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Inspection - Parking/Transmission Brake

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by manganjb, May 17, 2010.

  1. May 17, 2010
    manganjb

    manganjb Member

    boston, ma
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Messages:
    100
    Ok, so a while back when I first bought the jeep (about 10 months ago) I bought a transmission brake. Since then I have been working on the jeep trying to get it up and ready. Today I went down to the Mass. State inspection and failed on less things that I thought I would! With Mass. being the way it is! One of the things was the e-brake. He said it has to hold at 1200 rpm. When I put the t-brake on, I was very careful to check the condition of the seals and put some sealant on there ... 9 months later it's leaking... although not much, and just enough that if you give it a little gas the brake wont hold. (I just assume because it's a 40 year old jeep, it will leak).. My question is this ... if the pads have oil on them, can I soak them in brake fluid over night .... or will that not get all the oil out? Otherwise I could buy new pads ... The bigger question though, is will my t-brake be strong enough to hold the jeep at 1200 rpm even without oil on the pads? I upgraded to 11" brakes and I might be able to fabricate some e-brake system on that (although I think I ordered the one's without the e-brake stuff because I assumed I had the t-brake) ... thanks guys...
     
  2. May 17, 2010
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2002
    Messages:
    4,275
    The stock parking brake on my '2A will stall the engine if I try to move the jeep with it applied, if everything is working correctly it should hold at 1200 RPM.

    One of the places that gets overlooked is the splines on the TC output shafts. If you don't put some RTV sealant on them when you reintall the rear yoke wit will probably leak. Once you get that selae dup you cna try to clean the linings on the parking brake shoes with brake cleaner (not brake fluid! :shock: ) but you might end up having to replace the shoes. Also make sure that your drum is surfaced nicely, you can clean it up a bit by hand but usually you will need to have it surfaced on a brake lathe.

    Good luck! :beer:
     
  3. May 17, 2010
    lamar

    lamar Member

    greenville sc
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2004
    Messages:
    327
    When my e-brakes start getting where they don't want to hold to well, I usually take it down the road, pull up a little on the e-brake handle and let the friction burn off the oil. You will smell the oil burning off the shoes and when it cools down the brakes usually work fine, If they don't, I repeat it till they hold again. I have to do it once, some times twice a year.
     
  4. May 17, 2010
    manganjb

    manganjb Member

    boston, ma
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Messages:
    100
    so you guys think it's worth trying to salvage the t-brake ...?? I had looked into trying to instal a rear brake system on my 11" ... but I would need to drill a hole through the backing plate (the company I bought them from welded them up) and buy all the supporting hardware ... it looks like the t-brake shoes aren't that much ($30) ...
     
  5. May 17, 2010
    jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    Hermosa, SD
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2003
    Messages:
    8,526
    yea I would
    now that you know what the parameters of the test are.
    you might get away with just adjusting it tighter for the test so it will hold, regardless of the leak.
    unless he dinged you for the oil leak as well.
     
  6. May 17, 2010
    manganjb

    manganjb Member

    boston, ma
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Messages:
    100
    thanks guys ... yeah, I might just try to pass it for the test ... see how that works ... I'll just adjust the brake ... REALLY tight that day!
     
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