Buying New Axles, What do you think?

Hi All,

So I have run across a deal I think I can't pass up. What do you think and what problem could I expect. The seller is upgrading.

Front is a d30, 5.38s, warn hubs with spare set, lockrite locker, disc brakes. This was completely rebuilt in June '09 with new seals, bearings, calipers and rotors.
Rear is a d44, 5.38s, warn full float kit, detroit locker, 30 spline chromo shafts, drum brakes.
Both are 5 on 5.5 BP, narrow track axles, and set up for SOA

Mine is a (1973 CJ5, 305 Chevy, T15, Dana 20, 33x12.5 tires all else is stock).

The SOA is a question that concerns me. Angle of drive shafts after SOA, Low gear ratios with my T15 and the set up of the new disk brakes, Lines,Adapters.

My front R&P is busted and I don't have lockers front or rear, but want them.
I'm doing the math in my head and to do all of the above would cost me some $$$$.

Thanks for all advise.
Jonny

 

You sure you want 5.38's? They're really low. With a 3 speed tranny and assuming you keep your 33" tires you'll be almost redlining that 305 at about 50mph. Good setup for rock crawling provided you transport it on a trailer to the trail head. But very impractical for highway use.

You wouldn't have to be married to the SOA setup either, it's pretty simple to just cut and reweld the perches under the axles. These sound like really sweet axles, but pretty specialized for rockcrawling in my opinion.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking on the on the gears. Seems really low!
I could buy new gears or maybe get a 4 speed tranny but that's more $$$?
It's a pretty good deal on both axles with the lockers and all been re-done.
Just a bit confused??? Do you really think it would be close to redline at 50mph with the 3 speed?

Thank You!

Jonny

 

Maybe redline...

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

Wow that puts a spin on things! 50mph at 5000 rmp's.
Thanks for the Gear Ratio Calculator. If I put 4.56 - 4.88 I think the 3 speed, T15 would still be good, right? I just think the "deal" for a $1000 is pretty good. Add $350 for new ratio gears, still not that bad.???...???...

Know of any thing better?

Jonny

 

A 4 speed has the same final drive ratio, so that wouldn't help you.

 

And I just looked up 4.56 gears and 4WD.com says

"There is a carrier break at the 3.54 / 3.73 ratios. If you are switching from a ratio on one side of that break to a ratio on the other side you will need a new carrier to install the ring and pinion"

So I could not go back to the 3.73 (that are in mine now)in the "New Axles" with out the old carriers. What do you think about the 4.56-4.88 as a problem solver. Looks like a 4 speed still isn't going to get me to 60 without a ton or rpm's.

Jonny

 

I run 2700~2800 RPM with 4.56 gears and 35" MTRs at 60MPH. 4.10s would have put me back to stock ratios with the larger tires but I wanted a little lower gearing. the 4.10s would be a better fit with 33" tires.

 

Check your input again. I put in Warner T15, Dana 20, 5.38 axle ratio, and 33 inch tires and get Road RPM's (last table) of 3,561 in 3rd. gear at 65 MPH.

 

For a grand, grab em throw some spring perches on and run them. If its too low for ya then go from there. Unless you are commuting on the freeway for 50 miles, you'll probably like them.

 

NWEDGAR you are right!
I guess I put something in wrong. That's not to bad for running around town now is it? I'm pretty sure redline is at 5500 rpm's on a chevy 305.
You Just made my day!!! I guess if I didn't like it I could change them to a smaller gear ratio. I rarely get on a road around here that's 65mph.

Any other potiental problems or Good ideas?

Thanks!!!

Jonny

 

IMO, 1k for this axles is too much. I have less than that in my set of 44s, both locked, geared, axled and seals etc...
Deals are out there, but if you're changing axles, may as well upgrade.
Are the WT or NT?
$350 for new gears?????you doing the install and keeping the old bearings etc??? I can set up gears, but would gladly pay someone to set up gears R)

I know you can;t build them for what they are priced for, but you can find a better deal...heck, I got my 1 tons for less than that and just had to add a front locker and new stubs.

 

Ok well rain on my day.
I guess a few advantages for the price would be:

warn hubs with spare set (100.00+)
lockrite locker (252.67)
disc brakes vs. my Drum Brakes (703.99 or used ???)
new seals
calipers and rotors
warn full float kit(???)
detroit locker (667.99)
30 spline chromo shafts(370.00)
set up for SOA( shop labor or a kit ???)

I thought it was a pretty good deal.
I have limited shop space and limited tools.

Jonny

 

This is very subjective. Some of what you say is true but a LOT depends on location. Around here a stock Dana 60 front with lousy gearing is a good deal at $800 and goes up from there. In his case have you priced out a Warn FF kit? Over $800 and they are NO LONGER AVAILABLE. Add the price of 5.38's (only available aftermarket for the 30) Lockers (Detroit is over $500 by itself), brakes, Warn locking hubs ($130 set new and he gets spares) etc. and it adds up incredibly quick.
YOU may have been able to do it for less but certainly not everyone can. For ready to go axles with the kind of stuff that's there, $1,000 is a heckuva deal around here if in good shape.

 

So why are the Warn FF Kits not avaliable anymore? Something wrong with them?

Jonny

 

Warn Industries sold yet again and the new business conglomerate owners decided they weren't making enough profit on that stuff so quit the axle end of manufacturing. Randy's Ring and Pinion bought the axle stuff but is not yet producing the stuff.
There was nothing wrong with the FF kits they were selling. Very strong and well thought out. Just a business decision by people trying to line their pockets.

 

If you go SOA, what are doing about steering? Is the passenger arm already set up for cross-over? Since you are drum brakes now, and going to disc, you have to address that.....you'll need to work the rear driveshaft with SOA lift...etc..
you get the can of worms idea of what you'll be up against when you swap stuff...but it will be easier tan outboarding springs etc......I just prefer to make the upgrade a bigger jump, but it will be good upgrade no matter what you decide.

 

ok

 

Is the passenger arm already set up for cross-over? Help me out here?

I know I have to do a few mods like brake wires, steering, drop pitt arm etc..
Is it really that big of a deal to do a SOA setup?

Thanks for all the positive and negative feedback it really does help

Jonny

 

OK, heres how I'd do,, just my opinion;

get the axles,
cut off the SOA perches and weld them on for spring under (easy to do),
run 'em and enjoy 'em.

IF the 5.38's are too deep for you, an easy fix is to bump up to 35 inch tires, will help some.Other option is go for the 4.88's or even 4.56's.

I am running a ford 5.0, 4.56's and 35's and am at an even 3000 rpm on the highway at 70 mph. Decide on what you want to use the Jeep for, then decide on the axles is my advice.