I just bought a new switch from Krage for $12.00.

If you go that route tell Krage before you order it that you need a washer for it because the thread depth is a little to long for it to snug up.

The Krage switch is exactly like the old one with the exception of the thread depth and on mine there was a simple plug in the rear. Just unplug the old one and plug in the new one.

 

I'll check this BP blaster stuff, if it beats WD 40 the first round of beer is Canadian.. I pulled the switch out, the actual tumblers are moving but the key won't turn. The plan now is locksmith? or whats this place "Krage". The switch has three threaded connections on the back and one more in the center of the back.
The last time the engine was going was with Mobile 1 oil, should I change all the fluids before I start or after the first start up..
Thanks to all

 

"Krage" www.jeepdoc.com
Yea go ahead and drain the oil and refill, b4 the startup. Its just cheap insurance.

 

Guys it's PB Blaster, it is a penetrating oil like liquid wrench.
WD-40 is a moisture displacement solution not a penetrating oil, hence the name Water Displacement formula 40.

 

Spanner: I absolutely agree--change all fluids before starting--filter too.

Mike: The absolute best penetrating oil I've found is good 'ol "Hoppy's #9".

 

What a selection of jeepsters.. If we need to do a complete history.. jeep was bought in Salem Ill around 1973 and when I moved back to Canada it came with me, engine was rebuilt @1980? with 40,000 miles. It was stolen in 1984 and some xxxxxxxxx drove it into a tree, bent the right bumper straight up and twisted to frame, I think. The engine was okay, replaced the radiator and fan blades, now the milage up to 77,000 miles, It went into storage until I decided to rebuild it, now. In the past I used it in the back country after the bumper was welded into place and the leaf springs rebuilt. Now I'll be looking for a ton of advise and direction,

 

Yep, that's the original switch alright. Heck even spray in a bit of B'Laster PB into the keyhole if she won't turn.

Spanner, just a point of clarification here: you rebuilt the engine at 40K miles, and are now considering rebuilding it again at only 77K miles? A good rebuild will last 180K. I'm curious as to why you figured in the rebuild at 40K, and even now. Do tell!

 

that might be a good idea to change the fluids I would think. Just wondering... are u sure you have the right key? I mean if everything is turning but the key is not..
good luck and keep us informed on whats going on.

 

All right found the switch in Belleville and just installed it, sprayed all the cylinders with WD 40 rolled the engine by hand, it turned okay. Ever heard of Automatic Transmission fluid in the cylinders to lubricate the rings before a start up.
Engine ran well before it got parked, so this isn't planning on a total rebuild, more likely body tub, brakes, steering etc.
Gotta work all weekend, no time to play,

 

Greeting Spanner, from the Mile High City,
As for changing the fluids, you might want to find some gas stabilized such as, "Sta-Bil" my dad bought a `31 Chrylser with 20 year old gas in it. We needed to start it up and move it. The guy at the parts store suggested that, and we followed the directions, the thing fired up on all 8 cylinders the first try. After running the car for about 10 minutes time on and off the trailer, we took the carb off and the slug was next to none. Also, try some "Sea Foam" gas treatment, this stuff rocks!

 

I Have A Boat Ignition Switch In My 1970 And It Works Just Fine Once It Is Wired Up And It Only Cost 3 Dollars But Thats Just Me

 

Welcome, best to drain all fluids and replace filters too. A squirt of Marvels Mystery Oil in each cylinder will lube cylinders before startup.