66 & 70 aka Crusty and Rusty

Did I go wrong I paid $350 for the white 70 and I'm still working the deal on the red 66. They both run. Both have rust.

The 1970 has a Ramsey PTO and winch needs a handle and front U-joint on the PTO shaft. 373 gears and limited slip with flanged rear axle, lots of broken leafs in the springs, it has been drove hard and never put away!




I'll get better pics of the 70 up tomorrow. By the time I got a tow bar on it and tow lights hooked up to tow it my afternoon was shot


The 66 needs rewired, signal switch is missing has an ACME hard top. Offenhauser 360 intake (not the dual port) and new Edelbrock 500CFM carb. I don't know much more about it.









I have been looking for awhile and can't find a clean body so I'll use the 66 since it is the best of the two and fill in the missing pices from the couple of parted out M38A1s I know of.

 

I would love to have that hard top :twisted: Oh man would I love to have that top..hint hint.

Worth it just for the parts value if nothing else.

This thread will probably get moved to off topic section though.

I would take parts from the 70 (flanged axle etc) and build the 66. the 66 also has a later model windshield frame (note bottom mount wipers). the 66 I am picking up tomorrow has the exact same winch on the front as the 70. Does either one have the warn overdrive $$$

 

I have a couple of questions maybe someone can answer.

The 70 has factory back up lights, was it a dash switch or one built into the transmission?It has a spider web of loose wires.

Am I crazy to want to swap bodies to get the newer drive train into the 66 since its the one I plan on putting on the road? I don't know if enough changed from 66 to 70 to justify swapping them.

 

No over drive I have missed the last two that have shown up on Craigslist. They are still a hot item up here!

 

I can't be sure about the back up light switch. I will go out on a limb and say it is a switch on the trans somewhere..probably on the tower.

I guess swapping bodies would work too, as opposed to swapping drivetrain parts.

 

my t14 has the switch on the tower.

good finds.

 

That red one has newer fenders than the 66. The 66 didn't have the side markers in the fenders.

 

The factory back-up lights use a switch on the transmission top. They seem to break a lot. A suitable switch is available from Standard Ignition, NS-20.

I would pick the drivetrain with the flanged rear axle, better gear ratios, and posi in that order. These Jeeps often suffer from frame cracks, so I'd power wash both very thoroughly and choose the one with the better frame as the "survivor." Look carefully around the spring mounts, front and rear. I'd be particularly suspicious of the white one, since it looks to have been driven hard.

 

the red lookes good the white looks hammered but i love jeeps and keep on jeepin the 70 deserves a good home.

 

I'd fix both. I really like the character of the white one. I like the split windhield and what is that crazy snorkle? I also like the little foot rest on the side.

 

gotta agree on the white one, looks like it means business. btw we sure could use the serial and build date off the sticker on the 70's dash for the vin database

 

I'll get the serial number and build date for you in the AM.

 

the white one is the bomb ,,,, but I LOVE that just thrashed look,I personally would pass on the red one

 

The split windshield, is that a m38a1 or a early cj5? Can't tell, is it fixed or foldout?
Top wipers, so its early.
Are you sure that is a '66? tub and fenders are newer than that.

 

Windshield frame on the White 70 is a M38A1 still has the plauqe for the gas heater attached. It doesn't fold out someone just put a split wildshield in. It has a few other m38 parts and will probably get a few more. There are more of them around to get parts off of than CJs. I did check the frame rails to day after 2 hours with the pressure washer and I don't see any cracks. It does haves 5 or 6 broken leafs on each side in the rear. The floor boards and hat channels are gone and have been replaced with several sheets ofgalvanzied steel for floor boards. I have more into the tires and wheels than I do it so I'm happy! They make it look a lot tougher than it is. Oh the snorkel is plastic drain pipe not connected to anything I guess the battery got hot since it ends on to it's side....

Can't tell you much about the red one. Only thing I did was drive it around the block and verify the serial number matched the title. I was mostly interested in the hard top since the cheapest one I could find was $600 and in Fairbanks.

I only wish I could keep them both but one will have to go before October.

 

How do I tell what year the tub is? I figured the fenders and windshield frame where newer and fenders cut down. I didn't even think about the tub being changed out.

 

The primary indicator here is the location of the 'Jeep' letters below the cowl. Prior to 1972, 'JEEP' was in block letters, all caps. From 72-mid74 the letters were changed to a more script-like 'Jeep', at about the same location as the earlier block letters. Sometime in 1974, the 'Jeep' was moved lower on the body, to where you see it on the red Jeep.

 

I noticed the '70 doesn't have a filler neck for an under the seat gas tank. Was there a '70 cj5 tub without the under seat tank?

 

Yes. '70 was the changeover year for gas tank location.