F Head Engine Q's

OK, got my engine up on the stand (thank you Arie). Started cleaning it up. And started really looking it over, and I'm new to the early Universals, so if these are naive, simple, or so on, bear with me.

After taking off the oil pan, this was laying at the bottom of it:
Any ideas on from whence it came? It's about an inch long.

1)


What is this threaded hole on the exhaust side? I'm thinking I at least need to put a bolt in there to block off the hole? there is a matching one on the rear cylinder / exhaust port area. Is there some type of ear clamp that help hold down the exhaust manifold that it's bolt goes into there, and I am missing said clamp?

2)


So, this is the fuel pump, is that one line that is underneath the return, from the carb or to the tank?

3)


What is this plate for, no one would have just stuck that on without any apparent use. Mind you, I have no filtering device, nor do I have the original oil bath air filter, so I'm running kind of blind here.

4)


Is this the original 6v generator, or did I get lucky and someone put in a 12v generator?

5)



Here's a for more overall pics, fill me in on what I got, what should be or could be upgraded.

I'm looking at those multiple external oiling lines, does anyone make original stuff for replacement, and how about them cannisters I've seen the black ones with i think an orange lid with a nut that holds on the top?

Is there really anyway to really run an oil filter on these engines?

Is the oil pick up in the oil pan a floating design, cuz mine moves up and down? Shouldn't it be fixed, and could that be an origin of the part in the first photo?

Is an oil bath air filter really OK for off roading, I ran those on the MUTT's as a Cav Scout years ago, but I am concerned about off camber situations and drowning the intake with oil spillage, or should I not be concerned?


In this next pic, what is the lower hard steel line supposed to go to (one goes to the carb, and the other / the one that goes to the fitting bolted to the intake)? Right now there is a small diameter nail plugging the line.

6)



The sensor on the lower right in this next pic, is that the oil pressure sensor? (below the oil line that feeds the head).
7)

 

1. hole is not used - blind, no bolt needed

1. I have no idea- maybe fuel pump eccentric/follower
2. bottom line on fuel pump = vacuum source for wipers
3. plate w/holes for oil filter canister- canister & lines avail here or Ebay

Oil bath is fine, if you get oil from the filter in the carb, you're upside down!!! On, and looks like you need to replace the oil line on the rear of the motor that goes to the head.

 

The piece of metal in the bottom of oil pan I believe is from your fuel pump.

 

its a 12v

 

The oil bath filter works GREAT in the off road enviroment. I'd use it over paper, foam, (and especially) gauze anyday. An oil bath filter does not start to restrict airflow as it gets contaminated with more and more dirt. I've taken my F-head 62 CJ up and down as steep of hills as it can climb (unreal), and it doesn't spill any oil. It especially won't spill any oil into the intake.

And, oil bath filters filter better than paper, foam, and gauze. If you're going to hit dusty roads often, it would definitly be worth while to find an oil bath filter.

 

Any recall on which wires go where, or what studs are what?

Thanks,
Mike

 

Thanks, you folks are a ton of help.
Mike

 

dont most heavy equipment use the oilbath?

 

Most older stuff does/did. Most of the newer stuff is paper unless you get to the really big stuff. All of my diesel tractors built since about 1970 use some type of centrifugal prefilter and then cylindrical paper element about 12 to 15" in diameter. I think the big advantage of paper is it is easier to design for high flow and much quicker to change out.

 

With regard to the hard line on the passengers side of the engine. As already mentioned by others, the top one is to carb, the bottom one is part of the vacuum system. Not mentioned yet is that the nail stuck in the end should be removed and a permanent plug placed in the T-fitting to seal off the end where the nail is. It won't run well if that is not sealed off!.

 

Yep, it's a mainanence thing that killed the oil bath. So much easier to change out a paper element than clean out an oil bath (solvents to clean out the element, waste oil to dispose of, etc). Those cyclonic prefilters are pretty great too. I know some desert racer guys that run those on their cars before going into a paper filter.

Like mentioned above, look at what all the heavy equipment use for filtration. This is equipment that cannot afford to go down for service more than it needs too or big money is on the line. Oil bath were standard for years, and paper with cyclonic prefilters have taken over. No foam, and you definitly do not see any gauze type filter on this equipment.

 

On mine the larger bolt (terminal) is the armature; there is an very small “A” stamped on the housing.
On the smaller terminal “F” is stamped.
Red- Generator Armature terminal
Green- Generator Field terminal
Blue- Generator grounding terminal

 

Ruger,

Thanks, I'll re-look at mine.

A = Armature
F = Field

The last car I had that had a generator was a '62 Lincoln.

 

i better plug mine then.