Brake line trouble

On my 69 CJ5 I found a broken brake line. It is a small line running to the rear. It broke ahead of a junction with an electrical connector on it near the trans cross member.
1) What is the electrical fitting for?

On the other end of the line it originates from a block just behind the motor mount. The block contains 4 lines, 1 large in 1 large out, 1 small in 1 small out.
2) Is this a proportioning valve or just a junction block? I cannot get the broken line out of the block. My trusty vice grip just turns on the soft brass. Ideas?

 

I don't know about the junction block, but the electric switch is for your brake lights.

 

If you can include a picture of what you're describing, it might help (especially showing the junction).
My '71 uses a proportioning valve similar to your description (but not exactly).

If vice-grips are being used on brake lines, it sounds like a last resort. If they really won't do the trick, I think you're resolved to cutting out the offending line and replacing it.

 

The line is already broken and needing replacement. But if I can't get it out of the block/valve it will need to be replaced as well (plus whatever other lines I wreck when taking it out.)

 

This works way better than vice grips.

 

If you've broken the line already, cut the tube close to the nut and use a 6-point socket and breaker bar to remove it. Hold the junction block with a big crescent wrench.

At worst, if the nut is too mangled to remove, cut the steel lines leading to the junction block and work on it at your bench. Some heat will help; penetrating oil, heat, more oil, etc.

Replacement brake lines are cheap and can be found at your local FLAPS. If you are lucky, they'll have the length you need, otherwise cut the standard sizes to length, flare the cut end, and bend as needed.

The regular vise grips will round off the flats on flare nuts. The nuts are hollow, and will distort if you squeeze them (this will also make them leak). Better to use a flare nut wrench and put a cheater pipe over it (along with penetrating oil, heat, penetrating oil, etc.) Never use open-end anything on a flare nut. Here's another thread about flare nuts: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15826&showall=1

 

I had the exact same problem on my '69.
I think the large brass block is just a junction block. I had to use heat to get one of the flare nuts off it. I used the oxy-acetylene to heat the flare nut up (not melt it off) and after it cooled I was able to turn it with a flare nut wrench.

Don

 

I used a Craftsman Pro flare nut wrench today. Not only did I round the corners, but my wife left me for the mailman. My house burned down and my dog bit my leg. I also wrecked my truck on my way to bail my momma out of jail. If only I spent the extra money for the SO line wrenches.

 

If this is the fitting, jeep calls it a brake tube tee (4way).

 

I would like to find out some information on this brake line switch subject. I have found two of these "brake switches" on my 1970 cj5



The one in the photo is above the front axle attached to the frame rail and looks like an original equipment installation. The second one looks the same but is tucked in the inner channel of the frame down where the Master Cylinder,clutch and brake peddles are attached. Its a PITA to get to. The second one isn't installed in the same professional manor and the forward one and may have been added by PO????

There are no wires attached to either one. What do these do. Are they for a brake idiot light? Why have two of them?

Also behind the brake peddle but not attached is a button switch that I believe controls the brake lights when the peddle is depressed.

Currently in the process of installing 11" drums and need to replace MC and brake lines as well. I want to know what I need for brake swithes.

Thanks

 

Those switches are for the brake lights. That was the original design, and they had a wire harness from the factory. There is one on the front circuit and one on the rear circuit. In theory, the brake lights will come on even if there's a failure in the front or rear hydraulic system. In reality, those hydraulic/electric switches don't work too well, esp after many years of service. Neither of those things work on my '71 model. There is no idiot light in the dash for brakes. The switch on your brake pedal is not a factory part, however it is more reliable than the factory plan. I use a switch mounted on my pedal, which came from a later model CJ.

 

Thanks for the responce.

So if you where doing a complete replacement brake job (lines, MC, drums) and not interested in restoration to original design would you just leave these original type brake switches out?

 

If there's a suitable threaded plug to replace the switch, then YES, I'd leave them out. Maybe your replacement line set won't even have this provision.