Another Paint Question

I know this has been discussed to death because I have done a search on the subject but I'm still having trouble determining the stock color of this beast. I have looked in the "autocolor library" and there chips don't help much. What I have is a 71 CJ-5 w/225 and there is a sample of the color in my webshots below if you can find the one with the firewall it is a light green or turquoise in color not the darker blue that the PO painted. I am trying to get the code number so that I can order some paint online.
Thanks for any help, Jeff[/img]

 

Looks like it may be "Foam Green". look at Tuesday's useless thread and see if the pic that Boyink posted looks like a match.

 

I posted some paint codes for 1971, 1972, 1973, at:
http://community.webshots.com/user/jpflat2a
this info has prob already been posted or is available elsewhere
to use, find you 3 digit code on your metal paint/trim code plate on firewall
match 3 digit code to chart
some of these were special order/special use
some were much more popular than others
the 71 and prior codes are approx 2 1/2 pages, then 72 and 73
codes are given both for laquer and enamel
hope its helpful info

 

Jeff: If it was a turquoise color. The 1971's were "Island Blue". My CJ was originally Island Blue. Good Luck, Glenn

 

I am not a professional auto paint man. However I just painted my 56 Willy’s with the original “Comet Blue” color paint. I went to my local ABC auto parts paint store, and they called a color lab who looked it up and gave them the formula.


They had several grades of paint they could mix it in. I opted for a cheaper base coat. It was $56 per gallon. This along with the hardener and reducer kept my price to about $85.00 I used the recommend method of mixing in a hardener, and was extremely pleased with barn painting results. This is the 3 rd jeep I have done. It gets easier each time. And I would put mine up against a MECCO paint job any day.

Call any of the auto shops and see where they mix their paint. They should be able to get you the same color.



I know you didn’t ask, just wanted to offer a couple of quick painting tips. I remove my hood, fenders and grill and paint them separately. That way it is easier to paint the fire wall and the inside of the fenders. A quick and easy masking method for the motor and any other parts you do not want to paint is to use aluminum foil. I also painted my gear shifts and steering column gloss black before painting the jeep. I also covered them with foil. This is an old trick I learned from my antique tractor friends.


Regards
Cliff Todd

 

Below is the website of the place I mentioned of whom I was very pleased with their help and results of getting my origanal paint 1956 WIlly's paint color. Might want to call them. I bet they can help you or tell you who to call.


http://www.abcauto.com/high.html

 

Thanks guys, I picked up the paint today($135.00) that was for paint catylist and reducer which is about a third of what Finishmasters wanted I brought my dash in as a sample and they matched it pretty good as I wanted a solid color instead of a metalic.
I too figured it would be easier to take it all apart to paint I just started to put some of it back together I think i'll hit the grille and the fender wells then bolt it all back and paint it all without the hood as it still needs some dent repairs and it will be easier to do with them attached. Now it's back to work,thans for the help.

 

If you shoot anything with hardener, be careful not to breathe it or get it on your exposed eyes or skin. Hardeners contain isocyanate - search for "isocyanate safety" and you'll find lots of links.

As I understand it, the exposure is cuumulative. You'll probably be ok with occasional exposure, though some people react allergically to the overspray. Still, it makes sense to cover yourself completely and wear a new respirator that covers your face. 3M sells some disposable respirators and Tyvek suits that work well.

 

More about Isocyanates:

The following health effects may occur immediately or shortly after exposure to isocyanates or mixtures
containing isocyanates:
• Allergic sensitization – a person becomes allergic, this could appear as wheezing, shortness of
breath or coughing
• Irritation of the eyes and lungs
• Upset stomach, vomiting
• Possibly fevers
• Stuffiness of the nose
• Sore throat
• A feeling of tightness in the chest
These symptoms may be delayed up to eight hours after the person has been exposed.

The following long-term health effects may occur at some time after exposure to isocyanates or mixtures
containing isocyanates and can last for months or years:
• Permanent breathing or chest problems, including asthma, even when no longer exposed.
• Increased sensitivity. Severe asthma attacks could result if a person is exposed again – even at
concentrations below the established limits. Once sensitized to isocyanates a person should not
be exposed to any concentration and should not be allowed to work where he or she may be
exposed further.
• Repeated or prolonged exposure of the skin to isocyanates may cause a skin rash and cause an
allergic skin reaction.

From a Washington State "Hazard Alert" http://www.lni.wa.gov/wisha/hazalerts/March2003HazardAlert_Final_.pdf