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Buick trans swap...

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Chris Insull, Dec 22, 2009.

  1. Dec 22, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    Seriously thinking about going from the T-14 to a BOP T-350 auto. Trying to get some input on what all is involved besides the x-fer case adapter and drive shaft changes. The trans I'm considering is from an '85 V-8 Cutlass... a rebuild would be a given. I've read thru some posts here, but truthfully am looking for some pics/ lesson's learned and OBTW fab requirements from folks who have actually performed this swap. TIA!!:)
     
  2. Dec 22, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I can get some pics of my Dad's tomorrow...Not much to it really...Don't forget a cooler.
     
  3. Dec 22, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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  4. Dec 22, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    Patrick, that's the shifter I am looking at, wish I could get it without the chrome though... A cooler is a must, and detailed pics of your dad's setup would be awesome! I would (probably) use AA for the adapter and new trans shaft; but any notes or hints would be much appreciated :)...
     
  5. Dec 22, 2009
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Make double darn sure it is in fact a TH-350 and not a 200r4. The 200r4 is an overdrive trans similar but much weaker than a 700r4 and is frequently confused with a TH-350. It came into play about that time. Easy way to tell is the TH-350 has a removeable 4 bolt tailhousing, the 200r4 does not....
     
  6. Dec 23, 2009
    SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    Bend, OR
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    I'd love to see any and all pics and info, too, as I'm seriously considering putting a th350 behind a newly rebuild buick 350 v8 I just bought to put in my Jeep!! Any specific cooler recommendations?
     
  7. Dec 23, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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  8. Dec 23, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    Good to know, Nick. I'm going to look at a trans today...
     
  9. Dec 23, 2009
    Wmi68CJ5

    Wmi68CJ5 Let the Sun Shine!

    Twin Lake MI
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    I used a B&M Quicksilver with mine that worked well. I used the novak adapter and had a little trouble with the front drive shaft and the pan wanting to occupy the same space. I had to do a little hammer tapping to make it fit but I think the problem arose from the d44 I used in the front that i think pushed the front end of the front dshaft toward the center a wee bit too much. Over all I like it a lot.

    A twin stick conversion would simplify things if you haven't done it yet.
     
  10. Dec 23, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    So, here's a list of parts required that I've come up with:
    Trans, torque converter (stall?), adapter, pilot bushing, flex plate, shifter, trans mount, new F/R drive shafts, cooler.
    I'm looking at both Novak and AA for the adapters and misc; the only difference I see is the AA kit comes with a new output shaft where the Novak kit needs to be ordered separately. Looks like minimal fab would be needed (trans mount/ trans cover mod for shifter, cooler mount), but until I've seen pics of a completed conversion I won't know for sure. Anything I'm missing? Preferences on adapter companies, and why?
     
  11. Dec 23, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Talk to Herm on the Adaptors - the quality can bounce between them and he knows them both. He also drop shipps and I have always gotten better prices from him than direct from Novak or AA.
     
  12. Dec 23, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    I guess the first step is looking for a trans, although I haven't fully commited to the conversion... Worst that will happen is I'll learn a bit!:rofl: I wanted to look at one today, but got off work too late and the seller works nights. Aside from what Nickmil posted about the 4 bolt removable tailhousing, anything else I should pay close attention to during the inspection? I was hoping to get one from a drivable vehicle, but this one is already removed...
    There's an interesting note on the Novak site: "Note here that automatic transmissions offer the benefit of gearing built into the fluid drive torque converter. One can multiply an automatic transmission's low gear by a factor of 1.5 to 2" Although I do understand what's being said, I'm curious as to the validity...
     
  13. Dec 23, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    It's valid - because the torque converter slowly locks up the tranny it's like slipping a clutch on a manual (not really, but the best way I can think of to describe it). I have several friends that run autos in thier crawlers (most are the 700r4 or T400s) and get a compairable 1st to about 5.5 or 6.5 to 1 in first gear to a manual.
     
  14. Dec 24, 2009
    SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit Member

    Bend, OR
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    how do you determine the further gear reduction, and what exactly is it based upon? I'm considering building the bop th350 also, for primarily rock crawling and trail riding, and would like as low of gearing as possible. Do I look for as low speed stall converter as possible? How do I figure the gear reduction in addition to the normal 1st gear ratio? I'd like as close to 2 as possible if at all feasible.
     
  15. Dec 24, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    Here's the Novak link I used, plugging in my data, including the 2.52 first gear ratio of the T-350 multiplied by the 1.5 factor provided in their note... If I do this swap, the crawl ratio will be a bit better than with the T-14.
    http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/gearing.htm
     
  16. Dec 24, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    Partially depends on what torque converter you use.
    The only real complaint my Dad has with his auto is lack of engine braking. Remember, the higher stall converter you use, the less low RPM engine braking you'll have.
     
  17. Dec 24, 2009
    Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chesapeake, VA.
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    Still trying to work thru the stall speed... Some of what I've been reading says to select a speed approx 500-750 RPM below the rated peak torque, which for a stock 225 is about 2400 RPM. Does a 1650-1900 stall sound about right?
     
  18. Dec 24, 2009
    Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Los Alamos, NM
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    I'd use ~1800..
    Dads was supposed to be that, but it's actually around 1400.
     
  19. Dec 24, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I know you have to be careful with the setup as if you don't your brakes won't hold you when you need them to. Buddies LS4 in his Scrambler - put too low a converter in it and with 4 way disc power brakes he can not hold it.

    Just a thought - I am not an auto trans guy so my info is limited to the guys I hang around with at times.
     
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