Front Driveshaft rubbing starter

I recently purchased a 66 CJ-6A, It has the dauntless, 3spd on floor, and single stick transfer case. It runs, but needs plenty of work. I pulled it in the garage last night and crawled under it with sufficient light for the 1st time last night. I noticed a shiny band around the front driveshaft and a corresponding spot on the starter/bellhousing where it has been rubbing. They are separated by about an inch, but I assume rub with a passenger aboard. See attached pic.

I don't know what is causing this, but I believe I have two clues:

First is that it appears someone has lowered the t-case/transmission crossmember and put a wood block b/t it and the frame See pic 2.

Secondly the driver side framerail is about an inch shorter than the pass. side at the front bumper.

Are all of these problems possibly caused by bad springs in the front? I plan on looking at my dad's 55CJ5 to see where the geometry is off, but in the meantime any input is appreciated.

 

I'm not sure about the V6, but with the F-head it shouldn't rub even if it's sitting on the bump stops (don't ask how I know). I would think the V6 would be the same. The t-case spacers may have actually been put in to try and correct the problem. Raising it up would increase the angle the driveline sits at, bringing it closer to the starter when the suspension is compressed (I think). Check your engine mounts...maybe it was a swap someone did, and they didn't get the engine high enough. Strange problem for sure.

 

They should be the same length. I presume you used a tape and measured the length from the front crossmember? On the pre-72 CJs the front bumper serves as something of a crossmember IIRC, and was originally riveted on. Somebody could easily measure either the distance from the bumper of from the end of the frame horn and you could tell if it was cut off.

Pics would be good.

 

For temporary purposes do a shakle lift to the front.

If the engine was stock-- then you need new leaf springs

 

I had the front ds rubbing the starter on my v6 before I put on the lift springs. I think the old springs sag with age and there's just not much clearance. New stock or lift springs would solve the problem.

I've read about original equipment wood blocks but I'm not sure if these could be the ones talked about before.

I didn't know that the single stick t-case lever went back to 66?

 

Appreciate the replies.
More info:

The CJ-6A (Tuxedo Park) in 1966 came with the Dauntless and a Single Stick T-case. I was told the engine is not original but that it was the same vintage 225 Dauntless.

I believe the saggy springs and possibly body may be the reason. The driveshaft angle at the front U-joint appears to be opposite of what it should be, as if the camber was off on the front axle, possibly due to spring failure. The front spring packs have 10 leaves, which I believe is right for the V6, but it may have had a hard life.

 

I had a 69 CJ5 with the V-6. It had a snow plow on its whole life. The shaft rubbed the starter until I put new spring on it. No more rub.

 

Mine also rubbed before I changed my front springs. My Dad used to make a two piece drive shaft for these that used a small carrier bearing off the bell housing. That puts your pivot point right under the starter. Sort of a cool fix but adds a U-joint to the front drive shaft. If your pinion angle is pointing up towards the engine chances are pretty good you are overdue for a set of springs. I have a stock set I ran for 1 year before I switched to YJ front springs if your interested in a cheap used set.

 

My 66 CJ5 has the same wood blocks on either side between the cross member and the frame. Looks to be stock.

 

INFO POINT ONLY:

All CJ5s with the V6 had the single shifter D18 transfer case. :v6:

 

My dad bought the jeep I am rebuilding right now brand new; CJ5 w/225. He said from the day it was new, the drive shaft rubbed the starter and bell housing. He took it back to the dealership and they put some kind of shim in it. I am assuming it is on the Transmission cross member you guys are talking about. Oddly enough, it isn't on the crossmember now.

 

I purchased my 1968 Buick V6 powered CJ5 in 1971. It was original then. It had 4 - ¼ inch steel plates between the cross member and frame spacing the transfer case down that amount. The second Buick V6 Powered CJ5 I had was a 1971 it had the same spacers.
The issue was clearance in the front. It had less clearance when I did Chev V8 conversion to the earlier jeep. I won’t do that again there are better jeeps to put V8’s into.

Jim

 

My 66 has the wood blocks and single stick.

 

If your front leaf springs are OK, check your motor mounts.

 

I put a chevy 283 in my m38 in the late 70's and am doing a frame up on it now. Had the same problem with the front drive shaft rubbing on the bell housing. I know that the info I got off this forum, over a year ago, was to use end caps from steel pipe, drill a hole in the cap and use as a spacer between trans x-member and frame. Thats what I have done and now have the needed clearance.

 

Just an observation, It may not change the rubbing problem but in the photo it looks like the front drive shaft is installed backwards...........maybe it does not matter but I thought the slip joint was supposed to be towards the T-Case, On the high end of shaft angle to help keep grit and stuff from working into it.