stretching a cj5 into a cj6

I am seriously considering stretching my 56 cj-5 into a cj-6. I like the way the cj-6 looks, I like the room in the cab , and I can stuff a modern drivetrain into it ( dodge 3.9 v -6 with an ax 15 5 speed and the d18 transfer case).
As I see it , I can add 20 inches to the frame past the trans crossmember, before the rear spring mount. Then the body stretch is just sheet metal work.
Anybody have an opinion? It's a crazy idea, but I can't get it out of my head.
The only hitch I see is the shifter locations , but I think that is doable with a little ingenuity.

 

I thought about it. Decided not to because of the framework. No real good reason just more then I really wanted to do.

 

I have had a similar Idea. My next projest will be a CJ-6. I have been obtaining parts. I came across a couple of Jeepster frames, just inboard the rear springs and you have a CJ-6 frame. At least that is what I've been told......... :twisted:I have another one...:twisted::twisted:


Jay

 

I don't hink it is crazy, I was realy close to this a while back. Heck I figure stretching my 5 would be cake after taking my 3/4 ton Dodge apart and stretching it 16" to make it a crew cab

If my CJ5 doesn't find a new home in a couple months I will most likely be stretching it to make room for a 455 and a real back seat.

If you are up to the sheetmetal work, then go for it, heck add a couple inches to the door too if you are over 5' tall while your at it.....

 

Yes, shifter does not change.

The Jeepster frame is different from the CJ-6 in more ways than just the outboarded rear axle, AFAIK. I don't know the specifics - I'm not even sure that the rails are the same. Just FYI.

 

I agree.

 

Pretty easy. I did something similar, but lengthened it in the doorway because I did not care about doors fitting. I just had a fab shop bend some C-channel exactly the right size to slip over the frame rails. I had about 6 inches of overlap. Make some diagonal cuts in the ends of the new piece to make your welds are even stronger. Put some bolts through the two pieces and tighten them up before you weld everything in place. I left the bolts in for extra security.
I also used sheet metal from a donor jeep to weld in where I lengthened it.

 

I am putting in a longer transmission , the ax-15, and the shifter is farther back on it. The transfer case will bolt up to the end of the tranny, and move those levers farther also. Why not buy a cj-6? Find me one, at the price I paid for my five , with the frame in good shape, and I might think about it.

 

Saw a Canadian sand drag racer (years ago) lengthen a 5 to a rear engined 6 by using a chunk of 2x4x1/8 tubing, all joints staggered and overlapped, joints boxed, THIS unit ran VERY fast!!!! The body was custom made alu., but hey, it's just sheet metal, right! And what's 20" of refer sheet?

Dale

 

Thanks for all the replies. I cut Betty in half tonight and tacked in the stretch. I used 4x4 x .250 box tubing, cut it lengthwise and tacked it into the clamped up frame that I set to a 20 inch spread. I have to finish weld it and weld in the splice plates, then box the open side. I feel very good about this mod ,and the tubing with the boxed open side is a dead match for the original frame. Thanks again for helping me make a descision!

 

Where are you located in PA? I have a 1975 CJ5 frame that's already cut by the PO. I've been kicking around what to do with it.

 

Got any pictures of your work?

 

Not yet. I will post full pics as soon as I get in a good spot to do so. I have had some folks ask me about the disc upgrade , so I will post that at the same time. I put discs all the way around, but I didn't use the GM mounts. I live in southeastern PA, amish country.

 

I stretched my 56 CJ5 sssh don't tell anyone
when I cut the chassis I cut it at 45 degrees, so the welds in the top and bottom flanges aren't in line, I had a C channel section bent up to the same size as the chassis rails, the joins had a 45 deg weld prep, and were welded from the inside first with a stick welder, and then the backs of the welds were cleaned out with a 3 mm disc, and the outside was then welded and ground flush, whilst all this was going on the chassis was clamped up square an a homemade jig.
I then had a C section bent up that was a neat fit inside the chassis rails, and proceeded to box the chassis along its length as far as the front and back cross members.
all holes were welded up, and just before finally sealing it, I threw in a wet steelo (not stainless) this is supposed to rust and use up all oxygen an so prevent any further rusting......
chassis has had no cracks after 10 years
the body work was similar, had some infill sections bent up with the same top profile as the tub, the cut was just behind the door opening, vertical, abt 4" then diagonal and vertical again for another 4".
I'm happy with the result,
note if you widen the door opening it will preclude you from using standard doors and top

if you have done heaps to your jeep already, and we all know you never get your money back if you sell, it's a good way to go

keeping the chassis straight is the hard part