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Front cross member...bolt or weld?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Sharps45110, Mar 2, 2009.

  1. Mar 2, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

    4,000 ft above...
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    I have a '66 CJ5 that a PO has "frankenstien-ed" the front cross member.
    At this point, I'm going to cut it out and replace it with some square or rectangular tube.
    My questions:
    1. Would it be better to box the frame and weld the new cross member to that?
    2. Not box the frame & weld the cross member to the frame web & flanges?
    3. Not box the frame & bolt the new cross member to the frame web & flanges?

    Or a combination of these three choices.

    Thanks,
    Lee
     
  2. Mar 3, 2009
    bkd

    bkd Moderator Supreme Staff Member 2022 Sponsor

    K-Town Tenn.
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    IMHO you would be best off just bolting it up to the original frame. If the cross needs to be removed for tranny repairs, or damage from the trail having it welded solid would be a pain.
    Jim S.
     
  3. Mar 3, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    Sorry, not the tranny cross member, the front (below the grill).
    The PO installed a Ford V8 and cut the top half off it and welded an angle onto the remainder.

    I'm going to go with a Saginaw box, so instead of modifying (again) the cross member, I'm just going to start new.

    Lee
     
  4. Mar 3, 2009
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    You don't need to modify the stock crossmember to do saginaw.
     
  5. Mar 3, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    You do to do it the way I like - box up high. I weld the new cross members in.
     
  6. Mar 3, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    You're right, I should have clarified my plan.
    I want to sleeve the steering shaft through the front cross member to keep the box as high as possible.

    Lee
     
  7. Mar 3, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    I assume that you say "box up high" you mean the steering box....

    Do you box the frame (weld a piece of 3/16" or 1/4" flat to the inside) and weld the member to that (the inside face)?
    Or do you just make the member go all the way to the "upright" (outside) leg of the frame?

    Lee
     
  8. Mar 3, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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  9. Mar 3, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    Looks like you used a combo of both weld to the boxed frame and weld to the "upright" frame leg.

    I was just wondering if bolting the cross member in would allow the frame to flex just a little and prevent cracking. The old cross member is riveted in.....

    Lee
     
  10. Mar 3, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    I have not had any crack with the boxing in that area. I also put a channel in the front (bumper area) to stiffin the flex you get with the box. You would be surprised at how much the whole thing will flex with just the box in it.
     
  11. Mar 4, 2009
    Mcruff

    Mcruff Earlycj5 Machinist

    Albertville, AL
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    The reason I always question this is that the AA mount gains you 1 1/8" in height over a standard setup like mine. Not really much of a gain for all the work needed, especially when you consider that the drag link is still hanging down the same distance to get caught on what ever. I have never caught my box on the 1st thing in the 3 1/2 years I have had it done, the springs and shackles would be ripped loose or dragged on 1st.
     
  12. Mar 4, 2009
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
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    Would you like to have a crossmember look like original one? I found one from the engine cradle of a Chevy Asto van. I just cut the section out of the middle.
     
  13. Mar 4, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    That's a good idea, but this project is far from "stock".
    I will have to make an "L" shaped member to get clearance for the new radiator.
    It's also going to be moved forward an inch or so because it looks like the fiberglass body and fenders are a touch longer than the steel body was.
    With the SB Chevy (V8) in the front, moving everything forward a bit is not all bad.

    Lee
     
  14. Mar 4, 2009
    Sharps45110

    Sharps45110 New Member

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    You're right about the possibility of damage. (or lack of)
    I'm not worried about tearing the box off, but I think that running the steering shaft through the crossmember is a neat and tidy install.

    Lee
     
  15. Mar 4, 2009
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
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    Mike - I usually add a spacer that lifts the bracket from it's 'normal' place. I am pretty sure yours would work as well for that.

    My one experience with ripping one off was enough to make me real nervous about ever letting that happen again. The jeep slid back off a ledge and caught the box. Took us 3 hours just to get the jeep out of the obsticle enough to leave it and go get parts (17 miles of hard 4X4 then 36 to town). Even using 6 Bats to stick weld things it broke 3 more times trying to get it back out the 17 miles to a trailer.

    Never again - besides, I've done it so many times now it's not that much extra work to me :)
     
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