spring plate questions, bolt hole size/spring clearance

I am continuing to evaluate every aspect of the 'things the DPO touched' as I work toward saving this 74.

I believe I am correct in thinking the STOCK U bolts were
7/16 front for d30
1/2 rear for d44 ?

If this is correct, I received this 74 with an upgrade with free bonus headache. The front holes were re drilled to 1/2" IN my previous thread on 'lift hades' I mentioned splayed U bolts as one of may many issues. My helper springs, which cross referenced to a 1.75" width but were really about 1.95 wide, of course didn't fit between these holes. The stock spring, after rust was an actual 1.6x wide.

I've ordered new springs, and I have some concerns, one being the fact the width variance may or may not fall into a favorable situation with regards to the spring plate holes clearances. The other aspect is the kit comes with 1/2" u bolts again.

I have a few questions.

1) Is is acceptable and more desirable to retain the 1/2 size Ubolts and if needed mill the spring plate holes elliptical to allow perpendicular orientation/spring clearance?

2) does there exist a used or new source for 7/16 holed spring plates to allow the differential 'natural' clearance due to the smaller U bolt diameter to be restored?

3) is it correct the rear of a 74 stock, used 1/2" U bolts in the rear, or will this circumstance exist on both ends of the Jeep?

My fear is I get springs and they measure say 1.85 on the very edges instead of a real 1.75, the enlarged holes already reduce the stock clearance to allow for a 1/2" ubolt, but essentially even less space for a spring to live.

I'm still new at this, and checking around I don't even see the 72-75 spring plates around, nor do I find information concerning the front/rear stock ubolt sizes to determine if this is to be solved on both ends of the jeep or purely the front.

TIA
AL

 

Not sure about some of your questions, but look at either 4wd.com or Jeep Essentials for the spring plates. One bit of advice that I ran into when installing my new lift kit was one ubolt was wider than the rest. It goes in front on the passenger side on the inside of the spring on the pumpkin..

Good luck,

High5

 

Please privde link for 'jeep essentials' as quadratec is found instead.

The only POSSIBLE after market solution I found so far is warrior products U BOLT SKID PLATES listed as
72-75 CJ5 and CJ6 item 1710 front
70-75 CJ5 & CJ6 item 1720 rear

This makes an assumption they are already 1/2 (or larger) and drilled appropriately.

They are also 'more than I need'. for the most part.

This Jeep will see only minor offroad duties, gravel roads, occasional snow storms, light mud, maybe an easy trail. The plates certainly won't hurt, besides my wallet. If I would only need them for the front, it possibly worth it for a superior install though.

 

Even if you get 7/16" bolts with the kit, you can source the 1/2" u-bolts at the parts store. They'll be fine - no problem. The 7/16" bolts would probably be ok too. You're supposed to use new bolts regardless.

Spring plates are difficult. No one that I know of is making plates to fit the intermediate Jeeps. The earlier plates will have the shock bolt on the wrong side of the axle and different tube diameter (I think). The later plates will be wider becasue wider springs were used. You will find that parts availability for the intermediate Jeeps isn't great...

The side clearance for the bolts/plates isn't a "precision" fit, but it isn't sloppy. When you torque down the bolts, they hold the springs and plates with a lot of force, and any minor side-to-side clearance will not matter. There's also a locating pin on the plate and the pad that centers the spring, preventing lateral motion. Unless the plates were butchered, you should be fine. Bolt it up and test it.

 

thanks for the info, the kit will come with new 1/2 u bolts.

I tend to really analyze things in minutia, and I apologize ahead of time for it.

warrior does make 'expensive' skid plate U bolt plates for these listed above. They are 80-90$ for each end.

I will plan on using the 1/2" in the plates I have that have been evenly drilled and mill for spring clearance and perpendicular u bolts if I must, since properly done the u bolts won't be able to move due to the other u bolt, and proper torque anyway, and IF the spring is 'too wide' by a small fraction, inboard movement will be impossible anyway.

Basically my concern was for a 1.75" spring, drilling them lager just lost me a bit spring clearance inboard at each hole, enough. If the springs come in at an actual 1.75-1.80ish, I should be fine.

Thanks for the patience for the newb!

 

Re milling the holes, don't make them elliptical - they can be circular.

If you get 1/2" bolts and the axle uses 7/16" bolts, you an either buy 7/16" bolts the right size or file out the plates. Filing out the plates would not be a tragedy ... 1/2" bolts will be stronger and likely will be more widely available.

Make sure your new u-bolts have the same inner diameter (ie fit over the axle tube tightly) and then file out the holes to 1/2". File on the outside edge of the holes to make the holes circular, not elliptical. Got it?

 

I understand, thanks.
The stock spring plates are redrilled on the same center from 7/16 to 1/2 already. I may need to do what you illustrate above additionally and unfortunately make the holes larger than 1/2 slightly, DEPENDING on the accuracy of the new springs when I get them. Although I see that is probably not ideal, with 100lbs of torque there properly applied, everything should be ok.

 

You got the gist of the problem, I'd say. I went through the same issue with lift kit. Came with 1/2" bolts, and if you simply overdrill your plates to 1/2" half of your overdrilled hole is inboard toward the leaves so it will cause the u-bolts to be splayed out at the top. Milling 1/2" holes as per Tim's illustration will work fine. I opted for the Warrior plates which are pretty nice but I wanted the job DONE, not messing around looking for a Bridgeport that I could use. If I had a mill in my shop and a 1/2" end mill I'd have milled them. Also, my shock studs were pretty ratty so I would have had to do even more work on those plates.

Chilly

 

did the warrior skid plate spring plates (wow that's a mouthful), solve this by their design?

Will I have this issue at the rear as well, or was that 1/2 UBOLT stock?

I'm going to opt for milling if required to save money for now, if I have to wait a while for my parts and the caster shims Mcruffis making me right now, I might just go and order a set of those also, especially if I only need them on the front.

Thanks alot everyone. Looking forward to getting her on the road without putting all my might into just driving straight.

 

Although I don't have a manual in front of me, the torque for spring u-bolt nuts should be in the 40-50 ft lbs range.
Maybe I am misreading what you are saying as well.

 

sorry for the inaccurate statement.

 

Another (hopefully helpful) comment - even if the holes were drilled out to 1/2", if you then file the outer edges of the holes so that the u-bolts fit tightly but aren't sprung by the plate, the u-bolts will be held securely by the plates and the axle tubes. They may only contact the hole in the plate on one side, but there's plenty of steel there, and they don't normally move around. In your situation, I would file the plates just enough to fit, and use them.

 

Thanks, I will do that, as new warrior plates are 180 bucks for both ends.
I want to avoid this:


that's the rear, so this might happen on both ends depending on how wide those springs come in at in actual width. May turn out to be a non issue, but I just wanted to be informed to faciliate gettingher drievable where I can then begin to focus on the rest of the 'DPO" issues.

 

I think the rears are 1/2" from the factory - not certain though.

 

they probably are. That's a 2" wide helper spring that was supposed to be 1.75" wide (a slight defense for the DPO) that he 'made fit' with grinding lousy notches in the inboard side of each helper. That is what inspired my concerns that the replacement springs may exceed 1.75" wide as well, but hopefully they do not. In fact it won't be an issue at all unless I am forced to deal with nearly a 2" wide spring.

I think the helpers were mislabled or just plain came out wrong, or perhaps a 2.25" wide spring that came in too narrow and got labeled as a 1.75". We'll never know, and they will be nothign more than a lonely spring in metal pile now.

 

Here's another source for some beefy spring plates. You will need to weld on shock mounts though.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/plates-series-p-129.html

 

Warrior product plates on my 73 fit just perfect with my 2.5" lift kit springs (came with 1/2" bolts all around). I figure the WP plates saved me $100 of aggrevation, $40 of inconvenience, and added $40 of function. Didn't like paying the $180 but I'm long over that pain and now and I'm happy with the results.

 

LOL, I hear where you are coming from, opportunity cost..............