Considering trying electrolysis...

I have an older gerry can filled with rust that I'd like to try to save. I'm considering electrolysis. Do you think it's worth trying to save it? I think it's an older US can. Would it clean the inside that good or not?

 

It will only take the hair off your chin.

 

Sammy,
I've used electrolysis to clean a lot of parts, and my experience is that it works very well. However, it is pretty much a "line of sight" type of process. The only way I could see it working on the inside of a jerry can is if you could place one of the sacrificial electrodes (I use #5 rebar for mine) inside the mouth of the can without it touching the can itself. If the electrode were to contact the can even the slightest bit it would eat holes through it. You might be able to insulate the electrode with a piece of garden hose to keep it from hitting the lip of the can, but I've never tried it before so I can't say for sure if it'll be enough/proper protection.

Not sure if you've seen these before, but here are a couple of links to some pretty good info about electrolysis rust removal. Hope it helps!

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

 

Andy, wrong kind R)
John, thanks for the links! They help a ton. Would it strip paint as well? I may give it a shot, it's scrap otherwise, so who knows? I'm thinking of a way to set the electrode in the can without "setting" it in. Hose may work, or slivers of foam.

 

I've heard that muriatic acid works pretty well , although I've never used it.

A buddy of mine would pour some in, swirl it around, let it work a while, and dump it out.

Take a look inside, and repeat if necessary.

Rich

 

kreem it.
http://www.kreemproducts.net/p-17-kreem-combo-pak.aspx

 

Nope, won't do much for removing paint unless there is rust under it and the solution has a way to reach the rust under the paint.

That's the beauty of this process. It's kinda like a Ronco Rotisserie, you just set it and forget it! R) You can't "over cook" parts since the process only attacks ferrous oxide and the sacrificial electrodes. You can leave your part in the solution for a couple of days without worry. This way if the part ends up not being salvageable, your only out two or three bucks and haven't put a ton of blood, sweat, and tears into it.

Just my 2 pennies.

 

I used electrolysis on the frame for my cj6. For inside your tank, there are kits with a cleaner and sealer. I have used it inside motorcycle tanks. I don't remember the brand name. It will clean the tank and coat the tank to prevent rust from entering fuel lines. Any shop that works on Harleys can find it for you. Avoid a Harley dealer.

 

por-15 US tank sealer works very well. Along with Marine Kleen and Metal Ready, 3 parts follow the directions and be amazed. I have used this myself on several tanks. The small kit for motorcycle tanks is perfect for early under-seat tanks and is about $40. Or buy the Qt. and do 3 tanks in one shot.

 

How about muriatic acid? Fill the can up with the diluted or not solution of your choice. Roll it around a bit now and again. Let it sit an hour, dump out the solution. I have cleaned much hardware this way. You have to wash it with baking soda water afterwards and apply oil or paint . It's chaep and easy to get at the local hardware store. Don't breathe it.

 

Easiest (and cheapest) way to clean rust from the inside of any tank or can-Throw a couple handfulls of gravel in it, get a pressurewasher (carwash) and have at it. The water pressure, rocks and sand will clean the metal very nicely, without denting or wearing holes in the can. Once it's clean, you can either dump some tranny fluid in to coat the inside, or keep it full of gas!