Rear main seal

Does anybody have the NAPA part # for a rope rear main seal. I have tried two of the rubber ones and it just cuts them in half. Is there a secret to this install that I am missing. The engine is a 1962 F-head 134.

 

I got the same year as you and mine is leaking too. Interested in this one.

 

You are getting the rubber seal from Napa?

In the past, others have had a hard time sourcing the rubber seal, and only the rope seal was available from parts stores. The rubber seal is generally considered superior to the rope seal. You will not be able to install the rope seal unless the crank is out, or unless you have a special tool called a "sneaky Pete."

For modern engines, the manual suggests that you loosen the main bearing caps and allow the crank to drop slightly so you can remove and install the rubber seal. Did you do this? Usually you have trouble getting the seal out, not putting it back. If you lube the new seal well, it should slide in by pushing it in with your fingers.

Don't know about the Napa brand; the usual brand available from independent shops is Felpro. The Felpro seal will come with instructions on how to install the seal.

 

I have pulled the engine three times and loosened the crank and installed the rubber rear seal. Each time it cuts in half.....sorta like the way a bagel is sliced. I know I am installing it in the correct groove.

 

The first two times I tried the rubber seals the last time I used rope.....and it still leaks bad.

 

Forgot to say the engine came from Jacksonville Naval Air station and only had 10.000 miles on it. Everything seems tight on the motor and it runs beautiful with good compression, etc.

 

Where was these seal made??
I've had problems with import rubber parts.

 

No idea where it was made. Were the originals rope or rubber ???

 

I just replaced mine last week. I bought a two piece Felpro rubber seal from NAPA, don't recall the P/N. The job was in an AMC I6 232 and although time consuming it was a piece of cake. I did as the FSM said disconnect the pass, side motor mount, drain then drop the oil pan, remove the rear cap and loosen the next. I used a 3/16" brass rod to drift the old one out, grabbed it with a needlenose then once well lubed (dish soap on the body of the seal and oil on the lip), finger pushed the new upper half in to flush. A little RTV on the seam section of the seal, replace the lower half, torque all to 40#, then 80#, and finally to 100#. Button it up with a new one piece metal reinforced silicon rubber pan gasket (also Felpro) and don't forget the oil. Total cost around $45, and time for this first timer was 6 hours over two evenings.

 

It's probly no the case but if it is new and leaks, than the most common cause is that the seal was installed backwards. Meaning with the lip facing the wrong way. Not that I would know this from personal experience
good luck