New Axles

Hey Guys! After leaving the 3A in mothballs for a year, I'm back on the job. However, I've been wondering more and more that now that I have it torn down, would it be smarter to put it back together with more modern equipment? The frame and springs are ready to go, so my next step towards creating a rolling chassis is dealing with the axles. Do you guys have any recommendations as far something thats a little stouter than the 27 and a little easier to service that the tapered shaft 44? I'm just about done with putting new bearings and seals on the 44, and I'm just wondering if I'd be better served to find something more modern and spend my time making them mate up to the frame...like axles from a Wrangler or something. Any input you guys could offer would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

I think I'm going to shop for a widetrack dana 44 / dana 30 combo from a late model cj for mine when I start working on it again. My only problem with the wrangler axles is that you'd be stuck with the unit bearings in the front axle (which means no lockouts) and a weakish dana 35 rearend. Just my 2 pennies worth.

Good luck with it! Gman

 

Hmmm...could be a case of " mission creep".The stock axles will probably be okay for moderate use.You could look for an early 70's D-44 with flanged axleshafts and a D-30 for the front,this would still look somewhat stock but have more solid components and give a tighter turning radius.It kinda depends how you are going to wheel it. What you got in mind?

 

Moderate use would be a good way to describe it, I just don't want to be in a position to have to shy away from trails or situations because I feel like my equipment isn't up to it. Or worse, like I won't be able to drive it home afterwards. Good point on the Wrangler axles gman, what years were those wide track axles available? That would also give disc brakes, which is something I want to do as well. I'm not really worried about keeping it stock, I'm more concerned with capability and reliability. And to be honest, I don't want to have to take that tapered axle apart EVER again

 

Wide track will give some additional stability but depending on the tire size you will want an appropiate lift to keep the rubber out of the rear sheet metal on full flex. Decisions,Decisions

 

Wide track axles will require a swap to a Dana 20 T-case since they will be centered rear diff and your 3A has a passenger side offset rear diff.

 

I'd think the 27/44 combo would be fine for general trail use. More power and bigger tires will make it more likely you'll break something, but mostly it depends on how you treat the equipment. I would keep the scope narrow and get on the trail - drive it and if you break it, you'll know what you need to improve, and you'll have gained valuable experience and had fun in the process.

 

When you start making axle changes, you pretty much should be thinking about what you want to do with the entire driveline and vehicle. You do not want to do anything twice.
If trail riding is your main thing, and you want to do hard trails, them maybe you should look into getting another vehicle. We all love the old Jeeps. But in reality, they are not the best starting point for a heavy duty trail vehicle. I would pick anything (any Jeep) from a CJ-7 on.

 

Thud.

 

:iagree:

 

Well just for the other point of view. I had a friend that wheeled a 2a with a v6/t90/d18 running stock 44/27 locked on 35"s .I think he did do the FF on the rear. He did all the 3-5 rated trails and no problems, well except for when he rolled it. . In fact someone else is now wheeling it. And 4Wheeler mag did a stock 3a called Colonel Mustard to run Moab. Just another point of view. Maybe wheel it first then deide. Axles are fairly easy to swap after it is running.
Keith

 

^
Flyingtim:
Edit--- I just realized that you already have the Jeep apart. Which probably means that you will just make your changes. So....Just try to keep flanged axles in the rear like you said. I do not see any need for a full floater. And in the front, stay away from closed knuckle. I agree that the 72-75 cj axles upgrade is probably the simplest. But you will still need to add disc to at least the front.
If you don't mind going 6 lug, there are many more possibilities. I think there are some wagoneers that have an offset flanged model 20 rear, and a 44 disc front. Some of the front pumpkins are on the wrong side though. I forget all the details. Also the Isuzu Amigo has a 6 lug centered rear 44 with factory rear disc. All are about Wrangler width I believe.
It is all a lot of work. Lots of possible combinations.

 

I run Stock dana44 and a "crappy" dana25 in my cj3b with 32" super swampers :v6: and have never had a problem. Stick with the stock axles especially since you already bought the bearings etc for the rear. Put the entire project back together and wheel it! If you actually succeed in braking an axle then go shopping for a Dana30 front and a flanged 44 from a '71 cj5. You'll be fine with the 27 and 44.

 

Thanks guys, I apprecite all the helpful info. Sounds like running what I have to start with is the way to go...quit thinking about it and just build it

 

just FYI - No offset Wagoneer 20s that I know of. The '74-79 Wagoneer with Quadratrac (BW1339) ran an offset Dana 44 rear. From '80 on, the NP transfer cases have a centered output as I recall, and the rear axle pumpkin is more-or-less centered. Also, the Corporate axle used in the Wagoneer and J-10 from '80 on (sometimes called the M23) is a much better axle than the CJ 20, and does not deserve to be tarred with the same brush as the CJ 20.

The CJ-7 from '76 to '79 was offered with an automatic and Quadratrac, and uses an offset CJ Model 20 axle. These axles have a terrible reputation (maybe not entirely deserved), and you could likely find one for cheap. I don't know if anyone makes replacement 1-piece axles for them though.

 

Four examples:

CJ2A Dana 25 front, 41-2 rear. Original flathead engine, 7.50 X 16 aggresive tires. LOTS of banging around off road, admittedly limited by power. No axle issues.

CJ5 Dana 27 front, 44 rear. F-head engine, 7.50 x 16 directional aggressive tires. Performance same as above.

CJ2A axles same as first one, only 289 Ford, C4 automatic, 32 inch tires. Mild off road, lots of tire chirping on the road. No axle issues.

1949 pickup, not sure of front axle, Timken rear axle; 327 / 350 hp (approx) Chevrolet power. 15" Firestone Town & Country snow tires. Almost no off road, significant showing off on road. Broke rear axles at the inner spline many times. Never an issue with the tapered end. Destroyed the front differential once burning all 4 tires on pavement. (Okay, I was much younger then).

 

I agree with that. If you end up being hard on parts, then change them.

Timgr- You're right. That is what I was thinking of, the rear offset 6 lug 44.

 

I wanted to keep it close to original looking with an update so I found a narrow track 30 that had discs. it's previous owner had also upgraded it to the same 5.38's that were already in my 3A so I've got the tapered 44 in back. if I can ever find a flanged one I'll change it out or when it gets destroyed I'll switch to a D20 and a centered rear... maybe...