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Soliciting Opinions on 75 CJ5 purchase

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by mrw, Sep 8, 2009.

  1. mrw

    mrw New Member

    Never mind the mixed up 60s jeep currently in my garage in various stages of completion.

    I found a 75 CJ5 with a 304 for sale. The guy started a frame off and got partially done (as we all can do) and now wants to sell it.

    He had the motor rebuilt supposedly, didn't get the tranny or xfer case done, they were working when the came out. Purchased a new frame, it has been sandblasted and repainted. Purchased a new tub, supposedly just minor rust below the doors, waiting on pics on that one. Frame is rolling on axles, they have been cleaned, painted and refilled. He said he hadn't done the brakes. Said he has all of the accessories off the motor and the radiator.

    It will require a new wiring harness, new clutch, plus all of the incidentals. He said he has tires that are 80% which prob means they are shot.

    He's asking $1200, says he has that in the motor alone and won't go any lower. I've looked at all of the data on 75s and it doesn't sound too bad, but wanted some opinions from those more knowledgable.

    Thanks, MRW
     
  2. nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    The "if's" have it...

    If the motor was rebuilt correctly,
    If the tub is new,
    If the frame is new, sandblasted and painted,
    If he has all the parts so that you can verify that they are all there,

    If this really means a potential trans/xfer case rebuild, electrical, clutch as the only major work, then...

    I would personally consider $1,200 an okay price. Of course, personal inspection goes a long way. Add to the price your time plus cost of major work left (~$200-300 for trans/xfer case rebuild, ~$200 clutch, $200 for wiring harness + accessories...all depending on what brand/labor you use). You'll be into about $2K when it's all said and done.
     
  3. aallison

    aallison 74 cj6, 76 cj5. Has anyone seen my screwdriver?

    I think it sounds like a good deal if what he represents is accurate. But why would a new tub have rust on it? Maybe a little surface rust but nothing else.

    I can tell you from current experience it costs a lot, as in boatloads, to do a jeep project. But then again, for 1200 to buy and another 2000 in parts and your time, can you buy a jeep for 3400 in as good a shape in your part of the country?
     
  4. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Sounds like the tub is "new" to this Jeep ... ie a good used tub.

    Look at it and see if it's a project you want to take on. Projects generally go cheap, but that's because there is more risk if you can't drive the Jeep. You also take on some risk when you commit to finishing this project.

    I would make sure it's really complete. IMO that's the main danger when you buy a pile of parts ... it's very hard to check that everything is still there. Bits and pieces aren't expensive on their own, but if you are missing a lot of stuff, the cost adds up fast.

    Also, many parts are not available for the Intermediate Jeeps, and there are a few things that could be missing that you will really need. Just off the top of my head: taillights, fuel filler parts, heater controls, stuff like that. Most can be sought out or worked around, but parts availability isn't nearly as good as for the '76 or later CJs.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2009
  5. mrw

    mrw New Member

    I mis-spoke earlier, the tub is in fact a used one, new to him. He said it also has a roll bar with the fronts on it(not sure what you call those.) He said it appeared to be a shop produced part, not a crappy garage weld job.

    I'm up on all the missing part stuff, I started my last one with just an engine and a frame, that was a very expensive proposition and i'm not finished yet.

    I just wasn't sure if a 75 was worth any more or less than normal. I know in every car there are more and less desirable years. It apparently has not been sprung over or hacked up, bumpers aren't welded on, etc. The power steering has not broken off the frame, the perches aren't broken at the frame, etc.

    All of this is of course hearsay, so i'll know more after looking. I just wish he wasn't 250 miles away from the house.

    He says he has the water pump tied to the frame at the moment to keep the motor from tilting back, so sounds like he knows what he's doing!!! R)

    MRW
     
  6. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    The good things about a '75 model are 1) this is still in the 'great transmission era' of Jeep, and a T-15 that comes with a V8 is the strongest 3-speed available. 2) A '75 is smog exempt almost everywhere, 3) open knuckle front axle, standard 4) 11" drum brakes, standard, 5) flanged Dana 44 rear axle, standard, 6) Saginaw steering, standard, 7) V8 engine available, 8) I think the intermediates drive better than the earlier models, 9) '75 is said to have a stronger frame than earlier years, 10) traditional Jeep dash, interior and "bus wheel" steering wheel, 11) first year for a fuse box, and wiring harness is a modern design 12) various upgrades from the earlier Jeeps, including rear mounted fuel tank, improved windshield and wipers, much better heater and defroster, etc.

    Likely more I haven't thought of.

    The '72-75 intermediate models have the major of the improvements that Jeepers were adding to their rides, prior to AMC buying the company. The ladder frame design is essentially the same as earlier years, except for the longer wheelbase and revised front crossmember. The longer wheelbase and longer front clip are mostly to accommodate the AMC inline 6s, which became the base engines for these Jeeps from 1972 on. It's understandable that AMC would want to adapt the platform to their engines; car companies spend a lot of money and time developing engines for their vehicles, and AMC would naturally want to take advantage of the engines they developed and produced in-house.

    In 1976, nearly everything was changed - this is the first year for the truly all-AMC Jeep design. In retrospect, the intermediates seem to have been something of a stop-gap design, meant to upgrade the Willys-Kaiser platform until the complete redesign was ready.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2009
  7. Sounds like a good deal of he's being honest with you and your up for another project.
     
  8. Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

    I have an intermediate and really like it, though I haven't driven it much. Immediately started working on it, but I've learned enough to know what I like and don't like (this is my SECOND intermediate project Jeep and I think I'll actually finish this one). I'd much rather have an intermediate than a late model.

    Here are things you simply won't be able to find if you're missing them:
    1. Windshield hinges. If you don't have uppers and lowers you CAN use later hinges if you change the windshield to later model also. This will require a change to a later model top, too. And of course all of the peripheral stuff like wiper system, hold downs. If you don't have them you'll have a hard time finding for a good price as they are getting scarce.

    2. Heater control cables and the plastic control panel under the dash. You might find some cables but won't find the plastic boxes without a lot of looking. Not a big deal. Get some better steel-wrapped cables from NAPA and mount through a piece of angle iron under the dash. No biggee. Won't be original but will work better and be stronger than factory.

    3. Fold and roll seats. Lowback folder for the passenger side are difficult to find in nice shape. No aftermarke exists for a fold and roll lowback.

    4. Front Y-pipe for exhaust. Who cares. Plenty of shops can make an exhaust system for you.

    5. OEM gages. Plenty of aftermarket alternatives but you probably won't find a 0-60 psi oil pressure gage or an original type ammeter. I don't know if the aftermarket replacement fuel gage or temp gage are direct replacements but you can make them work I suppose. Or get a complete speedo assembly.

    6. Original tail lights. Unless you're aiming for a true restoration who cares. Lots of $10 taillights that look close enough that 99% of the Jeepers wouldn't know.

    Other than that I haven't found much that I can't easily find used or decent aftermarket alternatives for. Nothing has been a showstopper. Engine parts will probably need to be ordered so it will pay to stock a storage tote with some common replacement parts like points, some gaskets, ignition module, cap and rotor... Any FLAPS can get you what you need in a day or two so unless you can't tolerate any down-time it's no big deal.

    Chilly
     
  9. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  10. Cantilope

    Cantilope Member

    Ooh nice find on those hinges!
     
  11. Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

    Wow, $195 a set! But available none the less. Good catch.
     
  12. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    found them while looking for wiper linkage.....
     
  13. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I think 4wd hardware sells the taillights.
     
  14. mrw

    mrw New Member

    Well, he called on Sunday, the other guy he had coming fell thru. My buddy lives close to him, he's going to go look this week, but if it's as advertised, looks like i'll have to rearrange the garage again. (and figure out how to post pics better.) He sent original pics, i'll figure out how to post some.

    MRW

    (and right at the beginning of deer season too!) So much to do, so little time.